EVO performance on a Track?
#61
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I was at a drivers school at Putnam Park last weekend...the evo did awesome...on the last run on the last day I was experiencing pretty high juddering in the steering wheel...i thought it might have been the rotors warping...but as soon as everything was cooled off the warp was gone....any thoughts?
#62
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My thought is that you used up your front pads at the track & its time for new ones. The juddering might be the warning bars the put in the pads to signal when its time to be replaced That was the case when I had a simialr problem.
My juddering was intermitant but usually happened when the brakes were cold. The rotors were ok, it was the pads that were shot. When I got new front Brembo pads (abt $260), they turned the front rotors too. The problem disappeared completely. BTW, the dealer did not have Brembo pads in stock, I had to wait 5 days for them to arrive (I also odrered an extra set to avoid future delays & to have pads to take ot the track for back up). My rear pads only had 25% wear and were not touched.
My juddering was intermitant but usually happened when the brakes were cold. The rotors were ok, it was the pads that were shot. When I got new front Brembo pads (abt $260), they turned the front rotors too. The problem disappeared completely. BTW, the dealer did not have Brembo pads in stock, I had to wait 5 days for them to arrive (I also odrered an extra set to avoid future delays & to have pads to take ot the track for back up). My rear pads only had 25% wear and were not touched.
#63
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Killa - I wonder if you had the infamous pad material transfer problem. I only experienced it once after tracking my car. It got a lot better with a bit of street use. I assumed the pads just wore off the excess pad material from the rotors, and the "warping" symptom went away.
I sure wish the Brembo pads were cheaper. I've switched to Ferodo DS2500 pads and I don't like them as much as the stock pads for track use. The Ferodo pads are cheaper, though. I haven't experienced any pad transfer with the Ferodo pads, though.
I sure wish the Brembo pads were cheaper. I've switched to Ferodo DS2500 pads and I don't like them as much as the stock pads for track use. The Ferodo pads are cheaper, though. I haven't experienced any pad transfer with the Ferodo pads, though.
#65
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I think the Ferodos have a lot of good features - lower wear rate than the Brembos, good fade resistance, and cheaper.
They also produce less dust, but I'm not sure this is a positive as I'm sure the rotors are wearing more with these harder pads.
I wish I could quantify this, but they feel like they have a lower hot coefficient of friction. When the pads get real hot, I feel I have to press harder on the pedal to get the same braking force. This is compared to the Brembos. It is not a big deal. Maybe I just got used to the Brembo pads and need to have more track time with the Ferodos.
992gnt - make sure to warm the pads up before demanding a hard stop from them at the track. I got a real scare at the beginning of one of my track sessions last weekend (Road America) with these pads. They seem to require more warming than the Brembos. Although they do work fine on the street for low-moderate braking when cold.
bottom line - The Ferodos seem fine, but definitely are different and may take some getting used to.
They also produce less dust, but I'm not sure this is a positive as I'm sure the rotors are wearing more with these harder pads.
I wish I could quantify this, but they feel like they have a lower hot coefficient of friction. When the pads get real hot, I feel I have to press harder on the pedal to get the same braking force. This is compared to the Brembos. It is not a big deal. Maybe I just got used to the Brembo pads and need to have more track time with the Ferodos.
992gnt - make sure to warm the pads up before demanding a hard stop from them at the track. I got a real scare at the beginning of one of my track sessions last weekend (Road America) with these pads. They seem to require more warming than the Brembos. Although they do work fine on the street for low-moderate braking when cold.
bottom line - The Ferodos seem fine, but definitely are different and may take some getting used to.
#68
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If you use the Ferodo 3000's make sure you wash off the brake dust ASAP!! It gets all over the wheels and body paint. Real hard to get off. It starts oxidizing too. Not pretty, but this is like any race pad.
#69
I went to VIR a few months back and ran on the north course. About 4 hours of track time (HPDE). I'm not sure what kind of gas mileage I was getting, but it was pretty awful
Totally worth it though.. :P
My thoughts on the car, The body roll didnt bother me much, hardly noticeable, I might have been concentrating too much on where I had to be , instead of how much I was leaning.
The evo was excellent on track. My instructor was pretty impressed with it.
The car has plenty of head room for a helmet.
The seats are very supportive. The steering wheel is the perfect size. Although the Speedo is too small, but who needs that on a track right?
The Intercooler Sprayer is nice to have.
Brakes were awesome! I upgraded to Super Blue fluid and Project Mu Titan KAI race pads before I went. Plus I had the OEM Brake Guides installed. No brake problems at all. It was perfect.
Everything else was pretty much stock on the car. I was hanging with some pretty nice corvettes and rx-7's through out the day.
The corvettes would leave me on the straights but I'd catch up pretty quick in the turns. Suprised a few I think.
The steering is phenomenal. I only had to worry about the understeer on a climbing turn, (cut through area) where it understeered a bit. Straightend out wheels and it grabbed again nicely. Next time I think I'll have the alignment set more aggressively, this time it was a stock alignment.
