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What do I need to go rallying?

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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 01:15 PM
  #1  
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What do I need to go rallying?

Well I'm not really entering any real events....yet. But I wanted to know what mods would need to be done to my IX to safely take it on some very rough gravel and dirt roads without damage. Are things going to break no matter what? Will the paint be ruined?

I have a set of Team Dynamics 17 inch wheels, which I've heard are quite strong, and....I've got some mudflaps .

What kind of suspension?
Underbody shielding?
What else?
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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our paint sucks so that's obvious

you would benefit from tarmac based coilovers (ultra expensive) and raising the car somewhat for clearance purposes

it'd be smart to buy some aluminum or something and cut it to shield drivetrain components

and aside from that you really can't say what will happen for sure
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 01:56 PM
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From: Grand Island, NE
So much money that you don't mind when the car is on its roof. I don't have that much money so I am know as spectator.
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by drop24
I wanted to know what mods would need to be done to my IX to safely take it on some very rough gravel and dirt roads without damage. Are things going to break no matter what? Will the paint be ruined?
This whole statement is kind of an oxy moron. You will fvuck up your car at a rally event, trust me I know....







The stock suspension is fine, but if you have lowering springs put the stockers back on. I had to remove my front bumper for an event for clearance. I would also suggest getting a beatrush undertray.

If you can afford getting using your car in the purpose it was intended for, go for it.

Me on the other hand, got tired of hearing random chunks of dried mud drop out of my chassis while I was driving down the road, months after an event. Also, if you forget to roll your window up just once, you can kiss your interior good bye because of the dust.
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 02:07 PM
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From: NorCal
here's another good one:

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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 06:40 AM
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there are 2 kinds of rally drivers, those that have rolled a car and those that will. Carry a big hammer.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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DEEP POCKETS! hehe
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 03:12 PM
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this looks fun to do just not in my car
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cornercarver
here's another good one:

Awww... did you get y our EVO dirty?



No way man... THIS is dirty...







Dirty is what an EVO actually LOVES to be!!!

As for how to prep... underbody, wheel liners are an absolute must. Stock suspension will beat your belly up. Next go with a solid off road proven suspension package. Personally, I totally dig AMR but I have also ran DMS and Hotbits and 4 times the cost. I have a habit of jumping my car alot and the AMR holds up just as well as the DMS or Hotbits ever did.

Regardless of what you do for suspension, GET THE UNDERBODY PROTECTION ON THE CAR ASAP.

I build my stuff out of HDPE, High Density Poly-Ethylene. It's strong, super slick so it wont get hung up on stuff, will NOT dent or need replaced, has a super high flash point and is relatively cheap. I have 1/2 inch in front to the cross member and the pan and rear end is protected by 1/4 inch. Awesome stuff.

Mine bolts into the car. Works well and I can actually do jumping jacks on the front lip of my factory plastic bumper. SUPER strong.

Wheels... if you get the 17s, realize you wont be able to get proper rally tires for it. Snows or aggressive all season is the best you will do. And snows will result in, more often than not, pulling a tire from the rim... looks a bit like this (as demonstrated this weekend)


Starting out, you'll likely want to do Rally Cross. No cage required. If you commit to stage rally, go for a few NASA events to get y our coefficient points because RA wont let you drive an EVO as a rookie. 2 wheel drive only.

LOTS of ways to answer this, but the short of it is... your EVO will never be the same after you rally it. Depend on that.

Scott
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 05:42 PM
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From: Keene NH
You guys are nuts, but that looks like one hell of a good time.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 05:55 PM
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Holy hell that's a dirty car lol..

Expect to have lots of tire problems lol. I packed the bead on the second run that day! Fph...fph...fph...fph...fph...fph.....iisssshhhhh. ...
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by no cruise
there are 2 kinds of rally drivers, those that have rolled a car and those that will. Carry a big hammer.
I resemble that remark...sadly I'm in the first camp, but luckily it was a 323 GTX, not an Evo.

I have a 1/4" 6000 series aluminum skidplate that's pretty beefy, but I have put decent sized dents into it.

Like Scott, I use the HDPE stuff, but rather than using it on my whole car, I only use it from the area under the rear seats back to the rear sway bar. The floorpan area is coated in 2 layers of Kevlar. You can buy pre-formed stuff and bolt it on (big $$$) or when you're getting your roll cage installed, you can flip the car up-side-down and glue it right on (still costs $$).

I'm running Ohlins dampers on the car and they're sick!

AMS makes a brake kit designed for rally use, they're basically the largest Wilwoods you can fit under a 15" wheel (as opposed to their 15" drag kit which focuses on weight loss). I've been using the rally stuff for a season and a half and really like them so far, though I don't have any full stage rallies on the car yet. They're also not super expensive when compared to some of the other options like AP or Alcon.

Dave
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 07:04 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by DaveK
I resemble that remark...sadly I'm in the first camp, but luckily it was a 323 GTX, not an Evo.

I have a 1/4" 6000 series aluminum skidplate that's pretty beefy, but I have put decent sized dents into it.

Like Scott, I use the HDPE stuff, but rather than using it on my whole car, I only use it from the area under the rear seats back to the rear sway bar. The floorpan area is coated in 2 layers of Kevlar. You can buy pre-formed stuff and bolt it on (big $$$) or when you're getting your roll cage installed, you can flip the car up-side-down and glue it right on (still costs $$).

I'm running Ohlins dampers on the car and they're sick!

AMS makes a brake kit designed for rally use, they're basically the largest Wilwoods you can fit under a 15" wheel (as opposed to their 15" drag kit which focuses on weight loss). I've been using the rally stuff for a season and a half and really like them so far, though I don't have any full stage rallies on the car yet. They're also not super expensive when compared to some of the other options like AP or Alcon.

Dave

lol! well the rolling depends on the type of rallying hes talkin about.
if its just a minor dirt track like in the pictures, and you just want to have some fun, then just get some 15" wheels and i suppose stock suspension is ok.

but if you want to really rally. then throw the paint argument out the window
your car WILL get chipped, dented and possibly roll. lol

you'll need dirt suspension wihch is usually a bit pricey.
olins are good, had a set on my car... but i preffer my proflex.
tein also makes a decent dirt suspension that isnt that costly. a couple evos in jamaica have those on.. only thing that suspension i've found doesnt take jumps as well as the higher brand suspension like the olins or proflex. (thats if your gonna be jumping lol)

though dirt is ALOT cheaper than tarmac IMHO
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 07:36 AM
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These are DMS...




And believe it or not... I clapped them at this event.

Record jump though... 3'10" high, 28'9" long

Man, I miss my Talon.

Scott
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:26 AM
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RS&SPs are a good suspension choice. They're about the price of DMS 50s but better quality and more adjustability. Last year when I was pricing it out, they were ~$6,500, vs $11,000 for the Ohlins...both retail prices.

Dave
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