Road Race Alignment recommendations...?
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Road Race Alignment recommendations...?
Alright, I need to realign my car.
I'm running KW street, 255/35/18 potenza re-01r. Up to this point I ran -2.7 camber front and -1.8 camber rear, 0 toe all around. I'm looking for something more aggressive. My thoughts were to run
-3.5 camber front
-2.5 camber rear
some toe in (don't know how much)
and then negative caster (but also need to figure out how much)
What suggestions do you have? Also how much psi should I run in RE-01R?
Thanks
I'm running KW street, 255/35/18 potenza re-01r. Up to this point I ran -2.7 camber front and -1.8 camber rear, 0 toe all around. I'm looking for something more aggressive. My thoughts were to run
-3.5 camber front
-2.5 camber rear
some toe in (don't know how much)
and then negative caster (but also need to figure out how much)
What suggestions do you have? Also how much psi should I run in RE-01R?
Thanks
I understand you would want constant force on the tires but why would you want to run toe in?
I have about the same suspension with 265 REO1Rs
but I shoot for -2.2* in the rear and about -3* in the front.
What do you feel the car should be doing that it is not doing?
Pushing? if so where? etc...
I have about the same suspension with 265 REO1Rs
but I shoot for -2.2* in the rear and about -3* in the front.
What do you feel the car should be doing that it is not doing?
Pushing? if so where? etc...
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Cleveland, OH
I understand you would want constant force on the tires but why would you want to run toe in?
I have about the same suspension with 265 REO1Rs
but I shoot for -2.2* in the rear and about -3* in the front.
What do you feel the car should be doing that it is not doing?
Pushing? if so where? etc...
I have about the same suspension with 265 REO1Rs
but I shoot for -2.2* in the rear and about -3* in the front.
What do you feel the car should be doing that it is not doing?
Pushing? if so where? etc...
Last edited by Evo8; Sep 10, 2008 at 01:49 PM.
I was debating in getting -2.2 or -2.5 I do have a mild oversteer. The car is no longer a daily driver so that's why I was thinking going -3.5 front. As for caster, I realize that nothing much can be done on an evo. Toe in - just going with what people suggested and drove the car on the track.
something we evo owners strive to get hahahIf that is the case I then your original pruposal would be correct. I would say 1/16''-1/8" toe in in the rear.
What little about front toe I know.
Front toe-IN gives straight-line stability but hinders turn-in. It would seem to be pretty good for a lot of highway driving and cruising where most of the driving will be in a line and at higher speeds. Probably not good for road course, track, or autocross since there's a lot of turning involved since turn-in will be reduced.
Front toe-OUT will help the car with turn-in and make the car feel like it always wants to enter a turn. But will also tend to make the car less stable in a straight line and cause it to follow lines and cracks. The car may feel twitchy which is probably not the best for highways but great for sport driving.
Zero toe just seems like a good balance and starting point from where you can make an adjustment to meet either one of the above requirements.
On a side note, there are (off center) bushings for the control arms that will give an additional few degrees of caster. So caster can be adjusted - but you need to change to these special bushings to do so.
Front toe-IN gives straight-line stability but hinders turn-in. It would seem to be pretty good for a lot of highway driving and cruising where most of the driving will be in a line and at higher speeds. Probably not good for road course, track, or autocross since there's a lot of turning involved since turn-in will be reduced.
Front toe-OUT will help the car with turn-in and make the car feel like it always wants to enter a turn. But will also tend to make the car less stable in a straight line and cause it to follow lines and cracks. The car may feel twitchy which is probably not the best for highways but great for sport driving.
Zero toe just seems like a good balance and starting point from where you can make an adjustment to meet either one of the above requirements.
On a side note, there are (off center) bushings for the control arms that will give an additional few degrees of caster. So caster can be adjusted - but you need to change to these special bushings to do so.
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Just an FYI, you want positive caster, not negative. Some camber plates let you play with caster a little bit.
I almost always recommend 0 toe for a track car, auto-x maybe not.
- Andrew
I almost always recommend 0 toe for a track car, auto-x maybe not.
- Andrew
Um. No. You don't want negative caster...ever.
http://www.vrperformance.com/mt/2006...plained_1.html
+3.5 to +4.5 is about all you can reasonably expect from off-the-shelf parts. You 'should' be close to that from the factory. Some people swear by that extra 0.75 degrees that they get from the whiteline or ground control plates. I can't tell a performance difference.
d
EDIT: What are you're springrates? You're camber settings seem excessive for street tires. If you are running really soft up front and really stiff in the rear, then that might make sense. Just looking at the camber gain of the front vs. rear I would expect you to be on like 250F and 800R springs. Of course such a car would be insanely loose.
I run -2.5F/-1.5R with stock sway bars and my car is PLENTY loose. Of course I have springs that were chosen specifically for racing on 140 TR street tires. I run slightly more front camber for autocross but it makes the car uncontrollable above 120mph.
http://www.vrperformance.com/mt/2006...plained_1.html
+3.5 to +4.5 is about all you can reasonably expect from off-the-shelf parts. You 'should' be close to that from the factory. Some people swear by that extra 0.75 degrees that they get from the whiteline or ground control plates. I can't tell a performance difference.
d
EDIT: What are you're springrates? You're camber settings seem excessive for street tires. If you are running really soft up front and really stiff in the rear, then that might make sense. Just looking at the camber gain of the front vs. rear I would expect you to be on like 250F and 800R springs. Of course such a car would be insanely loose.
I run -2.5F/-1.5R with stock sway bars and my car is PLENTY loose. Of course I have springs that were chosen specifically for racing on 140 TR street tires. I run slightly more front camber for autocross but it makes the car uncontrollable above 120mph.
Last edited by donour; Sep 10, 2008 at 02:41 PM.
I agree with Andrew about 0 toe-both ends..I prefer -1.1 to -1.3 at the back and I'm still searching for the best feeling (to me) for the front camber I tried -1.9 on the fronts at the last T.T. events and the car was very stable everywhere...BUT the front tires are telling me I need more front neg.camber. So next time out I will set the fronts at -2.2 and see what that does. I do drive the car to the track and back so I am searching for the best compromise in the settings. I have found that the tire wear has been the most accurate way to judge both the settings AND you driving style. I am still a learning Autocross driver but I do know that the settings for the road course do not relate to the AX..a good AX setting can be really scary on the road course..although driving sideways at speed is fun it's really not fast. Pete
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^^^ if you drive your car on the street you will be plenty happy with my old setup (-2.7 camber front, -1.8 rear, 0 toe all around) not too much tire wear and great for track
My springs rates are 6 and 8 (front to rear). So I will stick to 0 toe all around, I will put -3.5 camber front and -2.2 camber rear. That sounds like a great compromise. Thanks for the responses
My springs rates are 6 and 8 (front to rear). So I will stick to 0 toe all around, I will put -3.5 camber front and -2.2 camber rear. That sounds like a great compromise. Thanks for the responses



I meant understeer