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Building up an SM Evo for autoX

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Old Oct 19, 2004, 11:38 AM
  #151  
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Weight of the CCW wheels are mainly determined by the amount of offset the
wheels have. Using spacers instead of wheel offset will save some weight.
So I was told by David at CCW.

So I'm wondering how much does a 18x10 with EVO offset & spacers weigh??
I plan on getting a 17x9.5.. which hopefully will be lighter than 17lbs.

Originally Posted by ACM
I have CCW 10.5x18s - they are a little under 25lbs each. The rim shells are very heavy, engineered for heavy car street use. I believe mine are the same spec as the ones supplied for Evos as there is a limit to the offset CCW can achieve.

Kodiak considerably are considerably lighter and not much more expensive.

Charles
Old Oct 19, 2004, 06:22 PM
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I hear all this talk about CCW rims... If your willing to spend the money on CCW rims, why not go with a known lightweight forged rim like Volks or something similar?

I went to Gruppe-s and bought some used buddy club forged rims that are light as hell... (17x9, 14.5lbs). Bad news was you needed a spacer to clear the calipers, good news was you needed the spacer to get the race tires to fit so it all worked out...

The less rotational mass you get, the faster you will accelerate, does not matter how big you tires are.... If you have a 25lbs rim, I am willing to bet that I can out accelerate you given the same power mods (like stock for instance) because I have a 10lbs advantage per rim...

just my $0.02
Old Oct 19, 2004, 06:36 PM
  #153  
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Like I said.. CCW rims weight depends on the offset... thats why I'm asking
how much does those 18x10 weigh from Joe250. I remember hearing that they
are about 20lbs each... however in the same time I also remember some BMW
guys bought a set of 17x9s that are under 17lbs each.

Known lightweight forged wheels are good.. but most vendors sell very small
sizes (8.5???). It's hard to find sizes wider than 9.5. And even with 9.5 it's
difficult to find the correct offset/caliper clearance combinations (since no one
tried it).

As far as those buddy club rims... what offset did your friend use? How big
of a spacer needed up front?


Originally Posted by chrisw
I hear all this talk about CCW rims... If your willing to spend the money on CCW rims, why not go with a known lightweight forged rim like Volks or something similar?

I went to Gruppe-s and bought some used buddy club forged rims that are light as hell... (17x9, 14.5lbs). Bad news was you needed a spacer to clear the calipers, good news was you needed the spacer to get the race tires to fit so it all worked out...

The less rotational mass you get, the faster you will accelerate, does not matter how big you tires are.... If you have a 25lbs rim, I am willing to bet that I can out accelerate you given the same power mods (like stock for instance) because I have a 10lbs advantage per rim...

just my $0.02
Old Oct 19, 2004, 06:38 PM
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There are several nice things about CCW wheels: you can get any backspace you want, they are three piece so you can change width/backspace easily, and they are durable. My 18x10 wheels weigh about 21.5 pounds with spacers and they could get almost a pound lighter per wheel with titanium hardware. Yes a Volk CE28N or equivalent will weigh maybe 4 pounds less per wheel if you're lucky - I have a pair of 17x10 CE28N's that weigh 16.5 lbs each. Of course if you want wider than 10" the 1 piece forged wheel selection is a little scarce.
Old Oct 19, 2004, 06:54 PM
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I know that Volk, 5Zigen, and a few others have 17x10 forged rims.. They are bank though...
Old Oct 19, 2004, 09:01 PM
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Do LE28N weigh different than CE28Ns?
I remember my friend's LE28N 17x9s weigh a bit more than 17lbs.

Originally Posted by 93esp
There are several nice things about CCW wheels: you can get any backspace you want, they are three piece so you can change width/backspace easily, and they are durable. My 18x10 wheels weigh about 21.5 pounds with spacers and they could get almost a pound lighter per wheel with titanium hardware. Yes a Volk CE28N or equivalent will weigh maybe 4 pounds less per wheel if you're lucky - I have a pair of 17x10 CE28N's that weigh 16.5 lbs each. Of course if you want wider than 10" the 1 piece forged wheel selection is a little scarce.
Old Oct 20, 2004, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by JT-KGY
Do LE28N weigh different than CE28Ns?
I remember my friend's LE28N 17x9s weigh a bit more than 17lbs.
LE28Ns come with suprisingly hefty center caps, where as the CE28Ns do not. I'm not sure that's where the difference comes from, but it's the best I can come up with. From what I understand, other than the caps, the only difference between the CE28N and the LE28N is the paint job. And FWIW, my LE28Ns are actually labeled from the factory as CE28N-L...

