Help me avoid brake fluid boiling on track...
Apr 6, 2007, 12:50 PM
#16
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Must change fluid...Motul is very good.
Castrol SRF is best because it has a higher "wet" boiling point, which means you flush it less often, thereby saving fluid...about the same cost per season but with less work and better "used" performance.
Pads - HP+ pads are a good aggressive street/autox pad. I've switched to Pagid Yellow pads and are amazed. Great bite, great wear, decent dusting, no fade yet.
Ducts--- the more you cool your rotors, the better you'll be in the long run.
For feel - stainless lines.
That's it. Your brake issues should be fixed with those...unless your very fast or very bad with brakes.
Be good,
TomK
Castrol SRF is best because it has a higher "wet" boiling point, which means you flush it less often, thereby saving fluid...about the same cost per season but with less work and better "used" performance.
Pads - HP+ pads are a good aggressive street/autox pad. I've switched to Pagid Yellow pads and are amazed. Great bite, great wear, decent dusting, no fade yet.
Ducts--- the more you cool your rotors, the better you'll be in the long run.
For feel - stainless lines.
That's it. Your brake issues should be fixed with those...unless your very fast or very bad with brakes.
Be good,
TomK
Apr 6, 2007, 12:57 PM
#17
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Of course I value everyone's opinion, otherwise I would not have asked the question here. But when you look at the temp difference, I find it hard to believe that we all just so happen to end up running temps in that narrow window between the Motul and the ATE. And if you ask drivers of other cars on the roadcourse you will find many varied opinions. A friend of mine runs a C5 in the One Lap on Hawk HP+ pads. And like I said earlier, when I was at Putnam I asked as many people as possible in the time trial class what fluid they were running and I had a variety of responses including Motul, ATE, DOT4 and Wilwood. More people told me to go with Wilwood fluid than Motul just because it is cheap. And lots of people looked at me like I was retarded and said to just put regular old fluid in it lol. I found the dry boiling point for the Wilwood 570 and it is 570 degrees F, but I cannot find a wet boiling point.
I also had people tell me they boiled the Motul until they learned how to use their brakes properly. I have the ATE sitting here so I am inclined to use it, then see if improving my braking style helps at all. I'll give it a whirl and report back.
I also had people tell me they boiled the Motul until they learned how to use their brakes properly. I have the ATE sitting here so I am inclined to use it, then see if improving my braking style helps at all. I'll give it a whirl and report back.
Apr 6, 2007, 01:02 PM
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Of course I value everyone's opinion, otherwise I would not have asked the question here. But when you look at the temp difference, I find it hard to believe that we all just so happen to end up running temps in that narrow window between the Motul and the ATE. And if you ask drivers of other cars on the roadcourse you will find many varied opinions. A friend of mine runs a C5 in the One Lap on Hawk HP+ pads. And like I said earlier, when I was at Putnam I asked as many people as possible in the time trial class what fluid they were running and I had a variety of responses including Motul, ATE, DOT4 and Wilwood. More people told me to go with Wilwood fluid than Motul just because it is cheap. And lots of people looked at me like I was retarded and said to just put regular old fluid in it lol. I found the dry boiling point for the Wilwood 570 and it is 570 degrees F, but I cannot find a wet boiling point.
I also had people tell me they boiled the Motul until they learned how to use their brakes properly. I have the ATE sitting here so I am inclined to use it, then see if improving my braking style helps at all. I'll give it a whirl and report back.
I also had people tell me they boiled the Motul until they learned how to use their brakes properly. I have the ATE sitting here so I am inclined to use it, then see if improving my braking style helps at all. I'll give it a whirl and report back.
Apr 6, 2007, 03:13 PM
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Use the ATE if you like. It will be better than old wet stock fluid thats for sure. Seems as if EVERYONE who tracks hard however says Motul at the least and SRF if you got the sway. I just ordered the SRF but it was on backoeder from Hotlap so Kyle hooked a brother up with the Motul which I'm sure will do the trick as well.
Seems as if you have everything else in order but you may also want to consider the pad choice. I know folks who have had HP+'s fail and there are better pads available at a similar price. I went with the new Racing Brake 700s front and 500s rear.
Why am I doing all this? Well, I boiled the fluid at BeaveRun and it scared the poop out of me. This will not happen again!
Seems as if you have everything else in order but you may also want to consider the pad choice. I know folks who have had HP+'s fail and there are better pads available at a similar price. I went with the new Racing Brake 700s front and 500s rear.
Why am I doing all this? Well, I boiled the fluid at BeaveRun and it scared the poop out of me. This will not happen again!
