I was listening to my friend about her truck and knowing a little more about cars than her I drove it and I'm out of ideas.
Once started, it idles rough like a harley but doesn't stall. Start moving and when you slow down to stop (anywhere under 10 mph) the rpms drop and teter around 500. I tried to drive with both feet to keep the rmps up until I came to a complete stop, but it still stalled on me twice. She had a tune up and thinks they changed the plugs, airfilter, oil. Fuel filter is new. Then they told her they didn't know what the problem was. Then took it to midas and they said it has something to do with the vacum being absent (is that physically possible?) and it would be a $600 fix. Any ideas???

 

Now I know there are some smart bastards in here (actual or self proclaimed) does no one have any ideas on what this could be?

 

Ya, the problem is F O R D

 

F O R D = Fix Or Repair Daily

But try resetting the ECU
And make sure sure the MAS adapter is plugged in

 

sounds to me like the same problem i had with my f-150. at least in my case the problem was that the tranny had been seriously ****ed up. i would have someone check that out. if that is the problem i wouldn't rejoice because it's going to cost a pretty peeny to get it fixed. hope this helps.

 

Does it feel like it is making normal power?
Are there any CEL lights on?
Is it the 300 cu in 6 cylinder or an eight?
What kind of mileage are we talking?

Okay at the top of my list is the following:
EGR valve is stuck open, truck will run like **** like that and generally hesitate on accel too.
Who put the plugs in and did it do it before the "tune up"?
Spark plugs are fragile and easy to break the porcelain if droped.
Easy to spot a black like on the porcelain where the crack is.

Assuming everthing is in place, low vacuum is caused by the following.
A leak somewhere in a hose or the power booster for the brakes, etc.
Valves not seating properly or burned.
Low compression in the motor.

I'd look at the EGR valve and then put a vacuum gauge on it and see what it is reading. The needle should be steady and around 15 to 20 in Hg. Varies depending on the engine, etc.
Any chilton's manual will give you a description on how to read a fuctuating gauge to understand what the problem is.

A compression test is a good idea if it has high miles.
If your real ballsy you can pull 1 plug wire off and see if it makes a difference in how it runs, then put it back on and move to the next one. This will tell you if you have a weak cylinder. If you've never done this before, you may not want to. Often you will get shocked if you don't do it right, and yes you FEEL it. If you have plug wire pliers you can do it, just need to put the end of the plug wire up to the block so the spark returns to ground. Otherwise it is bad for the coil.

Well it's a start. Provide some more information about the truck if you can. And yes FORD does suck.

 

Hey, I'd never drive the POS. I like german and jap cars.
It's the tritan V-8, displacment unknown, 130,000 miles. The same feeling before and after tune up with new plugs. Power seems normal above 1500 rpm just ****ty below and at idle. I had no compression in one of my galant cylinders a year ago and that made a constant ****ty feeling(2.4L), this is more of a surging **** like a harley. So i was thinking compression or maybe some dirty **** in TB. I'm going to try to reset ecu and bring her idle up a little tomorrow and see what happens.