JW
Old Jan 17, 2005, 05:04 PM
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Lets revive the thread, Just curios what everyone is doing in SM with a year or two of research behind them
Old Jan 17, 2005, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Greyman09
Lets revive the thread, Just curios what everyone is doing in SM with a year or two of research behind them
I'm still waiting on some things for the 2005 season, so I can't really state for sure what I absolutely will do.

Two major changes for 2005 which are basically a certainty, and which should yield most of my projected performance increase:

- Bigger tires, either 275 or 285 section width. Will likely require spacers, new wheel studs, and fender modification.
- Quaife front LSD.

Other things I'm considering, with a rating from 0 to 10 showing how likely it is that I'll do it:

- Harness (9).
- Test pipe instead of high flow cat (9).
- Lightweight battery (8).
- Replacement of mid-pipe and muffler with a short "turn down pipe" (8).
- Removal of fender liners (8).
- Retuning the engine for improved low-end torque (8).
- Double adjustable shocks (7).
- Twin plate clutch & lightweight flywheel, with stainless steel clutch line and restrictor removal (7).
- Replacement of passenger seat with lightweight racing seat (7).
- Removal of rear seat belts and rear stereo speakers (7).
- Removal of intercooler sprayer -- for weight reduction (6).
- Replacement of steering wheel with lighter non-air-bag wheel (5).
- Replacement of driver seat with lightweight racing seat (5).
- Swap HID headlights for non-HIDs (5).
- Swap trunk lid for a lighter RS trunk lid (5).
- Removal of entire stereo (5).
- Removal of A/C compressor (4).
- Swap doors for lightweight RS doors (4).
- Turbo upgrade (3).
- Stroker kit (2).


Note that quite a few of my likely mods are also Street Prepared legal.

The car has been retired as a daily driver, so I'm a little more free to make drastic changes than I was a little over a year ago when I started the SM experiment.

But frankly, I'm not sure that drastic changes are needed. Certainly the LSD and some monster rubber will make the car faster, and weight reduction is always welcome. You can see that about a dozen of my proposed changes are related to weight reduction. The car weighed 3040 pounds the last time I weighed it. Depending on how aggressively I reduce weight, I expect to be somewhere between 2900 - 3000 pounds this season.

I'll try to get as many changes done by the Atlanta ProSolo (in April) as I comfortably can. That will be the first test against national level competition, although I should be able to judge myself against Lee Piccione's BSP M3 at our first local event in March. His car won a few national events running in SM in 2004 (with multiple national champion Matthew Braun driving). If I want to be nationally competitive, I've got to be beating Lee at least occasionally.
Old Jan 18, 2005, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrennen
- Bigger tires, either 275 or 285 section width. Will likely require spacers, new wheel studs, and fender modification.
You might want to add an Accusump or new oil pan/pickup to your list of modifications if you're going to add big rubber. My engine showed signs of oil starvation when I pulled it apart this winter.

Eric
Old Jan 19, 2005, 03:39 AM
  #161  
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Did you have an engine failure, Eric? What were those signs of starvations that you saw?
Old Jan 19, 2005, 04:50 AM
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I didn't have a failure. During the season I replaced rod bearings a couple times because of persistent knocking and the bearings didn't look good even after a couple events. When I finally pulled the engine apart there was noticeable wear on the cylinder walls and pistons.

Eric
Old Jan 19, 2005, 09:47 AM
  #163  
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Ouch. That's the first I've heard of this sort of problem with autocrossing an Evo. Seems that either (1) your Evo was defective, (2) you corner a whole lot harder than others, and/or (3) you run your motor a lot harder (particularly high RPM) than others.

Have you heard of other autocrossed Evos having engine issues like this?
Old Jan 19, 2005, 10:01 AM
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I don't think there are too many people that have inspected the internals of their engine after autocrossing. To illustrate the cornering capability of my car - with the 285's and low ride height I was lifting both inside wheels of the ground routinely in sweepers and slaloms. The car will have a wider track this year.....

Eric
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