I really like the Endless CC-X pads for the track. Unfortunately, they scream like a banshee on the streets. Another drawback is the price. After racing, I leave the rears on and put the stock pads back on front. The dust doesn't seem to be any worse than stock, and I don't believe it's corrosive.

 

Why don't we all just put in air ducts and be rid of all the hassles of rotors and pads.
Isn't heat the issue here?
I own three rotors soon four, and I really want to deal with the source of the problem.
I have yet to go to the trouble of a dedicated rotor and race pad; is that necessary for 20" of track time? Would air ducts solve the problem alone or do i need ducts and dedicated race rotors too?

 

Aren't the Porterfield R4S's a street pad?

 

I've run both the Carbotech panther plus and the Performance friction PF97 compound on track days at VIR and Road Atlanta.
The carbotechs worked extremely well, with very good wear on both pad and rotors.
The PF's are extremely loud when hot, enough
so that the cars I'm chasing down can hear my braking over their downshifts.
Both pads handle the track well... no complaints here.
I consider myself to be a fairly fast track day junkie, so the use on the pads is rather hard.

 

porterfield r4s is a street pad.

I use performance friction
90 front
97 rear

works great, lasts a long time.

Call Porterfield in LA and tell them how you use the car, they will recommend something for you. They carry PF, Hawk, Ferodo and more.

As far as solving the root issue, the stock brakes are just too weak for heavy duty track use, so all the elements around them must be upgraded to get the most out of the stock calipers. This means:

Good Fluid, like ATE Super Blue
Ducts
Pads
Stainless Lines
remove backing plates
maybe upgraded rotors, I've never tried any.

 

sorry to ask an ignorant question, but why remove the backing plates? Just to let the rotor cool slightly faster? What kind of consequences can I expect on the street w/out backing plates (esp. in a chicago winter)?

l8r)

 

Take the backing plates off to help cool the rotors. I've taken them off pretty much every car I have had without any negative side effects. On the Evo, I did wrap the abs wire with some thermo type wrap to keep it from getting baked.

 

I use the Cobalt GT-Sport pads for Autocross and they work really, really well even when cold, but they are super loud.

I have also used them for track days and they are still awesome.

I am going to get a set of spec(VR)s for the track.

I also have to say that guys at Cobalt are awesome. I emailed them with a question and the president of the company called me personally with an answer.



Cobalt Website

Cobalt spec(VR)
SKU: CRB.VR.D961
Weight: 5 lbs
Price: $299.00 (front)
Price: $169.00 (rear)

Product Details
Cobalt spec(VR) is a professional motorsports compound designed for GT sportscar, formula car, sport racer, and prototype road racing, featuring an extremely strong initial bite and sustained braking torque, excellent modulation and release characteristics, a very linear pedal feel for consistent braking performance, and very high fade resistance. The spec(VR) has a virtually flat torque curve, with a coefficient of friction of 0.64mu, with fade free performance in excess of 1550F. Additionally, the spec(VR) is extremely disc friendly and has very good wear rates. Suitable for most GT-class vehicles, formula cars (Atlatic, Continental, Mazda, et al.), sport racers (Radical, Stohr, WSR, et al.) and prototypes (Daytona Prototype, ALMS P2, et al.). **

Cobalt GT-Sport
SKU: CRB.GTS.D1001
Weight: 5 lbs
Price: $175.00 (front)
Price: $109.00 (rear)

Product Details
Cobalt GT-Sport is a proven, class-winning ProSolo Autocross compound exhibiting good cold performance, a strong, aggressive initial bite, linear pedal feel with excellent modulation, and high fade resistance. Along with its excellent performance, the GT-Sport compound is rotor friendly and has very good wear rates over a broad operating temperature range. For the serious autocross driver, the GT-Sport will let you take back the time under braking! Also suitable for spirited street driving (i.e. canyon and mountain drives, etc.) and novice to intermediate level HPDE events on most vehicles (under 3000lbs).

 

I use Endless CCR on the track and street, since I don't drive much on the street. These are good pad for the track and still streetable except nosie. Brake dust are not corrosive like Hawk Blue which I use these before.
The OEM pad has 2 backing plates, one is glued to the pad. I use one backing plate and the pedal feel is better compare to stock. Backing plate is not provide damping between caliper piston and pad to reduce noise. I work for brake and suspension company.

 

I have used PF 97's with not a ton of noise, which I guess is rare. I also went with frozen rotors from Diversified Cryogenics, slotted, which could help, but when hot, the PF97's are amazing. I brake hard enough to boil ATE Superblue fluid, and my calipers are comletely burned brown, so if they stop me, they'll stop most...haha

 

Muahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!

My 15-year-old daughter HATES my EVO because the PF pads squeal so much on the street once they warm up.