I used this motor from amazon as listed in this thread-

Trick to removing the plastic rod retainers, for the upper, insert the door key and turn to make the rod lower, then you can see you need to pull the bottom of the plastic forward the door hinge (straight that way) I had great luck with the hook pick from here- http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-66836.html Cheap and effective for grabbing the plastic out.

For the other one, I used long needle nose pliers pop them off.

It took me about 4 times before I put everything back correctly- tips

*Glue or zip tie the motor housing back together, mine came apart the first time

*Make sure the "white plastic tooth" goes back inside the white plastic retainer hole

**Near the upper rod retainer, I noticed that before I even started, there was an electric connection that was off (this may have had to do with the car unlocking all doors vs just the drivers) I attached it back afterwards

The door lock works great now, and sounds very strong, maybe that's normal, it's been so long since I've had a working door actuator. It locks and unlocked all doors no issues whatsoever, just like factory.

For 10$ and a decent amount of frustration learning the best way to do this, it was well worth it!
Highly advised over buying a new one. If there's any issues down the road i'll report back.

 

My trick for this was to unbolt as much as possible to allow the actuator more movement including the 1 bolt on the side of the door for the window guide.next I unbolt the 2 10mm's that go to the door handle. After that you'll be able to take out the 3 screws holding the actuator in place and push it up so that the rods on the door handle come out with the handle still attached.'gently' undo the clips with flathead screwdriver or pliers.

I just ordered my motor as well using the link you posted thanks man! Hopefully this goes from a $260 replacement to an $11 repair. Hell its been so long since I've used my key fob I forgot what it feels like lol

Will definitely post progress for mine as well once my motor has come in.

 

Excellent info! My drivers door actuator has been out for several years. I tried looking at it once myself and couldn't figure out how to remove the actuator. After reading this thread, I've got the motivation (and knowledge) to make another attempt.

 

I finally got around to tackling this over the weekend. I used a soldering iron to warm up loctite on the three screws holding the door latch in place. Just hold a soldering iron on the head of each screw for 1 - 2 minutes and it makes it much easier to break loose.

Got it all removed and the actuator unit opened up to find that I ordered the wrong motor. Shaft comes out the wrong end, and it's not the right shaft.

I've ordered another motor which I hope is correct.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111182112752...84.m1497.l2649
If I have any issues with this second motor, then I'll go down the path of disassembling and trying to recondition the original motor.

 

Success! The link to the motor I ordered listed in my previous post was correct. It is a different brand motor (Nichibo) but it fits perfectly.

This time around I had the actuator removed in about 10 minutes.

It's nice to finally have keyless entry again after so many years of this being broken.

 

The plastic lid is solvent welded on. Plastics like polycarbonate can be welded this way. You just use acetone to do it. The best way is to clamp the pieces together and then apply a drop of acetone with a syringe and needle at a few places around the lid. You will see the acetone wick into the joint. Leave it clamped for a few hours to make good and sure its dry.

Unfortunately, I didn't read ALL of the posts and so I bought the wrong motor (from the first few posts) and did the shaft swap tonight. Well, not really just the shaft but the entire rotating assembly/winding. I wish I would have read the hole thread first, but we'll see how it works in the morning when I wrap it up.

 

I take that back. Its not polycarbonate and the acetone didn't work well. Nor did the rest of my shaft swap. Now I'll order the amazon motor with the right shaft and hope for the best... and figure out a better way to bond that cover back on tight. This is a real nasty job.

 

Yeah its not fun. I'm somewhat wondering if I screwed it up a bit when I did it (maybe something didn't get plugged in all the way). Because since then my car has had some wierd electrical issues with the locks. They randomly unlock and it may be the cause of my battery draining... gotta take some time and figure out if this is true though.

 

Hey man, do you think you could share how you actually got the actuator out of the door once you removed the three mounting bolts.

I've removed the push rod and the cable from the internal door handle/lock because those were easily accessible, but I'm not sure about how to disengage the push rods that are attached to the external door handle.....

 

I remember using a small flathead screwdriver and a Harbor freight pick set to unlatch the rod clips. They swing off the rod and then slide out of the side. The rods are L shaped at the end if that helps. I think only one of the rods easily dismounts and the other one has to come out. Basically a lot of trial and error to get it out, and then you're a pro. Good luck!

 

Hi everyone. My lancer ES 2005 has same issue with driver door. When I do remotely lock or unlock, three other doors got locked/unlocked except the driver door. The driver door knob only moved a little bit.

However, I really do not know which motor should I order. If any one know which one fit into my car, please let me know. I would be highly appreciated.

My car: Mitsubishi Lancer ES 2005

 

Okay, I have the Amazon motor and the actuator out. I'm thinking it is a mistake to remove the entire gear case cover. Those two contacts on the last gear from the motor are telling the cabin computer the driver's side door is unlocked so go ahead and unlock the other doors. Glue the cover back on with the wrong stack height and find only the driver's side door unlocks.

So, I'm thinking just cut the the plastic open over the motor enough to drop in the new motor but otherwise leave the gears alone. Do you think this would work?

Edit: Now that I look at the picture I see the metal bars in the lid so that isn't going to work.

Edit #2: I want door locks that work so I ordered a replacement lock. Works better than new.

 

Hi everyone.

I just did my Lancer ES 05. I ordered this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160650309370?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
It's not correct. This has round shaft and wrong shaft end. But I see lot of dirty inside the old motor. I did clean it and get it worked but weak. I have to exchange the carbon piece from new one to the old one. It's working now but not perfect. I am gona order the new motor:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111182112752...649&rmvSB=true

This should be the corrected one.

 

FYI I have done a two of these in the past 2 months... Both driver door lock actuators in my two evos died within a month of each other!!! Anyway, the best thing I have found to glue the case back together is PVC cement, just as if you were doing some pipes... So first put down a nice coat of purple primer to both sides, then apply cement to both sides, I also added a bit to the outside of the joint as well... clamped it together and let it sit for a few days to make sure everything was dry and good to go...

Also this is the motor I used...

 

Glad I found this thread! Took my drivers door lock module out and tried cleaning it but no luck. The motor was still too weak to unlock the door. Did a search on Ebay using the numbers Fast_Freddie posted and bought from this seller http://www.ebay.com/itm/111593275419?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. Swapped out the motors and it solved me problem.