In my quest to get more cooling to the brakes, I tried to upgrade the ducting.

I wanted to run 3" reduced to 2.5" but was unsuccessful. I just can't get around the oil cooler lines with a 2.5" hose without hitting the timing belt/pulley. Maybe I will work on relocating these lines over the winter...

Anyway, due to that, I had to step down back to 2" for the final run to the calipers. Advantages of the 3" hose in the bumper is that it fits real nice & snug. I hope the 3" will help air go through the S-bends better than before.

No idea if this works better than just the straight 2" I had before... in theory it should help.

For those adventurous to follow in my footsteps, I had to do some hacking.
1) Had to custom make those duct reducers.
2) Had to move the IC pipe up a little to prevent squishing the duct hose (even my 2" duct got squished before)

Here are some pics that are worth a 1000 words. Enjoy.

 

More pics...

 

I like your creativity. I wish I would have been able to figure out a way to incorporate the front holes of the IX bumper into my brake ducting. It seems like they were made for that purpose, but my JMF FMIC is blocking them and I don't want to move it and/or the IC pipes.

Instead I'm running 2" hoses with custom ducts mounted in the front bumper. I have < 2' of hose on either side and very few bends. It took me a while to come up with the design, but its worked well thus far. I'm able to do a 3 day HPDE in the advanced group on R-comps without so much as touching the brake fluid. Before the ducts I would have to bleed every two days otherwise I might get a soft pedal towards the end.

 

Got any pics to post up?

 

nope, but if you're coming to Monti on Friday I'd be happy to show you in person.

 

I'm curious and interested in your mount to the caliper? Where did you find it, or did you make it yourself?

 

It is the Forge Brake Duct Kit (I believe they are no longer manufacturing them)

Yeah, will def take a peak with my magnifying glass

 

yeah my nisei fmic won't let me mount the ducts to the holes in the bumper either

 

I did have to move my stock IC up a bit and make the bumper opening less deep to allow the hose to pass through... I had to do that for the 2" hose originally.

 

Not looking too bad.

I'm assuming you're still running the stock FMIC and piping? Because if you upgrade, the hole you're using on the driver's side gets insanely tight. I'm still using the opening, but the ducting ended up running almost straight down at a sharp angle then backwards as the larger inlet & piping of my AMS FMIC just takes up a ton of room.

 

yes, I'm still on stock almost everything. Yes, a larger (wider) IC would def get in the way there and depending on where the pipes go with aftermarket stuff, I can totally see it being in the way - especially if bigger diameter. Even with the stock stuff, it is a real tight fit and I had to do some shifting around and cutting to make it fit.

 

Well, I think this rig worked a little better than the straight 2" all the way. My caliper temp stickers read 475F instead of being off the scale at 500+F. Note that I also had some thicker pad shims in there this time so that could have had an effect as well.

 

Yep, in theory it should help. Couple things for you to think about if you havent:

1. Try to minimize the bends.
2. Increase the size of your air inlet compared to the size of your hose.
3. Try to tie together your hose and those OEM air inlets so that the transition of air is seamless in transition. Otherwise, air is going to escape around the hose thereby minimizing air flow into the hose.

I know room is super limited, but those are the issues you need to tackle if you have to keep your front end relatively OEM. I have some pics of my setup. When they are ready i will post a few pics in my thread:

- Results: Ed Nazarian racing at 2010 NASA National Championship (Super Touring Evo 9)

 

Thicker pads make a HUGE difference in heat transfer. Especially if you're running longer sessions. I toss my pads when they start to get low - if I know they won't make a full day they're yanked while I'm at home to safe potential issues and the hassle of changing pads at the track.

 

There is a brake duct thread already that has some ideas already ... I posted pics with custom reducers with anti slip beads... if you need any of those email me ... I'll tell you where to get any size reducer cheap

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...cts-setup.html