Apr 6, 2007, 10:19 PM
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after you get the motul and a decent set of pads ducting is the next step
here are pictures of the install for the AMS/Forge kit
http://picasaweb.google.com/pureyang/2007_02_05 (these are my install pics)
http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...Brake%20Ducts/
read more about it in this thread
http://www.norcalevo.net/index.php?o...&topic=16155.0
enjoy,
-heeltoer
here are pictures of the install for the AMS/Forge kit
http://picasaweb.google.com/pureyang/2007_02_05 (these are my install pics)
http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...Brake%20Ducts/
read more about it in this thread
http://www.norcalevo.net/index.php?o...&topic=16155.0
enjoy,
-heeltoer
Apr 7, 2007, 02:59 AM
#22
well, you can heed the advice you asked for... or pump the gummyized crap of ATE out, once you boil it. It turns to a gel-like consistancy. Have fun bleeding that outta your lines 
Not familiar with the pads, but even now, if i push hard hard, i can boil motul, with pf 97 pads, and pf 2 piece rotors. However, if i'm free to run out there, im fine, but if i have to follow somebody, and brake earlier and easier, i'll mush the pedal.
I believe i'll be adding the ams kit here in the near future.
Finally, even after you pull off on the cool down, drive around the paddock at 10-15 mph, just keep the air moving. good for the brakes, AND the turbo.
Not familiar with the pads, but even now, if i push hard hard, i can boil motul, with pf 97 pads, and pf 2 piece rotors. However, if i'm free to run out there, im fine, but if i have to follow somebody, and brake earlier and easier, i'll mush the pedal.
I believe i'll be adding the ams kit here in the near future.
Finally, even after you pull off on the cool down, drive around the paddock at 10-15 mph, just keep the air moving. good for the brakes, AND the turbo.
....Looks like you really drive your evo
Apr 7, 2007, 06:40 AM
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Thanks for all the great replies and keep them coming. I'm sure there are other newbs reading this, and it probably even helps the experienced track drivers see what others are doing. The most important thing for the new guys is not to be scared about driving on the road course. Decent pads and fresh fluid are about the only thing you need for your first track day. Go out and get your feet wet. 
Apr 7, 2007, 08:45 PM
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I put my stainless lines on the car today and flushed with ATE blue. I'll be trailering the car to the track and bringing tools. My buddy has two bottles of Motul, so I am going to throw those in the truck in case the ATE boils on the track.
Apr 8, 2007, 07:21 AM
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Both fluids can overheat if you drive at 10/10ths. Even SRF. The difference between Wilwood and Motul is like choosing Mcdonalds or Burger King. Pic your favorite brand, they're both outstanding and much better than ATE.
Hawk make nice pads, they have for years. I used Hawk Blues for years on the race car. But they dont last very long, they groove the sh*t out of rotors when they over heat, and lots of dust. Theyre good, but theyre is better. Like the Reybestos ST's. These are the best pads I have ever used and we just won our championship with them. And these are the only pads I use now on the Prelude, but not a street pad. Hawks are great, and one of the most popular brands, theres just newer technology out there now and thats why/how Hawk came up with the DTC's. The DTC's are similar to the Raybestos.
No matter what track pad you choose, you should use either Wildwood or Motul. But you must put on brake ducts blowing into the center of the rotor forcing the air through the veins. Thats why AMS's kit is so effective, it does just that.
The factory air guides are pointless and ineffective IMHO.
Happy Motoring!!!!!
Hawk make nice pads, they have for years. I used Hawk Blues for years on the race car. But they dont last very long, they groove the sh*t out of rotors when they over heat, and lots of dust. Theyre good, but theyre is better. Like the Reybestos ST's. These are the best pads I have ever used and we just won our championship with them. And these are the only pads I use now on the Prelude, but not a street pad. Hawks are great, and one of the most popular brands, theres just newer technology out there now and thats why/how Hawk came up with the DTC's. The DTC's are similar to the Raybestos.
No matter what track pad you choose, you should use either Wildwood or Motul. But you must put on brake ducts blowing into the center of the rotor forcing the air through the veins. Thats why AMS's kit is so effective, it does just that.
The factory air guides are pointless and ineffective IMHO.
Happy Motoring!!!!!
May 10, 2007, 06:04 AM
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Just a little update, I had no problems at Mid Ohio this time. In my final session I pushed pretty hard (for me) and came right to the brink of pad fade, but it was on the last lap. No long pedal this time. I am going to Grattan next and with the 3000' straight I figured I better do something a little different so I ordered the AMS duct kit. I'm going to stick with the ATE and HP+ pads for now as this will likely be my last event for this year (we have a new member of the family on the way in July ). But next year I will definitely grab a stickier pad and look into some different fluid. The Castrol seems like you can get away with not flushing it for a pretty long time. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
). But next year I will definitely grab a stickier pad and look into some different fluid. The Castrol seems like you can get away with not flushing it for a pretty long time. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
May 10, 2007, 06:27 AM
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I have a very simple and functional brake cooling kit on its way (in production now) thats cheap and cuts front rotor temps from 20-30% !! I'll be posting pics soon.
-Kyle
-Kyle
