Building up an SM Evo for autoX
Originally Posted by Evo8RA
I purchased Joe250's CCW wheel/tire combo to use next season in SM and have no problem in telling everyone the backspace/spacer combo specs if it will help you figure out your setup.
Joe used a 10mm hub-centric spacer on front and no spacer on the rear. All four wheels were 18x10" with the same backspace on each, so they could be used on front or rear. When used on the rear, a small ring insert was placed in the center of the wheel to make it hub-centric. The front spacer and rear ring were custom machined by CCW. The wheels are currently in shipping from CA to TX. I will take a careful backspace measurement next week when they arrive, or the weekend that follows, and let you know. Joe also needed to use longer wheel studs and open lug nuts for them.
I was also thinking about trying to adapt the new 17x10" 5-Zigen FN01R-C for the Evo. I checked with my local Discount Tire store (DT sells 5-Zigen wheels) and their local distribution center had two of the 17x10" +35mm, 5x114.3 in stock and they are only $229 each! New CCW's are $450 each with spacers/longer studs extra. The spacer issue for the 5-Zigen would have to be worked out based on your particular coilover clearance and clearing the calipers. Caliper clearance was the issue with the CCW's that required the 10mm spacer and seems to be about the same size that ChrisW is using with his 17x9s. Fenders would require a bit more rolling than the 9-inch wheel and you could use the less expensive Kumho 275/40/17 tires. Joe250's front fender lips were rolled until near flush and then the roller tool used at a 45 degree angle to pull the fender edge up and out just a bit. I'll find out exactly how much when I roll mine.
My biggest concern was whether the 30 series or 40 series tire would be better, considering corner turn-in and acceleration out of the turns. I went with the 30 to help with turn-in, but I think a good driver can do well with either tire.
Good luck with your own setup,
Mark
Joe used a 10mm hub-centric spacer on front and no spacer on the rear. All four wheels were 18x10" with the same backspace on each, so they could be used on front or rear. When used on the rear, a small ring insert was placed in the center of the wheel to make it hub-centric. The front spacer and rear ring were custom machined by CCW. The wheels are currently in shipping from CA to TX. I will take a careful backspace measurement next week when they arrive, or the weekend that follows, and let you know. Joe also needed to use longer wheel studs and open lug nuts for them.
I was also thinking about trying to adapt the new 17x10" 5-Zigen FN01R-C for the Evo. I checked with my local Discount Tire store (DT sells 5-Zigen wheels) and their local distribution center had two of the 17x10" +35mm, 5x114.3 in stock and they are only $229 each! New CCW's are $450 each with spacers/longer studs extra. The spacer issue for the 5-Zigen would have to be worked out based on your particular coilover clearance and clearing the calipers. Caliper clearance was the issue with the CCW's that required the 10mm spacer and seems to be about the same size that ChrisW is using with his 17x9s. Fenders would require a bit more rolling than the 9-inch wheel and you could use the less expensive Kumho 275/40/17 tires. Joe250's front fender lips were rolled until near flush and then the roller tool used at a 45 degree angle to pull the fender edge up and out just a bit. I'll find out exactly how much when I roll mine.
My biggest concern was whether the 30 series or 40 series tire would be better, considering corner turn-in and acceleration out of the turns. I went with the 30 to help with turn-in, but I think a good driver can do well with either tire.
Good luck with your own setup,
Mark
Good luck on the fender rolling. I remember when Joe first started his saga of rolling the fenders.... Well, lets say Joe took it like a man, as they had to figure out the hard way the extreme limits of the fender rolling that was required.
Be sure to use a heat gun to heat the paint so it won't chip, more like flake off in large chunks
(glad I know some people with a body shop 
)
Originally Posted by chrisw
FWIW, I only need to use a 3mm spacer in front for my setup. Initially they were more for the rims to clear the calipers than for coilover clearance, but in the long run I need them to clear the coilovers as well.
Good luck on the fender rolling. I remember when Joe first started his saga of rolling the fenders.... Well, lets say Joe took it like a man, as they had to figure out the hard way the extreme limits of the fender rolling that was required.
