I'm working on learning to track my evo 10 and spent this year primarily working on the driver. It is my DD and weekend toy. I ran a couple of autocross events and four 3-day weekend events at a 0.75 mile road course (St. Lawrence Motorsports Park), which is really a go kart track large enough to run cars. Very safe place to learn - no walls, no more than two cars on track at a time, max speed is top of 3rd, etc. and I averaged about 100 laps per weekend. This track is very hard on tires and does not really allow any time for cooling. My car is essentially stock now, with OTS stage 1 map, short shifter/bushings, fog light delete, gauges, hawk hp+ pads, super blue brake fluid, and SS brake lines.

Based on what I have learned this year about the car:
1. The evo is a very capable car even in stock form (which is why I bought it).
2. I haven't reached the point where the car is the limiting factor, so I don't need to make big suspension or power mods. Primary plan is to continue working on the driver.
3. The car runs hot (285F max oil temps at filter with 10W30 mobil1 with 90F ambient after 10 hot laps)
4. I need better brake pads than the hawk hp+.

I also have a limited budget, so I am trying to make sure I have a reasonable mod plan w/o doing unnecessary changes. Based on the above, my planned modifications to the car before running at SLMP next year are:
1. Better brake pads (leaning towards Carbotech)
2. More efficient radiator and hoses
3. FMIC/UICP
4. Better tires - thinking Toyo R888 vs Dunlop Star Specs that I'm running now.

I am looking to try at least one HPDE event at a larger track next year (New Hampshire MS?), so my primary question is that I'm looking for advice on how my experience at the smaller track will translate in terms of the car mods. Based on what I have read, I was also considering a fuel surge tank or other means to address potential fuel starvation. So far, I always keep at least 1/2 tank and the smaller track doesn't have any long sweeping turns, so I haven't seen any issues.

Are there other things that I should be considering ahead of or in addition to the ones above? Thoughts or advice would be appreciated from those of you with experience with tracking the X.

 

I have a little bit of experience, so maybe I can help you out a little bit.

1. Yes, def need better brake pads. The HP+ will not last long at all on the bigger tracks. Carbotech, Perf Friction, CL, Hawk (DTC-60 or other racing pads), raybestos st-43, etc - read all the reviews and make a decision on your track pads. Get a separate set for track and street. Very simple job to swap pads, and really only need to do the fronts (of course you should do the same compound on all 4, but the rear brakes don't do much, so fronts are def necessary). Also I would recomend better fluid like Amsoil DOT4, or motul and possibly some Stainless lines to increase brake feel.

2. Not really neccessary, the cooling system on most evos, especially the X is very efficient. I have done multiple track days at 102* or higher (was 101* yesterday at Redline time attack!), and the temp gauge never goes above half. I would save your $ for something else.

3. FMIC not really neccessary, but I would look into an UICP. Cheap to buy (around $200-250) and decent gains in power. The FMIC will also pick up some power, but 500-1000 bucks is a bit more and you might need a custom tune with that.

4. Better tires are great, but will not last very long. Also, from my experience, the star specs wear VERY quickly on the track with stock suspsension. Guys with coilovers can run the star specs forever, but I am on stock suspension and just tore them up in 2 track days. So thats a personal preference, but I would still stick with street tires just due to cost and learning curve on street tires is more friendly.

Some other suggestions I might make for cheap/effective track mods are: Suspension!!! At least a rear sway bar. Possibly springs if on a budget. Coilovers if you can. And the fuel surge tank is a good idea, but generally if you are above 1/2 tank you won't see any issues, and it really only happens on long sweeping left turns (pushes all the gas to pass side of tank).

Well my fingers are tired LOL, but let me know if you have any more questions, and I'll try and answer for you.

And have fun!

 

Thank you very much for the advice - I appreciate the feedback. I was a little worried about the 285F oil temps, but really don't have much of a basis for comparison. As you said, the water temp display never goes beyond half, but I haven't logged the actual water temp yet.

 

I think Star Specs, Bridgestone RE-01/RE-11, and the like are great street tires to learn on. They'll give a lot of audible warning to let you know when they're going to give, and they have a high enough treadwear that they won't wear out THAT fast.

Kumho XS and Dunlop Star Specs are the best bang for your buck if you're being cost conscious.

The worst thing you can do as a rookie is upgrade to r-compounds. For one, they will mask your bad habits and you won't learn as much, and they'll be more dangerous, as they'll make significantly less noise to let you know you're about to go into a spin.

While suspension mods may be fun, I think it's a better idea to keep your car stock so you can learn its limits as-is and start to better understand what you need/want from it and what each mod will do.

 

I would get a few track days at a full sized track before you make any adjustments to the car, you will see how your experience on the smaller track will help you handle the additional speeds incurred on the larger tracks. Once you feel comfortable on the larger track, then I would follow your chosen upgrade path.

Once experienced, I agree with getting better brakes and tires, I have and would suggest to you, a spare set of racing brakes and a set RPF-1s with r-comps (Nitto NT-01) on them. At this point you can begin with the power modifications as you see fit. The stock suspension will be good for an additional 100 hp or so on R-comps. Once you maximize the race brakes and tires, you will be at the point where suspension components are needed to help you progress.

