lando524g

iTrader: (4)

I just replaced my drivers side motor, as it was the defective side. I installed the new modified replacement motor, put it back together, and now like you, only the driver's side works and before I tore into it, all of them work but the driver's side. Did you happen to get it sorted out to get them all to work?

jujuizm

iTrader: (1)

I'm still having the same issues like you. and I haven't had the time to remove the entire thing to see what the heck is wrong with the door lock actuator on the driver's side . I am seriously thinking about getting the entire whole power lock actuator unit from the dealership for about $250 just like what 10isace was thinking. Its not a big deal but its just annoying to have a simple problem like this. I will keep you guys posted if there's any progress. Ill give it a shot maybe 6 weeks from now. lol.. sorry its almost the end of the semester and school is just taking away alot of my car mod time lol

10isace

iTrader: (12)

$250? Sounds good. I may do this after I buy the new windshield. Just bought 2 sets of tires. Unfortunately they scratched my forged rims and they're repairing it. So no mod $ for a month or so.

lando524g

iTrader: (4)

If I can't mine figured out, I was thinking of looking through the partout threads. For the right amount of money, maybe somebody would be willing to get their hands dirty to strip theirs out of their door. Worth a shot and probably wouldn't lose $250.

CDrinkH2O

iTrader: (7)

Not sure if you tried this one yet. If you did please report back and let us know if it works.

9!'clipseDOHC

iTrader: (7)

I did this today and so far it is working! I was at the junkyard getting the lock actuator for the rear hatch on my Montero Sport and I ran across a 2006 Lancer. It only had one door, the rear passenger side. I pulled apart the actuator and removed the motor itself. It cost me $1.99. Once I got home i disassembled my driver's side door, removed the entire actuator, opened the case, replaced the motor, cleaned the contacts, reapplied dialectic grease, put it all back together, and it worked!

I will be monitoring it over the next several days and make sure it continues to work. My original one still worked sometimes. I had noticed that it didn't work when the door was in direct sunlight. When it was in the shade or at night it always worked. So far it is working with the new motor and so are all the other doors (I know some of you had problems with the other doors not working). Here are some pictures I snapped while doing it:


The motor I bought from the Lancer at the junkyard.


My door actuator removed.


Pop that cover off, then remove the one screw and pry the actual motor case cover off.


The insides.

apexsilver8

iTrader: (2)

Note: the link posted previously on pg 2 is the incorrect part. It has the incorrect shaft type, and the shaft comes out the wrong side. I believe this should be the correct one:

FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT by Mabuchi

It shows fc-280pt-20150 on the original dc motor i pulled, but the above part number is the only one i could find with the d-shaft coming out of the correct side. Theyre both 12 volt dc motors according to mabuchis site.

The bottom motor is the original oem i pulled from my door. The upper motor is the one from the link on pg 2. Its confusing because the part numbers match, but there are multiple configurations for the shaft.

I also tried swapping the copper winding/shaft assembly, but it was too weak like before. It may work for some, but mine was too far gone.

Cliffs notes:
1.) Make sure the motor's plugs are opposite of the shaft (ie: white plastic part with 2 slots should be as far as possible from the shaft output side)
2.) Try to get a ~9mm long d-shaft (flat shaft)
3.) Part number should be Mabuchi fc-280-p*-***** (should be pt or pc followed by numbers).

Mods please sticky this and put in the how to section. Theres a lot of good useful info here.

apexsilver8

iTrader: (2)

I seem to be able to only attach one pic at a time using my ipad, but here is another comparison pic of the 2 dc motors assembled. Bottom one is the oem in both pics. U can tell because its all dirty and black.

Notice the part numbers match, but the internals are slightly different.

I bought this one off amazon:

What i received was not exactly as desbribed. I got the shaft with a bronze bushing on it. Made it work with a dremel, and all doors are working properly. They all open with one press of the fob as it was before.

Dont hesitate to try this if your door actuator is broken. Only 10 bucks vs 200, and works just fine.

zstryder

iTrader: (19)

I just did this today, and can confirm the last link to Amazon is the correct motor. Its the right right length, orientation, and shaft type. It's plug and play. The only difficulties I had in this process was prying the actuator open (it's glued). I ended up chipping a corner, but since it's held together by screws it should be okay.... thanks for everyone's info in this thread!

vortico

iTrader: (38)

9!'clipseDOHC helped me fix mine the other day. The actuator I bought was unfortunately not a direct replacement. We ended up opening the two motors up and doing the swap. Works perfectly. Although something is goofy now, perhaps we connected a connector badly or something as now my car randomly unlocks itself lol. So I will have to open it all up again and see what I may have screwed up. Anyone else have this happen to them?

zstryder

iTrader: (19)

After a few weeks I've noticed something goofy with mine too. It's not quite like yours, but on occasion the motor locks up and NOTHING can open the door. Remote doesn't trigger it (it triggers the other doors), manually using the key, opening it from the inside, etc. However, if I fire up the engine and get power up, the lock will start responding again. Not sure what would cause it.. happens about once a week or so.

jujuizm

iTrader: (1)

Here is my update:

Since I was the one who tried to open the door lock actuators first to fix the motor inside of it, and was one of the first ones who had a problem after a few months later (It was when the driver's side power lock completely stopped operating remotely lock or unlock, which stopped the 3 other power locks from unlocking remotely) after doing this fix, I gotta admit I got pissed and ended up buying a new front driver's side power lock actuator from the dealer.

It cost me around $200 plus tax which sucks, because once I opened my door panel on the driver's side and removed the old actuator again, here is what I saw.





Due to the constant movement of the parts in the actuator, and the weather here in the bay area, the epoxy that I have used gave up and opened the cover that I sealed by a few millimeters. If the front driver's side door actuator doesn't work properly, all the rest of the power locks wont respond to the remote lock or unlock feature.

If I was patient enough to check the part first before buying it from the dealer, I could've sealed this back again and saved myself $200.. My suggestion next time is for you guys to use a better glue, like gorilla glue or even jb weld that won't break due to the movement of the gears and parts inside. Or if you know how to melt the plastics together (kinda like plastic welding), that would be a lot better to ensure that the casing on the actuator won't ever open.

evoVI_PR

I replaced my worn motor with the one from Amazon, listed on a previous post. Sealed it up with epoxy and assembled everything. Driver's door is working fine, but when opening with the remote, only the driver's door will unlock, not the rest, like it should. After seeing this post of the split open case, I think this might be my problem. I think the car "doesn't know" the driver's lock is open and thus will not open the rest. The split case probably does not let the contacts for the gear location to work properly.
Anyway, I plan to disassemble the door again and check this out. I'll let you guys know what I find.

Thanks for a very informative thread!

Julian

Nemesis3

iTrader: (4)

Any updates gents?

I have the same issue with my driver side door lock actuator. I've read and have been following this post as well as the other post that's referenced to this issue. Those that have done the motor fix and have had issues; did you finally figure out what occurred?

Thanks!

rjfg

iTrader: (13)

Can someone post up the trick tomremoving the rods that attach the motor to the door handle that's where I am having issues