Track pad question...
Originally Posted by Tsurara
Can someone comment on PFC-01 vs. PFC-97
And also can someone comment on PFC-01/97 vs. Carbotech XP11?
I currently use Carbotech XP11s in the front, they're great but I need to replace them and am wondering about how the PFCs compare.
Thanks!
Also where the hell can I buy PFC pads
And also can someone comment on PFC-01/97 vs. Carbotech XP11?
I currently use Carbotech XP11s in the front, they're great but I need to replace them and am wondering about how the PFCs compare.
Thanks!
Also where the hell can I buy PFC pads

With great modulation, a flat torque curve, enhanced release characteristics and the lowest wear of any PFC Compound, 97 is considered PFC “Endurance Compound." Excellent disc conditioning. As an example, 97 is the pad of choice for the majority of the Daytona 24 field. 2006 Daytona 24 champion was on PFC calipers/discs/pads.
01 front and rear on the Evo's and STi chassis is an excellent setup, as is 97 front and rear for those requiring lower wear and more of a progressive feel. For those that are racing with a more developed chassis setup and non-dot slicks I would suggest, 01 front and 05 in the rear. 05 has higher torque and bite than 01 dialing in more rear brake.
Keep in mind that with more torque comes more heat, you will find flaws in the system very quickly. High temp fluid is key, preferablely fluid with a high ester content (SRF). The stock discs have a low moly and copper content, so if you plan on running 01, you may want to look at higher quality discs.
Last edited by CharlesJ; Sep 21, 2006 at 05:41 AM.
Originally Posted by PFC
01 front and rear on the STi chassis is an excellent setup, as is 97 front and rear for those requiring lower wear and more of a progressive feel. For those that are racing with a more developed chassis setup and non-dot slicks I would suggest, 01 front and 05 in the rear. 05 has higher torque and bite than 01 dialing in more rear brake.
Keep in mind that with more torque comes more heat, you will find flaws in the system very quickly. High temp fluid is key, preferablely fluid with a high ester content (SRF). The stock STi discs have a low moly and copper content, so if you plan on running 01, you may want to look at higher quality discs.
dtc 70
I got a set of HT-10's because I couldn't find anyone stocking the dtc's. Anyone know a good vendor? And what price can I expect to pay, $350?
I just finished 2 days of hpde at Watkins Glen. Amazing, fast 3.5 mile track! Problem was the pads barely survived the 2 days. Toatally worn out and they started cracking on the pad surface. They stop me alright but I couldn't sustain a good performance level for long. I always pitted early to save the brakes.
I rather pay a little more for lasting brakes than wasting very expensive track time.
But definitely checkout Watkins Glen even if it means a 8-10 hour drive. Trust me, you'll think its worth it. There pics of the event up on www.pdadrivingschool.com
I just finished 2 days of hpde at Watkins Glen. Amazing, fast 3.5 mile track! Problem was the pads barely survived the 2 days. Toatally worn out and they started cracking on the pad surface. They stop me alright but I couldn't sustain a good performance level for long. I always pitted early to save the brakes.
I rather pay a little more for lasting brakes than wasting very expensive track time.
But definitely checkout Watkins Glen even if it means a 8-10 hour drive. Trust me, you'll think its worth it. There pics of the event up on www.pdadrivingschool.com
Originally Posted by RoundPro
+1 and don't forget about top brake fluid, castrol SRF is great but $$.
http://www.bmwquebec.ca/bmw/technical/brake_fluids
Notice how the dry boiling point of SRF (590°F) is exactly the same as AP Racing 600 and Motul RBF600? Yet, it's $70/liter compared to $25/liter for the other two!
The big deal with SRF is it's high wet boiling point. Since we all flush our brake fluid before each event, who cares about wet boiling points? We're interested in dry boiling points...and there are several fluids out there that have even better dry boiling points and still cost less than SRF.
Emre
Originally Posted by PFC
Sorry about that, long day.... In testing we've found the EVO and STi like the same setup though.
Good info!
Originally Posted by inslowoutfast
I got a set of HT-10's because I couldn't find anyone stocking the dtc's. Anyone know a good vendor? And what price can I expect to pay, $350?
I just finished 2 days of hpde at Watkins Glen. Amazing, fast 3.5 mile track! Problem was the pads barely survived the 2 days. Toatally worn out and they started cracking on the pad surface. They stop me alright but I couldn't sustain a good performance level for long. I always pitted early to save the brakes.
I rather pay a little more for lasting brakes than wasting very expensive track time.
