It hasn't been 4 months yet but you know me guys, I have no cure, I just can't live a damn car alone. My car is fast as it is, it feels neck snaping fast but not fast enough for me .

I am ready for another transformation, it is going to be either a few bolt-ons or simply the S/C. I did my research but really want to hear your opinion.

Option A(N/A) is:

Agresive cam,ported intake manifold,ported TB and ported heads and custom tune(in addtion to existing header and air intake)

Typical dyno numbers are 560-600whp with 515-545lb-tq ish (depending on the chosen cam)

Option B(FI) is:

New version Vortech V3(self oil containing unit) or ATI procharger, both at low boost(4.5-6psi) and tune

Expected power around mid 550whp/low 500lb-tq

Option A(N/A) pros:

No overheating
No boost leaks
a bit more "bulletproof"
It does not hurt the traction that bad since the power is typically at mid-high rpms

Option A(N/A) cons:
Choosing the wrong cam setup and being stucked with whatever setup you get

Option B(FI) pros:

A lot of power with just one single mod

Option B(FI) cons:

pricy,at least around $$7500 (S/C, labor, tune-dyno)
It overheat by blocking radiator(proven)
It overheats A/C significantly(proven)
traction worsen , miserable

Current mods: headers(with cats),air intake,tuned for 91oct,160degree thermostat

Thanks for your time.

Carlos

 

option A

 

option A (N/A)

 

i love boost but with rwd car like a z06 it turns into useless power until your up in the gears on the parkway...especially since there is not many sticky tires for out back...I say NITROUS...1000 bucks and you can easily spray a 150 shot on it...they love the spray...and it will be a much more reliable car that has plenty of go when you need it...guys are trapping well into the high 130s on spray...

 

I thought about NOS but that is one of my last resources. Yes, I have seen it in action but the LS7 block does not take much abuse at all(thin block walls).

It is basically guaranty to run mid 130's traps but kind of risky as well. My own opinion has been inclined towards the N/A, Lingenfelter has a CNC cylinder head job that eliminates the hand portion. Another thing about me is that I alway aim for 91oct, that is another reason why the N/A is more appropiate.


Carlos

 

I am a big fan of it as its only used when needed, unlike other hp adders that add constant strain, but you also need a better clutch because of the added torque as i don't think the stocker holds up that long to nitrous...

 

Fortunately, the oem clucth is very cheap, the entire assy for $599(everything). Exedy also just released their twin disc and RPS also has stuff for it.

I also believe that perhaps the new LS9 Clutch(ZR1 engine) should share dimensions with the Z06, transmision and exhaust are the same so far..

Carlos

 

i wasn't aware of that...thats pretty sweet...

 

Forced induction is a big no-no on the LS7 without doing some internal work. I would do just the regular bolt-ons and call it a day and save all that $$$ and hassle. You'd have 500whp at a safe and reliable level...how much more do you need for a street car?? If you went the forced induction route, in the end you would have an unreliable car that just smokes through tires and has loads of useless power. The Z06 is a great car but if you want to make insane power in a straight line you should've got a TT Viper. I've seen two modded Z06's blow up on the track that were making 550+whp with bolt-ons and a cam only. The LS7 is best left untouched (besides basic bolt-ons) IMHO

 

I am glad I am getting your opinions. My first choice was N/A bolt ons for the same reasons you mentioned.

The very thin walls of the LS7 block aren't boost friendly, 4.5 to 6psi is the max boost recommended for the stock internals, once that is reached there is no other but to do a full internal job and I simply don't have that kind of money.

I have a very important meet on Saturday, someone that has a C6 Z06 fully built with forged pistons and running 15psi on a ATI procharger and methanol, is not like I am going to duplicate his setup(lack of money and interest) but I want to see first hand how bad the traction gets.

One thing though, your 500whp estimations are vastly underrated, with the above mentioned mods the power starts at mid 550whp, I am not trying to bench race, but I want the people to know that the N/A bolt ons actually make as much or more than a simple S/C kit and no other mods.

By the way, don't miss this new color(Graphite Gray), you might want to consider:

http://www.edmunds.com/apps/vdpconta...otoId=20234247

http://lgmotorsports.com/gallery/thu...s.php?album=12

Carlos

 

My 500whp estimate is based on the assumption that you do only true bolt-ons meaning headers, intake, tune, ported tb & intake mani. If you throw a cam/valvetrain in there your looking at about 530-560whp depending on how aggressive you choose to go. With a set of ported race heads you're looking at around 580-600whp and at this point you're taking real risks running the stock internals IMO. Keep in mind, I've witnessed three LS7 failures at the track. One was bone stock and lost oil pressure, obviously causing the motor to go. I think it was a freak accident but it goes to show that even at stock power levels things can go wrong, regardless of harsh driving or modifications. The second one was cammed, pushing about 550whp and the thing grenaded on the straight in 4th gear. The guy said he had only about 2k miles of hard (HPDE/Auto-X/drag) driving with the set up before it failed. The third example was fully built, pushing an easy 650+whp and it blew up at the NASA event last month at Infineon Raceway. Bottomline, if you mod that thing I'd be careful and ready to pay. The Z06 is a GREAT car, and I'm still seriously considering buying one for myself, however modifying them is less than ideal based on what I've witnessed

 

Voted for bolt ons. But I think that you should honestly do whatever is easier to reverse and get your money back out of the parts. Most of us buy and sell cars after a few years and we all know how hard it is to get decent money out of a modded car. I actually am not willing to pay as much for a modded car as I would for a stock vehicle because of the possible abuse the vehicle took. Safe, reliable, efficient is the way to go imho.

 

Do the bolt ons or option C, APS twin turbo set up, twin side mount intercoolers. http://www.airpowersystems.com/corvette/z06.htm

That would be awesome, but realistically on that car, do the cam, head, etc, it's proven. So you sticking around local or headin out west, Ill be home in 3 weeks, so we need to hook up.

 

Vote for bolt on here.

 

Thanks for sharing your ideas guys! The car was finished two days ago. I went N/A and the final numbers were 560whp/510lb-tq on a dynojet on 91oct.

The car has tons of torque and plenty of horsepower but my choice of cam was a bit agressive for my driving style. Despite reading other Vette owners saying that they love this cam it doesn't mean you will like this cam(my case) . I am taking the car back to put the stock cam. I will probably loose 50whp and another 25-30lb-tq but for me driveability is paramount.

What others might consider street driveability "not a problem" for me refined power and power delivery is something that I value. I will post the new numbers after I get the stock cam back in.

Carlos