opinion on R compounds
nittos have that hint more grip, but last a little less. Either tire you can flip and run backwards, the rain grooves are only for that, rain. shaved or unshaved, theyre good tires.
Unless you're made of dough, don't shave them, imo. You may be quicker that first or second session, but big deal, i run tires a lot longer than most people, and life is what i want, not a single quick lap. If i wanted disposable tires, i'd run hoosiers, and be 10x as broke.
Both ra-1s and nt-01's get better as they get thinner. however, i've run couple cycled ra-1's that were near the prime, and gotten similar laps with nittos.
Unless you're made of dough, don't shave them, imo. You may be quicker that first or second session, but big deal, i run tires a lot longer than most people, and life is what i want, not a single quick lap. If i wanted disposable tires, i'd run hoosiers, and be 10x as broke.

Both ra-1s and nt-01's get better as they get thinner. however, i've run couple cycled ra-1's that were near the prime, and gotten similar laps with nittos.
Unless you're made of dough, don't shave them, imo. You may be quicker that first or second session, but big deal, i run tires a lot longer than most people, and life is what i want, not a single quick lap. If i wanted disposable tires, i'd run hoosiers, and be 10x as broke.

Tip about shaving RA1s. Its only worth keeping them full tread if you know there will be rain driving in your future or if your car is going to see at most 1-2 track events during the life of the tires.
Otherwise, that full tread squirm folks are talking about will create more friction, more wear and chord the tires faster. I know, ive done it both ways, 2nd time at the suggestion of Ron at AIM tires. It works, this set that was shaved to 6/32nds (enduro shave) is lasting longer. This is with one track event/month and driving to/from events.
Beyond that, flipping your tires after 2 weekends (before you can see the insides wearing more) is the 2nd best thing you can do for RA1s or any race tire.
Otherwise, that full tread squirm folks are talking about will create more friction, more wear and chord the tires faster. I know, ive done it both ways, 2nd time at the suggestion of Ron at AIM tires. It works, this set that was shaved to 6/32nds (enduro shave) is lasting longer. This is with one track event/month and driving to/from events.
Beyond that, flipping your tires after 2 weekends (before you can see the insides wearing more) is the 2nd best thing you can do for RA1s or any race tire.
Thats exactly what I'm thinking... there are times when taking a little off the top of a tire will actually let it last longer.
I want a set of RA1s but it's going to be hard to justify when I can get some full go disposable Avons for peanuts.
I want a set of RA1s but it's going to be hard to justify when I can get some full go disposable Avons for peanuts.
i relate wear to how you use the tire. Sure, i could cord a set of new ra-1's in a weekend, but i don't. they last a good long time, IF you're not always trying 100% for that fastest lap.
i get much more life out of them than 3-5 days, id say on the order of 6-7 on nittos and 8-9 on fresh ra-1s.
i get much more life out of them than 3-5 days, id say on the order of 6-7 on nittos and 8-9 on fresh ra-1s.
Tip about shaving RA1s. Its only worth keeping them full tread if you know there will be rain driving in your future or if your car is going to see at most 1-2 track events during the life of the tires.
Otherwise, that full tread squirm folks are talking about will create more friction, more wear and chord the tires faster. I know, ive done it both ways, 2nd time at the suggestion of Ron at AIM tires. It works, this set that was shaved to 6/32nds (enduro shave) is lasting longer. This is with one track event/month and driving to/from events.
Beyond that, flipping your tires after 2 weekends (before you can see the insides wearing more) is the 2nd best thing you can do for RA1s or any race tire.
Otherwise, that full tread squirm folks are talking about will create more friction, more wear and chord the tires faster. I know, ive done it both ways, 2nd time at the suggestion of Ron at AIM tires. It works, this set that was shaved to 6/32nds (enduro shave) is lasting longer. This is with one track event/month and driving to/from events.
Beyond that, flipping your tires after 2 weekends (before you can see the insides wearing more) is the 2nd best thing you can do for RA1s or any race tire.
I love my RA1s, I have yet to try the Nittos though. The RA1s gave me good audio feedback and held up to a lot of abuse. Local tire shops will shave them but you need to make sure the tires are new and tell them its for racing only.
Tip about shaving RA1s. Its only worth keeping them full tread if you know there will be rain driving in your future or if your car is going to see at most 1-2 track events during the life of the tires.
Otherwise, that full tread squirm folks are talking about will create more friction, more wear and chord the tires faster. I know, ive done it both ways, 2nd time at the suggestion of Ron at AIM tires. It works, this set that was shaved to 6/32nds (enduro shave) is lasting longer. This is with one track event/month and driving to/from events.
Beyond that, flipping your tires after 2 weekends (before you can see the insides wearing more) is the 2nd best thing you can do for RA1s or any race tire.
Otherwise, that full tread squirm folks are talking about will create more friction, more wear and chord the tires faster. I know, ive done it both ways, 2nd time at the suggestion of Ron at AIM tires. It works, this set that was shaved to 6/32nds (enduro shave) is lasting longer. This is with one track event/month and driving to/from events.
Beyond that, flipping your tires after 2 weekends (before you can see the insides wearing more) is the 2nd best thing you can do for RA1s or any race tire.
I've also heard from reputable sources that the RA1s need more negative camber that the NT-01s to acheive the same cornering power, because the NT-01s have a stiffer sidewall, so if you're running a stock suspension set up, and cornering grip is important to you, then the Nittos are a better choice.
Not to throw a wrench in but I recently switched from the Kuhmo's to Hankook's finding the Hankook to be much better out of the bos and on long runs. The Kuhmo's tended to get greasy the last several laps of a run where the Hnakook's did not.
Contact Firsby Tire (www.FrisbyRaceTire.com) for Hankooks or Toyos!
Mark "Feff" Pfeffer
www.MVPTrackTime.com
Contact Firsby Tire (www.FrisbyRaceTire.com) for Hankooks or Toyos!
Mark "Feff" Pfeffer
www.MVPTrackTime.com
Not to throw a wrench in but I recently switched from the Kuhmo's to Hankook's finding the Hankook to be much better out of the bos and on long runs. The Kuhmo's tended to get greasy the last several laps of a run where the Hnakook's did not.
Contact Firsby Tire (www.FrisbyRaceTire.com) for Hankooks or Toyos!
Mark "Feff" Pfeffer
www.MVPTrackTime.com
Contact Firsby Tire (www.FrisbyRaceTire.com) for Hankooks or Toyos!
Mark "Feff" Pfeffer
www.MVPTrackTime.com
It looks like all sorts of people with actual experience have offered up lots of good info. My experience with RA-1's has been great. I decided to order a set and leave them full tread depth. This decision was based on my early season use. I have track time starting in April. This early in the season I've experienced very low track temps, rain, sleet and an occasional bout of snow. With this in mind, I wanted to be ready for anything. I don't think I'd recommend leaving the tires full depth if you start later in the season and temps are warmer. In my case, I ran an early April weekend and this did the shaving for me automatically (no extra cost). After this first weekend, I measured tread depth between 4-5/32nds on all 4 tires. Keeping a close eye on wear is key. I frequently rotate and had them flipped on the wheels half way through my season. After 6 events, I have a tire that’s still looking good and may get me through half of the 07 season. I may try the Nitto next to see how they compare.