But definitely checkout Watkins Glen even if it means a 8-10 hour drive. Trust me, you'll think its worth it. There pics of the event up on www.pdadrivingschool.com
I just finished 2 days of hpde at Watkins Glen. Amazing, fast 3.5 mile track! Problem was the pads barely survived the 2 days. Toatally worn out and they started cracking on the pad surface. They stop me alright but I couldn't sustain a good performance level for long. I always pitted early to save the brakes.
I rather pay a little more for lasting brakes than wasting very expensive track time.
But definitely checkout Watkins Glen even if it means a 8-10 hour drive. Trust me, you'll think its worth it. There pics of the event up on www.pdadrivingschool.com
I stock the DTC's... PM me for the best pricing anywhere.
-Kyle
I know that I am probably going to get roasted at the stake for this review but, I ran a set of PFC 01's this past weekend at Hallett (instructor group) which is notoriously hard on brakes and I wont buy them again. One day on them and there was 1/4 of the pad left. Good thing it rained on the second day or I would have finished them off in the morning session. Also I found that they didnt perform any better than my previous setup which was, believe it or not a set of Project Mu Level Max 900 pads. The P Mu pads outlasted the PFC pads by a great deal as well.
I dont feel the PFC's are worth the price. Next time I will try the Hawks and see if they are worth the price. I dont mind spending a lot of money on parts that work, but when I get nothing in return for my investment I become a little irritated.
Brake Setup:
Stock Calipers
Power Slot rotors - last second replacement no one had anything in stock
Braided lines
Motul RBF 600
Titanium backing plates
Brake cooling guides
No dust shields
jeff
I dont feel the PFC's are worth the price. Next time I will try the Hawks and see if they are worth the price. I dont mind spending a lot of money on parts that work, but when I get nothing in return for my investment I become a little irritated.
Brake Setup:
Stock Calipers
Power Slot rotors - last second replacement no one had anything in stock
Braided lines
Motul RBF 600
Titanium backing plates
Brake cooling guides
No dust shields
jeff
Originally Posted by swordfish
I know that I am probably going to get roasted at the stake for this review but, I ran a set of PFC 01's this past weekend at Hallett (instructor group) which is notoriously hard on brakes and I wont buy them again. One day on them and there was 1/4 of the pad left. Good thing it rained on the second day or I would have finished them off in the morning session. Also I found that they didnt perform any better than my previous setup which was, believe it or not a set of Project Mu Level Max 900 pads. The P Mu pads outlasted the PFC pads by a great deal as well.
I dont feel the PFC's are worth the price. Next time I will try the Hawks and see if they are worth the price. I dont mind spending a lot of money on parts that work, but when I get nothing in return for my investment I become a little irritated.
Brake Setup:
Stock Calipers
Power Slot rotors - last second replacement no one had anything in stock
Braided lines
Motul RBF 600
Titanium backing plates
Brake cooling guides
No dust shields
jeff
I dont feel the PFC's are worth the price. Next time I will try the Hawks and see if they are worth the price. I dont mind spending a lot of money on parts that work, but when I get nothing in return for my investment I become a little irritated.
Brake Setup:
Stock Calipers
Power Slot rotors - last second replacement no one had anything in stock
Braided lines
Motul RBF 600
Titanium backing plates
Brake cooling guides
No dust shields
jeff
Ive gotten a few events outta my 97's, but most have been in the wet unfortunately.
I think most of us are willing to pay for a good pad, as long as we actually get a little bit of life out of it.
I’m not trying to start a PFC bashing contest, but I was in the same boat you guys are in. I had the PFC 2pc rotor’s and pads. I had horrible heat issues and the rotor/life was sub standard (kinda like stock). Once I went to RacingBrake 2pc rotors with the Hawk DTC pads, my heat, life and soft pedal issues went away.
-Kyle
-Kyle
Originally Posted by kingkyle
I’m not trying to start a PFC bashing contest, but I was in the same boat you guys are in. I had the PFC 2pc rotor’s and pads. I had horrible heat issues and the rotor/life was sub standard (kinda like stock). Once I went to RacingBrake 2pc rotors with the Hawk DTC pads, my heat, life and soft pedal issues went away.
-Kyle
-Kyle
The DTC-60 pads I got were about half worn. So I'm guessing they had 2 or 3 track days on them. I managed to get 3 more track days out of the pads, so they had a total of 5 days on them. I did "rotate" the pads to even out the wear. Two of the pads' corners chunked off, so I decided to it was time to change them even though they weren't down to the factory service limit. I guess the racing service limit should be higher.


I also found that Thunderhill wears pads down about 2.5X - 3X more per track day compared to Infineon.
I'm now using DTC-70 pads in front, which more or less feels like the DTC-60s. I can't tell much of a difference between the two.




