Hey guys.
I'm going to autox this year and I wanted to try and get a heads up b4 I go to my first event. My mods are in my sig. I put down around 500WHP.

My worry is with my 30r I might need to down shift to first a lot? Full boost is about 4200 rpm. Will Lag be an issue?

I'm also needing a new set of tires and didn't know where to go on that route. My car is lowered (didn't know i was going to autox or else would have purchased coilovers) so I didn't know which tires I could get away with. I was thinking about just using my khumo spt's that came with the car when I got it and just use em till they were worn to the belts.....

And I run e85. Are there any rules about Fuel types?

 

Here is a picture of how my car sits. Just in case you wanted to see tire clearance.

 

Well you are for sure going to have to be in SM (Street Mod) or higher. I would definitely start in the Novice class if available. Here in Dallas, they have a rule that Novice class can't run r-compound tires, so it's a bit more fair. If you can't get into a N class, try and get into T (Street Tire) so you don't need rcompounds.

You'll want to try and get as much camber up front as possible. 3+ negative degrees.

Re: tires, I think using the tires you have now to learn is a great idea

 

I do a lot of driving. Is the camber something that I can adjust between events and dding?

 

If you have camber plates - yes. But changing camber will also change the toe at the same time so if you change one you have to change the other. Changing toe is not hard but you do need to know which direction to turn the toe adjuster and how much.

To know for sure you pretty much have to get it on an alignment rack (or use an alignment tool) and put the camber to "race" then count how many turns it takes to get the toe where you want it (usually zero or just a hair out). Then set the camber back to "street" and count how many turns until you get the toe back the other way (usually zero or just a hair in). Once you know the exact number of turns, then you'll be able to change it in 5 minutes.

As for lag -- it's always an issue so "we" just deal with it, stay in 2nd, and keep the revs up. As for fuel type - I have no idea but I'm sure it plays in somewhow.

 

As is always the case with someone who has already modified their car and then joins the sport, the find their mods put them in a very fast class. Don't let it discourage you. Focus on your own driving. The group I run with makes you run novice class your first three events no matter what. That will be a good start.

Tires are important, but for a rookie, I would run what you have for now unless you were about to buy tires anyways.

As far as camber goes, ideal would be at least 3 degrees of front negative camber, but again, don't go all out off the bat. You'll be able to get about -2 from the stock setup. Run that on the streets and track. Without camber plates, you won't want to adjust it for each event (let alone the fact that you'll change the toe when you change camber). It's just not worth it. Max out your front camber as negative as possible (again, should be about -2 degrees) and run zero toe at all 4 wheels. Otherwise you'll wear tires like crazy.

Finally, enjoy!

 

Thanks. I've read about tire pressure and everything else. I'm smart about my car but the camber and toe is something that I haven't messed with yet. Is there a specific set of camber plates I could get? Or is there an alignment tool I could buy to align the car myself? I was thinking you had to have the entire rack but I learn something new everyday

 

You want camber plates with spherical joints also known as pillowball mounts. I have no recommendations on brands. Any plates would be better than no plates.

There are alignment tools you can buy - just google it and you'll see. I've never used them. Easier and probably more accurate to go have it aligned on a laser system.

 

if you haven't done your own alignments, then don't worry about it. Toe will kill the tires faster than camber.

Since you are new to autocross, just go get a decent alignment from a shop you trust, and your goal for this year should be to get as much seat time as possible.

don't worry about setup.. (yet). That 30r might be a bit laggy on an autocross course. but don't worry about that for now.

Personally, I would concentrate on your driving technique. Be smooth, the smoother your inputs are, the faster you will be. Learn how to hit your braking zones, learn how to identify the tricky areas of the course during a course walk and you will do just fine.

As others have said, you might have a novice class, so get the stickiest street tire allowed (Ask the STU people for input)

have fun!

 

Another important consideration...

For most people when they first Auto-X, brakes aren't that big of a concern, because even stock brakes can get the job done when you're close to stock HP.

However, putting down near 500whp, you'll be going CONSIDERABLY faster than most on the course, and could cook your brakes real fast. You may want to dramatically dial down the boost for your first couple events or until you have a better braking setup.

Auto-X is rarely about HP... but more handling, tires, brakes and skill. Power is probably the last and least worried about thing.

So, to really help learn, run as little power or boost as you can. It doesn't matter how much 'driving' has been done or how comfortable you are with your car... once you start pushing it on a track or Auto-X, it's a whole new world.

 

I did two years in my GTI, haven't done any in my EVO yet, and I don't know if I will, I feel like it's not the best autox car, more of a road course car.

But some of the things I ALWAYS remember are
: "slower driving equals faster times", and this isn't literal, but basically if you can teach yourselfto nto slide so much on every turn by slowing down, you'll always have faster times.

always look far ahead, dont look down in front of your car, always be looking at what's coming after your current obstacle.

ALWAYS brake in a straight line. You naturally don't want to break before a turn, but by doing so, you can carry much more speed into/out of a turn, which is the biggest time difference possible. SO ALWAYS break in a straight line right before a turn in. Breaking while turning causes sliding/pushing/understeer and costs time/cone penalties

TWO HANDS ON THE WHEEL at all times, 9 and 3 o clock, and there's a difference in opinions on the best way to steer, but I was told by the older guys always shuffle steer, not hand over hand. So, for two years, whenever I'm driving I shuffle steer, and now it's second nature. I used to feel uncomfortable doing it, but now I feel weird steering any other way.

and last, quickest way from A to B is in a straight line, so minimize uneeded corrections, or quick jolts, make your steering feedback linear.


There's always more, but just have fun and dont worry about winning, just improve your own driving and take rides with the veterans.

 

Brings back the old saying...


"slow in, fast out"

 

Well i really don't want to turn down my boost... I'm not saying I'll be first (lol I don't care if I get last) but I've had this power for about a year and well I do feel pretty comfy with it....... I would like to know what you mean by "cooking the brakes." Do you mean i'll have excessive pad wear or do you mean I'll have heat spots on my rotors? And what can i do to prevent this?

 

And what should I do in order for a better breaking system? Slotted and drilled rotors?

Lets do it this way. The way my car sits... What would you upgrade on it. I have done nothing in the way of sway bars, brakes, brake cooling and have tien S springs. But this is my DD and is comfortable or nice to drive everywhere. So with that said give me your opinion.

 

I'd drive it as is until you KNOW that the car is the weakest link.

Note, the advice I gave is not what I did... and I know that masking/bandaiding the symptoms of my bad driving is making fixing the problems of my driving harder.

That said, I'd do brake lines and fluids and check your pads. If they are worn, swap them out for something with more bite. Check the sticky thread in the VIII/IX section. This is a safety thing for the most part rather than a go fast thing.