The tires do howl at the limit, but they were always predictable.
A instructor told me that it's better if you start learning on tires that howl that way you can hear the limit. Make's sense to me.
Overall, It was a blast driving this car on a track. It feels totally at home on the track.
People who aren't quite sure what a evo is, will definitely be suprised and have to stop and chat with you
Totally worth it though.. :P
My thoughts on the car, The body roll didnt bother me much, hardly noticeable, I might have been concentrating too much on where I had to be , instead of how much I was leaning.
The evo was excellent on track. My instructor was pretty impressed with it.
The car has plenty of head room for a helmet.
The seats are very supportive. The steering wheel is the perfect size. Although the Speedo is too small, but who needs that on a track right?
The Intercooler Sprayer is nice to have.
Brakes were awesome! I upgraded to Super Blue fluid and Project Mu Titan KAI race pads before I went. Plus I had the OEM Brake Guides installed. No brake problems at all. It was perfect.
Everything else was pretty much stock on the car. I was hanging with some pretty nice corvettes and rx-7's through out the day.
The corvettes would leave me on the straights but I'd catch up pretty quick in the turns. Suprised a few I think.
The steering is phenomenal. I only had to worry about the understeer on a climbing turn, (cut through area) where it understeered a bit. Straightend out wheels and it grabbed again nicely. Next time I think I'll have the alignment set more aggressively, this time it was a stock alignment.
The tires do howl at the limit, but they were always predictable.
A instructor told me that it's better if you start learning on tires that howl that way you can hear the limit. Make's sense to me.
Overall, It was a blast driving this car on a track. It feels totally at home on the track.
People who aren't quite sure what a evo is, will definitely be suprised and have to stop and chat with you
Last edited by TomsSound; Jul 2, 2004 at 08:22 PM.
#72
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Originally Posted by TomsSound
I went to VIR a few months back and ran on the north course. About 4 hours of track time (HPDE). I'm not sure what kind of gas mileage I was getting, but it was pretty awful
Totally worth it though.. :P
Totally worth it though.. :P
I'm in a similar situation. I've been out to a few HPDE events but never with the Evolution. If there was just one thing that you could "upgrade" the car with after driving this event, what would it be?
#73
Well, if you haven't upgraded the brake pads and the fluid . Do that first.
And the brake air guides. All of the instructors were advising everyone to spend money on their brakes first.
A manual boost contoller would be nice to hold boost at 19psi ,without tapering to 16psi.
If you've already done that, maybe a turbo back exhaust and a chip reflash. For a little more speed.
I'm guessing some tanabe gf210 springs and maybe a stiffer rear bar would help with the understeer and body roll. But it really didn't bother me much.
I did use these things called CG-LOCKS. They were great. I highly recommend them to anyone going to a track. http://www.cg-lock.com/
Hold's the lower half of your body in place for hard cornering. Super easy to use also.
You can buy 2 of them for about $75 bucks. Worth every penny. My instructor even liked them.
Other than that stuff... probably just save the rest of your money for new tires, hotel accomodations and gas.
And the brake air guides. All of the instructors were advising everyone to spend money on their brakes first.
A manual boost contoller would be nice to hold boost at 19psi ,without tapering to 16psi.
If you've already done that, maybe a turbo back exhaust and a chip reflash. For a little more speed.
I'm guessing some tanabe gf210 springs and maybe a stiffer rear bar would help with the understeer and body roll. But it really didn't bother me much.
I did use these things called CG-LOCKS. They were great. I highly recommend them to anyone going to a track. http://www.cg-lock.com/
Hold's the lower half of your body in place for hard cornering. Super easy to use also.
You can buy 2 of them for about $75 bucks. Worth every penny. My instructor even liked them.
Other than that stuff... probably just save the rest of your money for new tires, hotel accomodations and gas.
Last edited by TomsSound; Jul 3, 2004 at 09:51 AM.
#74
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The car's pretty much perfect as is. The biggest bang for the bucks is race rubber, but its a pain to haul the them to events & switch back & forth. A competition alignment is cheap and pays dividends, but reduces alrady short tire life. On tracks with a long straight stretch, shift around 6800 rather than the 7400 redline and you will go faster. I have never heard of anyone having problems with the stock brake setup: 14" front rotors are amazing heat sinks.
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I did ~50 laps at Nelson Ledges on Friday, and went through 2 tanks of gas. 50 laps x 2 miles=100 miles/28 gallons=3.6 mpg. On the plus side I outran several z06's, mustangs, and 944's with relative ease. I have the Tanabe springs and the Progress Group 25mm rear sway bar (set to the middle), running Kumho v700's and -1.7 camber front/-.7 camber rear. The car was a little tail happy in the first session, but a pressure adjustment took care of that pretty quickly. No understeer unless I did something stupid.
Has anyone else noticed how sensitive the car is to tire pressure adjustments?
Has anyone else noticed how sensitive the car is to tire pressure adjustments?