So I thought I was going to be in STU, but I just bought a new ACT clutch and Im thinking that will be killing that. Basically here is my mods, I need help with what class I can run in. I dont want to be "outclassed" as I am a newbie to auto-x. So the lowest class would be the best. Here is mod list for my 06 IX MR:

Swift MR springs
whiteline bump steer and trailing arm bushings
performance friction 2 pc roters
goodridge lines
ferodo ds2500 pads
MR BBS's w/ stock advan tires or 18x9 Advan RS's with 245/40/18 RE-01R's
Works downpipe/hfc/catback
megan o2 houseing
act clutch
zeitronix wideband
ecuflashed

No boost mods right now, im running stock boost.

I also did plan on running a lower icp and getting cosworth cams, so I need to know about those as well. I think this will all put me in BSP, but not sure. SP is lower then SM right? I think SM will outclass me and I will basically get owned hehe. Let me know what you guys think.

 

Well, you don't get to choose the class. You're in whatever class your mods put you in. Are you asking us to choose mods and tell you the different classes that you could be in based on different combos? I would think you should first go through the rules and learn the differences first, then maybe ask us. Otherwise, you're asking us to do all your work for you.

I believe 2pc rotors knock you out of STU, and so do any rims larger than stock. That gives you BSP unless you do cams, because cams put you in SM regardless of the rest. Boost control is allowed in BSP and SM, but not STU. SM is higher than BSP, but the PAX is pretty close between the two. They are both pretty high-level classes.

 

ACT clutch puts you out of STU and into BSP. LICP are allowed in BSP. Cams will put you in SM. If you didn't have the ACT clutch on your car, you could still be in STU. Personally I like STU because it limits you to the tires you drive on the street. BSP and SM both allow R-comp tires which means if you really want to be competetive you have to run R-comp tires.

 

the two piece rotors are not permitted in BSP... so if you don't qualify for STU, you get SM

and from my understanding, you are not allowed to have any changes past the compressor inlet, which means LICP, UICP TB mods are all illegal for STU. so SM it is

 

Well, you're in SM already, as has already been pointed out by the above posters, unless you're willing to undo some of those modifications.

I have an ACT clutch myself and 2-piece rotors myself, and there's nowhere to run such a car short of Street Modified. (Clutch not legal in STU, rotors not legal in BSP.)

Whether you are in BSP or Street Modified, your car as it stands will get you "owned" by any decent driver in a decent car on Hoosiers or V710s. (Yeah, the tires DO make that much difference.)

But don't worry about that. Compare your times to other cars on street tires. If you can (depends on your local club), run STU as "fun runs" (not classified for points/prizes).


Furthermore, you may find that the Evo is not that badly outclassed in Street Modified, at least at local events. AutoX still comes down to driving -- good driving is worth so much more than car prep. My first autoX, in a bone stock Evo on the stock Advan A046 tires, I would have placed 7th out of 20 if I had run Street Modified. Don't sell the Evo short -- it's quite a capable car right off the dealer lot. (Doesn't stand a chance against a purpose-built SM car, but you probably could figure that.)

 

Brake rotors are free and there's no restriction on wheels, just tire width.

 

Well, not quite free. The rotors must be the same or larger diameter compared to stock, and although I can't find the exact reference, I believe that the rotors must be metallic -- no carbon-fiber or ceramic rotors, etc.

 

opps, ya ur right, same size or larger, ferrous or aluminum alloy.

 

Ok thanks guys, thats exactly what I thought. Im going to try to squeeze a bit more out of the clutch, so will run in STU for a little bit. Once it goes, going to have to stick the act in and run in SM. Thats pretty much what I saw in the rules as well, but just wanted clarification. Sometimes the wording is pretty technical. I do have my BBS's still, think I'll be putting slicks on those soon

 

Or you can just put a stock clutch back in and stay in STU as your car sounds like it is already pretty well built to the rules of the class. Competition-wise, it normally is the largest class to play in locally and especially Nationally where it has the potential of being the largest class this year. Just saying...

 

I just bought the act is the problem >< I dont have it in yet, and it may be a bit before it goes in. Basically just bought in for a "just in case" scenario. Ive dragged a few times at the track, so I know it doesnt have much life left in it. I will try stu for now for sure though.

 

Well since it's not installed yet, you could possibly return it or sell it and buy yet another stock clutch. I'm just saying that you have a better chance of being competitive in STU as your car sits instead of putting a clutch in and trying to keep up with the faster BSP/SM guys. Autox is all about being competitive in your class and not just going "fast". Now you want to step-up and spend the funds for SM, by all means but I was just thinking about the best bang-for-the-buck as your car sits now.

 

Bs

 

Wow, thats exactly the type of attitude we dont need in autocross.

 

i heard the bumpsteer kit was only allowed in SM