What changes do you need to do if any after intalling medium to big cams like the Kelford 272. They usually take less timing specially during boost and high rpms. But what about the cruising part of the timing map. I mean areas lower than 120 load on the map. Do they need big changes? Right now I am running them almost stock except higher timing at idle (maybe too high because I sometimes get a P0300, currently running 9* at idle) and some changes in the spooling area. Anyone

 

I haven't changed mine at all around cruise, seems to be fine (altho I have disabled the p0300 test in the periphery). Fuel economy was around 26, which isn't great but I also did some high speed runs too :-D (this was on the interstate)

 

How much timing at idle were you using before deciding to disable P0300? THat would be my next step if going to 8* does not fix the P0300 issue.

 

It is so funny that so many people can "tune" for big power and no one tunes for drivability. For many of us our car is more than just a track or dyno queen. We drive them like they are mean to be driven and do so in all conditions.

Modified cars need attention to more than just the power areas of the fuel and timing tables if drivability is a concern. When tuning, idle and cruise are just as important as the pull area for a vast majority of evo owners.

I can't count the number of "tunes" I have helped to fix because the "tuner" did nothing to modify the tables for the cruise sections.

Paul

 

We have tried the 8* at idle, and it still throws the P300 code. I am pulling timing in midrange at 50 ~ 120 load running 2.7k - 3.4k rpms. I am running the Kelford 272's as well.

Tuning in for I have the same interest as the OP. I am currently on 7* of timing in the idle area.

 

So you were getting the P300 code with 8* at idle but not with 7*? I notice that I only throw the code when the car is let idling for a while (jam or if you stop and talk to someone with the car running). If I have to go to low to get rid of it I may just disable it.

 

Yes, I am running 7*, no, it still throws the p300 code with the idle. I have also scalled the maf, etc. Chances are your p300 code is being thrown while cruising, not at idle. The reason I say this. I drive 45 miles one way every day to go to work. I log while I cruise. I account for several log entries with knock averging 8 count, but only for a few log entries. All the others are zero knock. Happens when you fluctuate throttle +/-5%. This is in the RPM ranges 2.7k to 3.4 k. When these knock entries are logged, it still doesn't set off the CEL. I stop at work, and let the car idle, like you said about pullijng over, and then the CEL light will go. I check the logs, and no knock prior to the CEL code in the log entries, within reasonable time, etc. I hope that makes sense...lol. There is discussion about this an phantom knock. Supposedly it can be tuned out, but it is a pain. I am hoping we can find an answer...lol.

I am also on PSI/ECU Based boost control.

Hope we can find it...lol

 

If you are still throwing a P0300 code why are you using 7* of timing and not going any higher? Higher timing its suppose to give better idle on moderate to big cammed evos.

 

mine is idling at 17* and no P0300, but this is on HKS 272's

 

Amen

 

a tune.

 

wow 17? that is a load of timing

 

21* and purrs like a kitten.

 

why too much timing at idle? a little loping is not bad, too high EGT is not good.

 

Paul, you should start tuning for a business.