Be sure to use a heat gun to heat the paint so it won't chip, more like flake off in large chunks (glad I know some people with a body shop )
Good luck on the fender rolling. I remember when Joe first started his saga of rolling the fenders.... Well, lets say Joe took it like a man, as they had to figure out the hard way the extreme limits of the fender rolling that was required.
Be sure to use a heat gun to heat the paint so it won't chip, more like flake off in large chunks
(glad I know some people with a body shop )
I have a friend with a little one-man body shop that has done work for me for about 15 years. I'm going to work with him to get the fenders rolled correctly with minimal damage, I hope.
Originally Posted by JT-KGY
Evo8RA,
Could you take some pictures when you do the fender rolling to fit
the 18x10"? I like to eventually fit 275s...
Could you take some pictures when you do the fender rolling to fit
the 18x10"? I like to eventually fit 275s...
Originally Posted by Evo8RA
Joe told me the unpleasant stories of his fender rolling. Last weekend while the mechanic that did the job explained the rolling technique to me and that the extra dents in the fenders were just from normal "wear-and-tear" use, I could see Joe in the background rolling his eyes so as to indicate "Yeah, right". I have a friend with a little one-man body shop that has done work for me for about 15 years. I'm going to work with him to get the fenders rolled correctly with minimal damage, I hope.
I have a friend with a little one-man body shop that has done work for me for about 15 years. I'm going to work with him to get the fenders rolled correctly with minimal damage, I hope. "normal wear and tear" jeezz... for a while you could compare the wrinkles before and after they did their runs.... In the end the tires won that argument. 
Originally Posted by Evo8RA
The wheels are currently in shipping from CA to TX. I will take a careful backspace measurement next week when they arrive, or the weekend that follows, and let you know. Joe also needed to use longer wheel studs and open lug nuts for them.
Mark
Mark
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
Can you be a little more specific about what you mean by "heavy fender rolling"? Pictures would be ideal, but a description would be good too. Thanks.
It will also be hard to avoid damage to the front fender liners when running the 285/30/18 tires. Joe250's had been eaten up by these monsters.
Originally Posted by Evo8RA
It will also be hard to avoid damage to the front fender liners when running the 285/30/18 tires. Joe250's had been eaten up by these monsters.
I'm not sure I'd recommend removing the fender liners on a street-driven car; it seems like it would be awfully easy to kick up a lot of mud onto the accessory belt. And I'm sure someone could come up with other potential problems.
Joe's car was running in ESP, so the fender liners had to stay...
I'm going the opposite end of the spectrum next year, going to slower tires. I'm probably going to run 255 Toyo RA1s that way I can drive them to SCCA events and road course events without having to bring a second set of tires and the tools to change them. And I might even switch to a more 'comfortable' set of coilovers from the JICs I run.
Do the wheels really weigh 20+ lbs?
How about the spacers?
How about the spacers?
Originally Posted by Evo8RA
I took a careful measurement of the backspace on the 18x10" CCWs and it is 6 7/8". As I mentioned before they are used with a 10mm spacer in front and no spacer in rear, but with heavy fender rolling. The overall wheel width is approximately 10 7/8 and the 285/30 tires extend about 1/8" out on each side from this measurement giving you 11 1/8" overall width. Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by JT-KGY
Do the wheels really weigh 20+ lbs?
How about the spacers?
How about the spacers?
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
I have CCW 10.5x18s - they are a little under 25lbs each. The rim shells are very heavy, engineered for heavy car street use. I believe mine are the same spec as the ones supplied for Evos as there is a limit to the offset CCW can achieve.
Kodiak considerably are considerably lighter and not much more expensive.
Charles
Kodiak considerably are considerably lighter and not much more expensive.
Charles
I had mesh CCWs on my Camaro in 16x10 and they were 17 lbs. each. I used to be a fan of CCW when they were a small operation selling great wheels for small dollars (I paid $260 each for mine in 1997), but their prices have risen considerably and their wheels have neither the good looks nor the lightness of other wheels that are now similar in price.
CCW
CCW