A couple of years ago I messed up my SST at the track while going around a turn (traction control off and rear right wheel had lifted and SST died when the wheel came back down). I had taken pretty good care of the SST and changed fluids more often than needed, never launched, etc. Car then would only go through even gears and to make a long story short, I eventually had it sent to Kozmic. IIRC, the fork was damaged and needed [costly] repairs. I had them do the repairs and opted to upgrade the clutches to steel figuring those would be better. After months and thousands of dollars, I finally get the car back and started running into issues.
The tuner I was using is top-notch and I had been using his tune for years on an AP with minor mods (UICP, 3-port) and zero problems and had taken it to other tracks with no issues at all.

So what was happening is that when I would go WOT, it would get to around 6kish rpms and/or when it would upshift and suddenly go into limp mode and wouldn't engage in any gear and give all the service tranny lights. First time it happened, I pulled over, turned it off and then back on and all CELs, etc went away and it drove fine. I contacted Kozmic about it and they just pointed the finger at the AP and said it needed to be OS and placed all the blame on the tuner and were of no further help. (nobody from Kozmic had notified me or anyone else about not being able to use an AP if you upgrade to steel clutches). So I had my tuner do an OS tune and we spent a number of hours street tuning it, but of course it was mostly single gear pulls. It redlines just fine in any single gear, but would die when hitting 6kish rpms or around when it was shifting in the high rpms. As a last resort, tuner suggested having the dealer do a teach-in, which I had done, but that still didn't fix the issue. Car is currently at 65k miles.

Does anyone have ANY idea what the problem could be or has anyone had similar issues? TLDR; broke SST, Kozmic fixed/upgraded clutches, when stepping on it and hitting around 6k rpms/shift point, it goes into limp mode, but is totally cleared up after restarting car. Shifts just fine through all the gears during daily driving as long as I'm not stepping on it.

 

Something similar it's happening to mine. The SST just disengage (can't even rev). I want to try to flash a stock map but i still haven't figured out why i can't read/write with ECUFlash.

 

That sounds like a tuning issue. Like you're hitting a max torque value on a torque limit table and the trans is shutting the car off. Who is tuning the car?

 

Any ideas why this would break the fork? I am signed up for my first HPDE event in my MR this year. I have done many events with other cars in the past, and getting a wheel off the ground from hitting the raised curbing isn't a rare event.
As for your current problem, it does sound totally like a tuning issue on the surface.

 

I think by "breaking" the fork they meant the magnet fell off, which is a common occurrence.

 

I have a feeling that it could be the MAF sensor.sensor.I started the car and removed the sensor and the car was still running (at lower rpm). I went for a run and got the issue three times. Got home and searched for codes and found two about the MAF/air flow. Later I'm going to post a video and the codes

 

Umm. The car will always run without the MAF, it just switches to full time speed density, and runs off of fixed conservative maf values. If you unplugged the MAF of course you got codes.

 

Yes, you are right! I thought about it just after i posted
By the way i always heard that a "MAF test" is unplugging it while the car is running and it should die, if the sensor is working properly.

However, . When the car tries to rev i'm pedal to the metal, all time.

 

Does this primarily occur after one or more overheat events of the SST ? Or is this a getrag flaw regardless of temperature?

 

Interesting. So SST is just disengaging at a certain rev or shift point?

 

Possibly, but I had been running the same tune for years without any issue. Do you think upgrading to steel clutches would have changed any torque?

 

No ideas, but lifting the wheel around a ~180 tight corner with trac off and then the wheel coming back down and burning rubber was when it went to ****.
The work done was a fork 4 repair. And in looking that up just now I found details I had sent to Kozmic about this that I forgot about. I had pulled a code when it happened and it was a p185D (clutch open not possible), but they had never experienced that code before so couldn't really help.

 

I have had 1 or 2 overheat events at other tracks, but had no overheat issues the day this happened - was maybe my 5 or 6th lap.

 

Ironically, I cleaned the MAF just because I'm open to ALL options and in doing so, I noticed that the wiring going to the MAF had been chewed up by a rodent - not totally severed, but enough that it's probably making a difference in things.... I tried searching forever, but cannot find ANY info on how to go about replacing that wiring/part #/etc. :/

 

Well, you were correct! I soldered the chewed up wiring and car is back to normal! ****ing chipmunks did $5k damage to my other car too over the fall/winter.