For those who track your EVO and also swap your brake pad at the track, can you post what you use and how you like it. I'm doing some research on TRACK ONLY brake pad and I would like to see what kind of choice is available for the EVO.

Please note: Track Pad is NOT streetable or street use friendly, some track pad should run with a seperate set of rotor.

I have use a few set of Track pad (like Hawk Blue, DS3000, CCX, Cobalt VR spec) on a much lighter car (ITR) but nothing on the EVO yet.


So far I know

Carbotech: XP8, 9, 10.
Project MU: Titian Kai
Hawk: no info
Ferodo: DS3000
Endless: CCX
Porterfield: R4 ?
Cobalt Friction: N/A


Thank you !

 

I've used Hawk Blue and Hawk HT10's.

The Blues have nice modulation, but lack the ultimate bite of the HT10's or HT14's. I've also found that after about 10min on a brake intensive track they overheat a bit, not to the point of fade, but braking distances increase just a bit.

The HT10's are a bit harder to modulate, but have more bite and work at even high temps than the Blues. Unfortanately their more expensive too.

I just ordered the HT14's (Hawk's most agressive pad) and will try them out shortly.

 

I have used Carbotech XP 9's and Porterfield R4's.. both are comparable and worked well for me.

n

 

What are the costs as well. HT14's are $270 fronts.

 

Are Hawk blues streetable at all? I really don't know if I want to go with a dedicated track pad just yet, but the Hawk HPS I was running at Gingerman seemed a bit on the light side.

l8r)

 

Blues are not streetable at all.

 

Any noise with the R4S?

 

used: carbotech panther plus - garbage
performance friction 97 - good pads...retain too much heat though
pagid RS-19 - amazing pads....best i have dealt with so far but expensive

 

absolutely. Both pads are 'squeeeeeeeeeeeeeky' as hell.

n

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ght=brake+pads

 

If you go with a dedicated track pad that you'll swap at the track let me recommend a dedicated set of rotors too.
My current track setup is Hawk Blues front with blank rotors and Ferodo 2500 and blank rotors in the rear. No cooling ducts other than stock brake coolers.
I leave the 2500's on the rear for street and track. The rear never seems to get hot enough to make it reasonable to purchase rear pads/rotors and take the time to swap them out. I have used the Ferodo 3000's in the rear before and I prefer the bite of the 2500s.
I've used the 3000's on the front many times, but more often then not I end up with a pad transfer problem and a severe case of brake judder. A lot of others have not had this problem though. But on to their performance the 3000s require a lap of warming up then they stay consistent. Brake noise? Who cares, this is for the track! The DS3000s are also very pricey. I got good life out of my first set, but then I used a new set on some slotted rotors and chewed them up in two days. BOYCOTT SLOTTED/DRILLED ROTORS!!!

Last weekend I tried the Hawk Blues for the first time. Loved them. I prepped a dedicated set of rotors with an aggressive bed in procedure. I used stoptech's race pad procedure. I understand if you don't bed them in properly they will chew rotors up fast.

When these pads are warming up they have a very aggresive bite, but once they get up to temperature, like mentioned earlier, the bite does go away a little. Nothing drastic but you do notice. I also experienced good wear on the pads and no pad transfer problems. They really do turn your rotors blue. They also come at a decent price. I'm going to stick with this current setup until issues arrise.

 

That's no surprise! The Hawk HPS is a dedicated street pad and not at all meant for track use.

Emre

 

Just be careful with Hawk Blues. The dust they generate is HIGHLY corrosive. It can literally eat away at your wheels and paint (especially if it gets wet). If you use Hawk Blues, you need to clean your wheels and paint immediately. I've had to toss a set of BBS rims because they were corroded so badly from Hawk Blues that they failed tech inspection!

Try the Carbotech XP-9's. They're comparable to Hawk Blues but are non-corrosive.

Emre

 

thanks for all the reply guys......very useful info.

I do have a question about the Hawk Blue, is the brake dust from the Blue very hard to wash off? I remember that was the case in DS3000.

thanks


*** edit *** Emre just answer my question. THANKS

 

I thought the DS3000 was harder to get off and stuck to the car body more too than the blues.
kaylaap is right about the corrosion factor of the blues. After you use them wash the wheels and car as soon as you can. Especially if it rains. I went a couple days after use but it never got wet and I noticed no oxidation.