I told you that your car was a TTS car last year! And like Jason said, Mid Ohio times in TTA will be low 34's high 33's. My car had 36's in it for sure last year (although i couldn't find them!), but no way could I get into 33's with the current ruleset.

 

so what did TTS run at Mid-O? I just want to be in the group somewhat similar to my times. I know I have room for improvement, but not 5 sec. Also I know the car can be tweaked here and there, but still. So now I need to figure out, what the heck to do be in 1:36-1:38s.

Thanks guys for your comments, it cleared up a lot for me. Probably tomorrow I will sit down and get a complete breakdown to see where exactly I stand

 

1:36-1:38 are decent, but ultimately not going to win TTS or TTA. Your car will be TTS given the mods. Aim for 1:32-1:34 and the national winning time will be 1:31.

 

So, are you running 1:36-138s now, or are you trying to lower your times to get into that range? As far as TTS, TTA times:

2007 Nationals
TTA - 1:33.889
TTS - 1:33.136

But keep in mind that people make changes every year. I dont know anything about Mid-O, nor do i know anything about the competitors from last year (other than Greg) but i wouldnt be surprised if the TTS times are faster this year, eg a 1:31 like Jason noted.

 

damn, for me to get into 133s right now is pretty impossible. From looking at last year's times I might as well go into TTS, since it's not that limited. I might change couple things to shave some time and still be in TTS.

It's funny how in 2006 the best time TTR was 1:35 and TTA 1:36.8

 

Just because your car belongs in TTS right now doesnt mean its setup well for TTS. So there is hope for you to run much faster times. For instance, there is always going to be guys that run TTR, TTU, TTS because of their mods, but theyre the slowest guys in their group, and even sometimes slower than guys in lowered classed cars. Sometimes its simply because they lack seat time, and the rest of the time its because their car (even though it belongs in that group) isnt setup well/maximized properly for their class. Since youre an instructor im sure youre just as capable as everyone else. Im sure if you setup your car to better fit TTS your times will be more inline with the other TTS cars. All you have to do next is figure out how to better setup your car. That will come in time, so be patient. My advice is that if youre not sure about a certain setup, take the more inexpensive route first.

As far as the 2006 times at Nationals, the reason why the times were slower was because they ran the Club course that year. In 2007 they ran the Pro Course, which is the same configuration they are going to run this year at Nationals.

 

Very well explained Ed.

 

Thanks Ed,

That's exactly what I'm going to do right now. I will get with my builder tonight, pretty much he sets everything up on my car. I will go over the list of mods and points, and will try to figure out what is needed to get me faster and in the right spot

 

Optimizing the car to the class is key, and also the hardest part. Unfortunately once you get past TTA, it also becomes an issue of who spends the most. I haven't been paying much attention to TT this year, but i would guess a competitive TTA time will be high 33's, and TTS will be in the 31's. You will need to be right at the limit on power/weight, with huge tires to get there.

 

If i have the funds, and if its something im willing to do, i would love to run in TTS. I know that my car, relative to TTA, can be more competitive in TTS. However, it does become more of a financial burden.

 

just gave it a count. 73 points over TTC

for TTS whp/weight ratio comes out to be 9.02:1

Seems that I will land in TTS, just have to carefully plan my build and I still have some room to reach 8.70:1

 

I feel your pain, trying to do the same but i feel i'll end up in TTU by the time the "completeness" is done. I hate to have more of one then the other of x performance category, I'd prefer a fast, balanced build and then work out the rest from there. My strategy is to take as much weight out as i feel i need to, then see where the W/HP lands, and plan the motor mods from there (aka gut the car, install a cage, seats, harness, fire, and other safety bits, then work on power) LUCKILY we don't have any restrictions on suspension setup or tires so that's where I'd spend the dollars.

 

Ok, so here is a complete breakdown, this is what I came up with:

Method #1, going through TT classes:

Evo 8 starts in TTC + 14 points

Toyo tires +5 (To go with 265s +1, 275s +4, 285s +7)

Rear seat removed +3

Trunk carpet +1 (questionable if our carpet is considred a real carpet)

Rear bumper support +1

CF Hood +1

Evo 9 turbo +6 (I assume, because Evo IX is in TTB with 0 points, so 6 points away from evo 8)

Cams +6

ECU tune +10

Intake +1

MBC +4

FMIC +7

Fuel Rail +2

Downpipe +2 (?)

Cat-back +1

Test pipe/cat-delete +1

Coilovers +10

Rear Swaybar +2

Bump Steer Kit +2

Lip/splitter +1

Wing +2

Canards +2 (If I decide to install)

Vortex Generator +1

JDM Rear +2 (?)


GRAND TOTAL : 91 points (including starting 14 in TTC). If I'm right that lands me in TTU




Now power to weight method #2

last time stripped car and me = 3204 lbs with me in the car.

I estimate with the radio back in and panels It will be around 3300lbs. with me in the car

so 3300lbs./350whp = 9.43

weighing 3300 +.05

4 door +.4

AWD -.5

Toyo -.75

255s +.4


Grand total 9.03



Max horsepower I can achieve without going into TTU with this weight is 362 whp, but if I get my car to weigh 3500lbs I can maximum have 394 whp, not to me it seems better. 200lbs over 30whp.... What do you think???

 

I'd shoot for TT-S.....and save the 200lbs. It's much more important to have a lighter/nimbler car with the same Hp/Wt ratio.

 

that number is wrong. toyo's are dot approved so you don't take that .75 hit. that's only for not dot racing slicks.

you can go all the way down to 8.35/1
so 395whp as it sits.

8.7 base tts limit
-.4 4-door
+.5 awd
-.4 275-250 size tires
-.05 weight bonus
----------
8.35

btw greg(tt director) makes us add 10% to our whp because we use a mustang dyno here in norcal.
just so you know the dyno that you're using to base your numbers off of matters.

btw, you're going to be at a huge disadvantage using a toyo or any non hooser/hankook/bfg r1 type tire. those are on average about 2 seconds faster(we don't need to argue exact differences) than an r888/nt01 level tire.
if you want to be competitive then you should know this going in that everyone else will be on real tires.