 

You guys really think the stock suspension is good enough for the track?

Maybe I've just been spoiled by driving buddys cars on coilovers, so I know how much better it feels. On my X I have a rear sway bar only (for suspension mods), but the car has so much body roll. I am rolling over the tires also (which did ruin my set of star specs in 2 trackdays). But then again, maybe my driving style is bad. Who knows...

 

Even though I'm a suspension vendor, I always recommend doing at least a track day or two on stock suspension. The only things you really need are good pads and fluid. And a good alignment, but that goes for a street car too IMO.

Do not get huge r-comps your first season.

- Andrew

 

I agree with earlier statemetns about getting on the track with the car stock, even brake pads and getting in some hot laps. Then upgrade the pads and fluid and go again. Then borrow some R tires or get some (try Nitto NT01 instead of the R888 personally, or Hankooks) and you'll really start to see some differences. if you still like it, and I suspect you will, roll up your sleeves....

 

I think you are on the right track and everyone's giving good advice. For me, budget is the MAJOR constraint behind the rate of my learning. I wanted to get a TBE myself, I was embarrassed at a test n tune when I couldn't hear or feel my own dang engine. The torque increase and lower spool point in RPMs is VERY nice. Sounds sexy sweet, worth a million bucks to me. But does spoil the back seat romance factor that it has stock.

Pads need to match tires; the Z1's, NT05's, "summer extreme" are the min level to run racing pads. If you have too lame of a tire, and everyone knows they wear fast and are expensive to replace, the racing pads will lock your ABS every 2 seconds. But for learning, stick with what you go. So stick with good street performance pads to got with your street performance tires. Wish me luck this weekend as I take my OEM A13c's and pretend they're slicks with Hawk DTC-60's; it's my sixth session, second season and I've plenty of life experiences with road emergencies, so I will go cautiously.

The stock suspension gets rave reviews from my instructors. Even tho they offer to sign me off, I never let 'em out of my car. I want extra distraction/challenge and any sage or funny comments. I just adjusted the stock camber bolt this weekend, I can already tell it's noticably more aggressive. Give that a try, it's just two nuts after you get your car off the ground.

I wouldn't move up to a more advanced suspension til you wear our a few sets of tires at longer full-sized track(s). The tires will cost you at 700-1000; a set of coil overs go for 900-1800. A sway bar is a good idea, but you may want to do these type of add-ons one at a time between your sessions. Net, that's my best advice, gradual changes per interval, never too much, avoid two unless they're tame.

And DO NOT turn that ASC off for 5-seconds at a full-size track. Oops, cement wall coming, and I was going backwards. AYC let me down, FWD didn't kick in and it will let you power slide into trouble at very high speeds, top of 3rd for me and my "incident".

 

One last thought on the more aggressive tires -- you may want to consider the price and inconveniece of changing them before the weekend, how you legally get them to the track (for MO, I can run them, but not in IL) -- in other words, budget a set of wheels when you start thinking along those lines. Since my trips next year may require > 250 mile treks, that's when I suppose the ante gets upped if I wanna keep feeding this addiction.

 

I did get an extra set of wheels so that I can change them at the track. Definitely helps for the case where you cord a couple of tires during the weekend and still have to get home. I would have to agree that at least for the small track I have been on the stock suspension is very well balanced and is certainly not a limiting factor for me yet. My intent is to make one change at a time and gradually learn. For me it is a lot of fun, but it is a hobby so I'm not in a big hurry. Definitely hooked already, though. Thanks again for the advice.

 

My advice is always to wait with the mods (unless there is an obvious preventative damage item). Let the car tell you what it needs and it will tell you once you are good enough. You will become a better driver faster in a stock car than in a modded car. This path will also be cheaper and you will learn a lot more about what different parts do.

Now your list of mods sounds sensible, but I would really try to push your stock parts to the point of needing an upgrade. Use your stock pads until you fade them (but upgrade the brake fluid!!). This way you will learn what it feels like. Anything made for racing will have a smaller margin or error/buffer built into them. So might as well learn on what things feel like on parts that have lots of warnings built into them. HP+ pads aren't that great BTW, I liked the stock IX pads better on the track.

Tires a big bang for the buck but again, are you really out performing your tires yet? Are they getting greasy from being overheated? Do you feel like you are constantly sliding? If no, keep pushing your stock tires.

Anyway, good luck!

 

[quote=c_reber;8686735]You guys really think the stock suspension is good enough for the track?

Absolutely! I don't get passed much at all when I do track days. It is all about the driver, but I am at the point where I am over driving the suspension, the r-comps and mid level race pads (HTC-10s). So coilovers, more aggresive pads and slicks are next on the list.

 

I also agree.

 

I guess I need to learn how to drive better with the stock suspension LOL. Every event I've entered, I am pretty far behind the person who gets first place. I come in second pretty much everytime. I guess its not the suspension (A LOT of people tell me it is), must be the driver

I guess second place isn't too bad (got another second at Redline last weekend), but a first place would be nice once in a while