Kozmic27 do you advocate the mineral oil flush even if the tranny has only ever had the proper Dia Queen SSTF-1 oil in it? Or is only a drain / filter / fill required if the tranny has only been serviced with the correct Dia Queen? Thanks.

 

How do you get it into 6th without driving it?

 

If the transmission has had the proper fluids in it, then the mineral flush is not required. Its never a bad idea, however not required.

With the car on jack stands/or lift with all 4 corners up and the ASC off, you can shift through all the gears. ***Make sure the car is VERY secure before attempting to roll it in the air***.

 

Easy

 

Sorry, my fault. I was referring to a "power flush" type of service operated through a machine. I am aware of, and have employed, the method you mention, just didn't think to consider it a "flush" while I typed that up for whatever reason.

I'm not even sure what you are trying to say. "Worked as a mechanic for a few years"? If your previous experience as a mechanic has left you with such vast knowledge of "how it all works", then you would know exactly what I was talking about when I say that 90% of the time service writers have little-to-no idea what the hell happens beyond their desk. Clearly you don't understand how this all works, despite your heightened income.

I absolutely don't trust the word of a service writer, ever, when it comes to describing what is actually happening to a vehicle in the shop, and it has nothing to do with going to a better dealer. Do you know the #1 reason most service writers are service writers? Because they couldn't cut it as a tech. Period. And when they're not immersed in the field, on the actual cars and doing the work, they lose the majority of whatever knowledge they previously possessed. Then they find little bits and pieces of whatever they hear from the techs to grasp onto and cling to it dearly so they can still sound believable when talking about cars.

Another thing you do not understand is that performing this (or any) service on one's own vehicle does not only save money, but it is also very rewarding and often can be somewhat "therapeutic" for many people. I can afford to have my vehicle services performed for me, too, but I choose not to. It's often a matter of preference. Ever heard the expression "built, not bought" it means a lot to many of us.

Speaking directly to a technician was a good decision on your part, but the fact that you didn't bother to gather any actually useful information really makes your posting entirely useless, aside from attempting to swing your virtual nuts around: "I spoke with the tech and he explained the flush and machine (removed fluid...)" ok, so does a vacuum bleeder, so does opening the drain plugs, how did this help anyone? "I didn't go examine the flush machine" ok, so again, no actual information, we just need to trust you that it's legit? "I know the tech and the guy doesn't skimp..." oh, I see, we're supposed to trust the guy we've never met because he's a badass mechanic. "I didn't ask about levels, but you know what, it doesn't matter, because the problem is fixed" more unanswered questions, and even a declaration of your apathy regarding the original topic, which you brought up, aimed at helping others with a similar concern to yours.

Thank you for your wonderful contributions to this community.

 

have there been any improvements on the 2014 or last 2 years? all gear ratios the same? anyone sell a taller gear for 6th on the mr? i'm at like 3000rpm doing 70's thats so high it makes it a little annoying to cruise.

 

It needs to be high so people dont load the cylinders at a low rpm exposing the rods to extreme pressures for a long duration when the crankshift is only spinning at say 2000rpm which it what causes rods to bend. On the SST I guess you have the automatic kickdown to protect the engine unless it will let you floor it in 6th in manual mode and not kickdown, then yea, lower gear ratios would just lead to more bent rods due to ignorant drivers.

And it's really only 2884 rpm at 70mph in 6th on the sst so that's more than low enough already. Maybe even too much.
GSR 5th is 3255 rpm at 70mph for comparison.

 

The Ralliart 5th and 6th gear are taller. You would need a donor transmission as they are not sold separately.

 

Dealership by me quoted $525.00 just for oem filter & 8l of daiqueen.

 

I don't suppose anyone knows the part number for the filter. I remember there was a post here a while ago about Volvo having the same filter at a cheaper price if I'm not mistaken. Any intel would be super awesome.

 

As found on the other Forum, the Volvo part number for the filter is:

31256837

Here's a link to one of the cheaper vendors I found that carried them for about $43. I haven't used this info yet, but I need to buy one soon so I'd appreciate feedback also if the above info is correct.

http://www.jimellisvolvoparts.com/p/.../31256837.html

 

Warning, if you have a volvo part in the car, and it acts up and you go to the dealer with it, you are SOL with your warranty.

I recommend using parts only.

 

The dealer would not be able to tell the difference the filters are all the same.

 

Why would u use a ford,volvo trans fluid thats not made for evo x.?Its prob gonna f-it-up.I wouldnt do it.Use what mitsubishi made daiqueen.I use them redline MT85 for lanevo.

 

This. The filters are branded EXACTLY the same, there are not vehicle manufacturer specific markings, only filter manufacturer markings.