How to replace driver door lock actuator
#1
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How to replace driver door lock actuator
Hi Everyone,
Has anyone successfully replaced or removed the driver side door actuator on an Evo 8? If so, can you describe the steps that you took or point me towards an existing guide that I might have missed during my internet searches. (I've found numerous forum posts around this problem, but no clear how-to or guide of how to fix it ... expect for "replace your lock actuator")
Car: 2005 Evo8 USDM
Problem:
My driver side door actuator appears to be in in the early stages of giving out and its quickly progressing to fully non functional. The problem arises when I try to lock or unlock the door using the remote (key-less entry.) Visually I can see that the driver side lock twitches a bit for both the lock and unlock sequence but the actuator does not appear to have enough force? (powers? oomph?) to fully physically lock or unlock the door. (From time to time the driver door does successfully unlock using the remote)
This problem is further exacerbated due to the stock car alarm not arming or disarming properly when the lock actuator fails to function properly. Essentially the car alarm will go off if I 'unlock' all 4 doors (double press "Unlock" on remote) but my driver door does not physically unlock, at this point if a passenger opens any of the other 3 doors the alarm will be triggered.
Attempted Solution:
I was able to successfully remove the door panel, access the hardware and wiring within the driver-side door but I cannot get to the actuator. According to the Evo 8 Service Manual, the actuator and door latch assembly are a single unit (see section 42-41 & 42-43) therefore I would need to remove the entire assembly to test or replace it.
The problem that I ran into is that the assembly screws on the side of the door (where the door and frame meet, see 42-41 item "N") are torqued beyond belief and/or thread-locker was used. The 3 phillips screws appear to be copper and quite fragile so there is no way for me to remove them with a screwdriver (they strip quickly so they would be destroyed before I could get the screw to turn a single mm.) I tried using some penetrating lube to see if any of the screws would give but no luck ... i was starting to see damage to the screw head.
If you have any ideas or suggestions on how to proceed with the door actuator problem please feel free to share them. At this point I'm considering going to the mitsu dealer and see what they quote me because I really need this to work properly 100% of the time, especially since its on the driver door.
Has anyone successfully replaced or removed the driver side door actuator on an Evo 8? If so, can you describe the steps that you took or point me towards an existing guide that I might have missed during my internet searches. (I've found numerous forum posts around this problem, but no clear how-to or guide of how to fix it ... expect for "replace your lock actuator")
Car: 2005 Evo8 USDM
Problem:
My driver side door actuator appears to be in in the early stages of giving out and its quickly progressing to fully non functional. The problem arises when I try to lock or unlock the door using the remote (key-less entry.) Visually I can see that the driver side lock twitches a bit for both the lock and unlock sequence but the actuator does not appear to have enough force? (powers? oomph?) to fully physically lock or unlock the door. (From time to time the driver door does successfully unlock using the remote)
This problem is further exacerbated due to the stock car alarm not arming or disarming properly when the lock actuator fails to function properly. Essentially the car alarm will go off if I 'unlock' all 4 doors (double press "Unlock" on remote) but my driver door does not physically unlock, at this point if a passenger opens any of the other 3 doors the alarm will be triggered.
Attempted Solution:
I was able to successfully remove the door panel, access the hardware and wiring within the driver-side door but I cannot get to the actuator. According to the Evo 8 Service Manual, the actuator and door latch assembly are a single unit (see section 42-41 & 42-43) therefore I would need to remove the entire assembly to test or replace it.
The problem that I ran into is that the assembly screws on the side of the door (where the door and frame meet, see 42-41 item "N") are torqued beyond belief and/or thread-locker was used. The 3 phillips screws appear to be copper and quite fragile so there is no way for me to remove them with a screwdriver (they strip quickly so they would be destroyed before I could get the screw to turn a single mm.) I tried using some penetrating lube to see if any of the screws would give but no luck ... i was starting to see damage to the screw head.
If you have any ideas or suggestions on how to proceed with the door actuator problem please feel free to share them. At this point I'm considering going to the mitsu dealer and see what they quote me because I really need this to work properly 100% of the time, especially since its on the driver door.
#2
I had to use an impact driver to get those 3 screws out. But once you get to that it's even more complicated to take out the actuator.
Does anyone know how to actually remove the latch and actuator? I've removed everything except ONE rod that comes down from the door handle. How do I remove this or is it even necessary?
Does anyone know how to actually remove the latch and actuator? I've removed everything except ONE rod that comes down from the door handle. How do I remove this or is it even necessary?
#5
Yeah I pm'd rrstlevo about it and he helped me out, i was able to get it out and clean everything inside and found the source of the problem was the thermal resistor inside the small motor. Instead of replacing the entire actuator you can replace the motor which is made by Mabuchi and they sell them on ebay for 5$.
#6
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Yeah I pm'd rrstlevo about it and he helped me out, i was able to get it out and clean everything inside and found the source of the problem was the thermal resistor inside the small motor. Instead of replacing the entire actuator you can replace the motor which is made by Mabuchi and they sell them on ebay for 5$.
#7
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Yeah I pm'd rrstlevo about it and he helped me out, i was able to get it out and clean everything inside and found the source of the problem was the thermal resistor inside the small motor. Instead of replacing the entire actuator you can replace the motor which is made by Mabuchi and they sell them on ebay for 5$.
http://stores.ebay.com/SurplusDeal/M...20150+12v+DOOR
Last edited by CDrinkH2O; Apr 20, 2013 at 09:35 AM.
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#8
Hey guys, I made a video replacing the door actuator. It's not the greatest but I'm hoping it will help a lot of people out and give them a better idea of how to do it!
Cheers!
Cheers!
#10
Evolved Member
My driver's side door actuator failed. After seeing the above video and reading around I purchased the above electric motor. But then reading that some people had restored the operation of the drivers door with the fob only to have the other doors fail to operate, I realized that the problem there is getting the case glued back together with the same stack height. Fail to do that and the contacts on the final gear don't make and the cabin computer doesn't know the driver's door has unlocked and refuses to do the others.
The solution: buy a new door lock.
The solution: buy a new door lock.
#13
My driver's side door actuator failed. After seeing the above video and reading around I purchased the above electric motor. But then reading that some people had restored the operation of the drivers door with the fob only to have the other doors fail to operate, I realized that the problem there is getting the case glued back together with the same stack height. Fail to do that and the contacts on the final gear don't make and the cabin computer doesn't know the driver's door has unlocked and refuses to do the others.
The solution: buy a new door lock.
The solution: buy a new door lock.
#14
I had to use an impact driver to get those 3 screws out. But once you get to that it's even more complicated to take out the actuator.
Does anyone know how to actually remove the latch and actuator? I've removed everything except ONE rod that comes down from the door handle. How do I remove this or is it even necessary?
Does anyone know how to actually remove the latch and actuator? I've removed everything except ONE rod that comes down from the door handle. How do I remove this or is it even necessary?
#15
Actuator
Definitely don't use an impact wrench or you will strip the threads. I had to use a heat gun and it worked perfectly. In order to get the "blue" clip off you will have to insert your key from outside the door and turn it. This will move the rod with the blue clip closer so you can access it. If you feel confident in your abilities then you can try to save money and replace the small motor inside the actuator assembly. If not, I'd suggest buying the complete assembly. The cost difference is about 10 bucks vs 75 to 100 bucks.
Do a YouTube search for Chris Goorbarry. He has a pretty detailed video.
Do a YouTube search for Chris Goorbarry. He has a pretty detailed video.
Last edited by sotxEvo; Jan 9, 2022 at 01:39 PM.
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