Disable paddles?
Disable paddles?
Any easy way to disable the paddle shifters? Easy, like pulling a certain fuse or disconnecting an easy to find connector etc?
I'm getting unwanted shifts during rallycross competition because one of my hands accidently hits a paddle. Sometimes I turn on the wipers too, but that doesn't kill my times like coming out of a slow corner only to find I'm in third.
If this problem seems odd to you, then you probably don't rallycross. Hopefully for the next event I'll have them both shut off.
I'm getting unwanted shifts during rallycross competition because one of my hands accidently hits a paddle. Sometimes I turn on the wipers too, but that doesn't kill my times like coming out of a slow corner only to find I'm in third.
If this problem seems odd to you, then you probably don't rallycross. Hopefully for the next event I'll have them both shut off.
Any easy way to disable the paddle shifters? Easy, like pulling a certain fuse or disconnecting an easy to find connector etc?
I'm getting unwanted shifts during rallycross competition because one of my hands accidently hits a paddle. Sometimes I turn on the wipers too, but that doesn't kill my times like coming out of a slow corner only to find I'm in third.
If this problem seems odd to you, then you probably don't rallycross. Hopefully for the next event I'll have them both shut off.
I'm getting unwanted shifts during rallycross competition because one of my hands accidently hits a paddle. Sometimes I turn on the wipers too, but that doesn't kill my times like coming out of a slow corner only to find I'm in third.
If this problem seems odd to you, then you probably don't rallycross. Hopefully for the next event I'll have them both shut off.
Don't need to disable anything and the car is still functional
if you didn't have any useful information to help out another member please refrain from derailing a thread with your own opinions.
OP your question is interesting, I'm subscribing to see what comes out of it.
OP your question is interesting, I'm subscribing to see what comes out of it.
And I already rock the seatback forward as much as I can stand for better visibility. I think moving the wheel closer might cramp my style.
If I can't disable them, plan B might be to physically secure them with temporary struts, brackets, duct tape etc to where they don't easily move. But that's tacky...prefer a more elegant solution.
Something short of selling the MR, buying a GSR, just to prove I AM a real driver even if it makes me slower.
Can't think of a purer "sports car".
The # of gears doesn't really matter. All that matters is the ratios. If the ratios are well matched to the engine and intended use, nothing else really matters. For some, this means competition, not shifting so much, etc. For others, a higher cruising freeway gear is important.
Having said that, I chose the MR not only because of the incredible transmission, but because the GSR only had 5 speeds. The gear ratios, in my opinion, are well-chosen for competition (and longevity), but the lack of a cruising/overdrive gear for highway driving pushed me to the MR.
No question the GSR will out-launch the MR each and every time. I've never used the 'secret' launch mode because of reports on how hard it is on the tranny and my launches are pretty pathetic. Fortunately since we launch on torn-up dirt, you can't put all that much power down anyway, so it's not a big disadvantage.
And the SST has known temperature issues with heavy use.
And supposedly no one will work on the SST. They just replace it.
And it costs like $8k. And Mitsu may choose not to honor the warranty if they can come up with an abuse claim.
I'm not 100% sold on the SST. But it seems to work well for what I do.
And the SST has known temperature issues with heavy use.
And supposedly no one will work on the SST. They just replace it.
And it costs like $8k. And Mitsu may choose not to honor the warranty if they can come up with an abuse claim.
I'm not 100% sold on the SST. But it seems to work well for what I do.
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No question the GSR will out-launch the MR each and every time. I've never used the 'secret' launch mode because of reports on how hard it is on the tranny and my launches are pretty pathetic. Fortunately since we launch on torn-up dirt, you can't put all that much power down anyway, so it's not a big disadvantage.
And the SST has known temperature issues with heavy use.
And supposedly no one will work on the SST. They just replace it.
And it costs like $8k. And Mitsu may choose not to honor the warranty if they can come up with an abuse claim.
I'm not 100% sold on the SST. But it seems to work well for what I do.
And the SST has known temperature issues with heavy use.
And supposedly no one will work on the SST. They just replace it.
And it costs like $8k. And Mitsu may choose not to honor the warranty if they can come up with an abuse claim.
I'm not 100% sold on the SST. But it seems to work well for what I do.
Yeah, that gets it done. Gotta link to those parts? But two things: Airbag and driving position. I'd want to keep the airbag -- does the aftermarket wheel accept it?
And I already rock the seatback forward as much as I can stand for better visibility. I think moving the wheel closer might cramp my style.
If I can't disable them, plan B might be to physically secure them with temporary struts, brackets, duct tape etc to where they don't easily move. But that's tacky...prefer a more elegant solution.
Something short of selling the MR, buying a GSR, just to prove I AM a real driver even if it makes me slower.
And I already rock the seatback forward as much as I can stand for better visibility. I think moving the wheel closer might cramp my style.
If I can't disable them, plan B might be to physically secure them with temporary struts, brackets, duct tape etc to where they don't easily move. But that's tacky...prefer a more elegant solution.
Something short of selling the MR, buying a GSR, just to prove I AM a real driver even if it makes me slower.
I would assume that cutting them paddles off is out of the question....
You could dissassemble the wheel, and remove the paddles..
You could disconnect the plug that goes to the paddle shift switches, ref this drawing:

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Finally something on topic. Thanx.
So if I read that right, the CPU connects to the paddle switches and the switches ground the CPU signals via connector C-207 when the shifter is pulled. Disconnecting C-207 should just prevent the circuit from reaching ground when the paddle is accidently struck. Doesn't seem like it should hurt anything and ought to do what I want.
Is it difficult to locate or disconnect the connectors? For example do they carry the connector number on the body? Do they have those tricky latches where you have to bend something one way while you disengage somewhere else, etc.? Is C-207 out in the open, or do I need to remove plastic panels or something? I can probably figure all this out myself, but it never hurts to hear from someone who's already been there.
So if I read that right, the CPU connects to the paddle switches and the switches ground the CPU signals via connector C-207 when the shifter is pulled. Disconnecting C-207 should just prevent the circuit from reaching ground when the paddle is accidently struck. Doesn't seem like it should hurt anything and ought to do what I want.
Is it difficult to locate or disconnect the connectors? For example do they carry the connector number on the body? Do they have those tricky latches where you have to bend something one way while you disengage somewhere else, etc.? Is C-207 out in the open, or do I need to remove plastic panels or something? I can probably figure all this out myself, but it never hurts to hear from someone who's already been there.
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