I'm running a B&M short shifter, but it honestly doesn't do much for autocross. Most courses you shift into second and leave it there until you're done. But as for road courses, I find the B&M to help a little, although the knob seems farther away from me than it should be.

 

You mentioned Ti exhaust, here's a potential lead:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=54313

If he really comes through that's a significant price savings over the imported stuff. He also said he's going to sell just the cat-back as well.

 

Erp. A few questions:

1. I was under the impression that "autocross alignment" is very annoying for a daily driving and could cause severe tire wear issues?

2. Also, I was under the impression that street mod was more or less dominated by purpose built racers: trailer queens. Are you sure you'll be competitive against a 500lbs race car that pulls 2gs? Espically since many fo your mods seem like they would add weight, not reduce it? (edit: Unless you are thinking SM2, in which case I'm a moron...)

 

The only alignment change I can think of which is annoying in daily driving is running any significant front toe-out -- which causes the steering to be hypersensitive and also leads to quickly wearing the inside edge of the front tires. But adding rear toe-out and increased camber all around are not particularly annoying, nor do they cause as much accelerated tire wear; in fact, they may decrease tire wear if the car is driven aggressively on the street.

Street Mod is the class for "streetable sport sedans" ... The minimum weight is 1800 pounds for a FWD car, 2200 pounds for a RWD car, and 2400 pounds for an AWD car. Most Street Mod competitors are not particularly close to the weight limit, because the rules of the class bar drastic weight reduction changes. Basically, you have all of the Street Prepared or Street Touring modifications allowed, free modification of the drivetrain (with manufacturer restrictions on the engine block), and some body panels can be replaced.

Most of the modifications I'm planning either reduce weight significantly or add a minor amount of weight. Even so, I know it's not realistic for me to get anywhere near the 2600 pound minimum for a turbo AWD sedan. I figure about 3000 pounds with 1/4 tank of gas is a realistic goal. Not cheap, not easy, but realistic.

At the Nationals this year, the top three SM cars were BMW M3s. I can't say for sure, but I'd guess none of them was all that close to the minimum weight.

I think that if I have sufficient motivation and money (probably only $10K - $15K total investment is needed), it would be possible to have a daily driven Evo which can get 400 WHP on race gas and weigh in under 3000 pounds when prepped for autoX. I guess I think that such a car would have a good chance to be pretty competitive in SM.

I think there are only two classes in autoX where you'll see 500 pound race cars... A Modified or FSAE. (You'll see even lighter vehicles in the kart classes...)

 

I already have the 3" Buschur turboback in my garage awaiting installation. Everyone says it gives the best power numbers and is already fairly lightweight. I couldn't afford to wait for an unproven Ti system which might not be delivered in a timely manner -- I want to have the essential power mods (exhaust & cams) installed in time for Shiv to tune the car when he comes to town here in late January.

 

You could drive an SM car daily, but either it will be woefully under-prepared, or it will break constantly and beat you to death.

Competitive SM cars are by definition traler queens - check out bimmerhaus and farnorthracing for just what it takes to get anywhere near competitive. That or you better be a Tunnel/Daddio/etc driver.

Charles

 

Just an update on my progress...

The first round of major power mods are all done:

- XEDE
- 3" Buschur turboback (w/ high flow cat)
- HKS 264i/272e cams w/ adjustable cam gears

I haven't dynoed the car yet, and I'm waiting for Shiv's custom tune at the end of the month; based on other dyno graphs I've seen with similar modifications, I expect the car to have more HP at 4000 RPM than a stock Evo's peak HP, and lots of power up high.


The stock clutch can't handle a 6000 RPM launch with these mods -- don't ask me how I know... The clutch holds fine under WOT when fully engaged, but maximum launches are out of the question. I'll probably try backing off the launch RPM to 3500-4000 -- with all the additional power, it might be able to launch at that speed without bogging. After the XEDE is dialed in, I'll have to make the big clutch decisions -- new clutch? Replace clutch lines? Remove clutch restrictor?

New modifications in consideration:

- High capacity fuel pump, like a Walbro 255 lph. This one is pretty much a done deal, it's cheap and easy to install, with no real downside.

- ARP head studs. Maybe not a crucial upgrade at these HP and boost levels, but a reliability/safety upgrade.

 

With the XEDE, 3" exhaust, cams, and cam gears... Yes, yes, the Evo can launch hard at 4000 RPM without bogging and without unreasonably stressing the clutch (no smell afterward).

 

LOL, you're testing in the snow?

 

No, actually, dry roads earlier this evening... The icon was a sign of happiness, not humor.

What I really need is some instrumentation, like a G-Tech Pro, to actually quantify the launch characteristics. 60' times, 0-60 times, that type of thing. Just to figure out whether my "butt dyno" is way off base or not... Because it felt good.

 

We can those tests with our data logger I was actually wondering if it would work with the Evo; it should but have not tried it before.

 

I'm going to bump this!

My first year of Autocrossing; what a blast! (2 Events so far)
It's a lot of fun just going out, but I want to be competitive!
I'll hone my driving with practice and school, but what should I do to tweak my car?
Where should I spend my money?

My car:
03 Evo
Buschur Intake/Exhaust
AEM EMS/Wideband/MAP Conversion
340WHP/332Torque Dynojet
Progress Rear Sway Bar set at stiffest (Switching to middle setting)
Tein S-Tech (Too low)
Schroth 4 Point Harnesses (Need way to mount higher for daily driving)
Carbotech Pads (Front - Stock on rear *Too Loud*)
SS Lines & Motul Fluid
(Car was stock alignment - WAY OFF - at both events - aligned yesterday)
-1.9 Camber Front - 0 Toe
-1.5 Camber Rear - 0 Toe
Kuhmo MX 235/45/17 (COLD 42Psi front/39Psi rear)

Sitting in the garage:
Derekdevises Methanol Injection Kit (Selling - Drag racing is boring )
JUN 272 Cams
ARP Head Studs
Hoosier RS04 245/17 TDR Wheels (Going on following Evolution School)

Now, besides my driving (Attending School next month)
Where should I spend my money

[Limited funds due to car payments/track & efi school/helmet/winter tires]

Sell JUN cams and Purchase RRE JIC Suspension? (Funds allow next week)
Save up and do JUN Cams/Springs/Retainers/ARP/Gears & RnR intercooler? (Funds in August)
Sell JUN cams and purchase Trunk Bar/Rear Strut Bar/Lower Bars/Ferrodo F&R Pads? (Now)

 

You are missing the most critical component for autoxing IMHO: suspension!!!

 

^^^ He's right! Adding coilovers to my car made a HUGE difference in cornering and track performance. Get the JIC set-up from RRE and know your suspension is properly dialed in right from the start. That would have saved me months of trial and error trying to get them dialed in.

 

Sparco is coming out with a bolt-in harness bar for the Evo in a few months.

And I agree, you need suspension. JIC coilovers are a great way to go. I wish I had gotten them instead of my Teins. Also, you might want more camber, especially with sticky tires. Most of the ESP and SM Evos I see are running -2 to -3 camber up front, and a little more than half that in the rear. Just a thought, though, as it may depend on your driving style.