For kevlar under body etc use these guys.
http://www.magnummotorsport.co.uk/competition.html

Ive been dealing and buying off them for years. Good products, but they dont return emails (must be new technology for them) so just call them. They've shipped stuff to me in the US before without issue, and sent stuff to me down here in OZ.

JD

 

Dave deppends on your budget. the Aluminum plates are good and the weight differnce is not that big, you need just to buy a right type of aluminum. SO anything happens with it /which is usually do /you can weld it fix it much much cheaper, then the kevlar one.

Just to think about this point too

 

All great points! I honestly thought the skidplate was going to weigh in closer to 45 lbs, but its withstood 3 years of hillclimb abuse and my BFH.

The one thing that I do have is some great friends who do composite work. They built two winning RedBull race cars, the Ferris Bueller Ferrari and the SpeedRacer car, and they just love cool projects. Josh helped me with the wing re-construction/sturdy'ifying it for last year and it came thru with flying colors.

I've got a bunch of kevlar left over from when I coated the bottom of the new race car this winter, so I think I'll just be out the money for resin and bagging supplies. I was thinking that for rallycross something just 4-5 layers of kevlar with aluminum bracing built in should be sturdy enough to withstand rallycross. If I stuff/flip/whatever the car, a skid plate isn't going to make much difference.

Dave

 

lucky you, damn.... so then is the kevlar the choice for sure.


I actually did hold in my hand Didier Auriol Celica WRC spare kevlar skid plate in my hands. But that was actually heavier then mine
http://www.wrc.com/drivers-and-teams...uriol/?whoid=5


i felt like the kid who gets his ice cream finally LOL

 

That looks like alot more than 5 layers, what do you think, probably 1/3" thick?

Thanks for posting the pic - it gives me some good ideas.

Dave

 

that is why i posted

I dont know how many layers, but you see shield- heat shield etc. on it, you can see the design and the idea behind it.

It was heavier then my Aluminum "heavy" skid plate.

 

Nice shot. It's always intrigueing to hold a true WRC part.

I do know the WRC cars use kevlar under floor and sump protection for tarmac but as you can see they run (usually) titanium strips as the main slam-guard against the pavement. Which is what gives us those spectacular sparks when they ditch hook it and run the belly against the pavement!

 

Kern Racing is proud to announce we'll be teaming up with Manley Performance for the 2011 season!

With an engine rebuild needed to start off the 2011 season, now is the perfect time to incorporate some of Manley's great products. Once again we'll be doing a high compression 2.3L stroker engine, but this time around we will be using a Turbo Tuff Series Billet Crankshaft and Turbo Tuff I-Beam Rods. This stuff is so pretty its almost a shame to hide it inside an engine!


Thanks for following along.

Dave

 

cool!

 

Just re-read the rules and bulletins for the rallycross series. Looks like they added a rule that allows you to remove the passenger seat & harnesses after media rides are done. So, there's another 35-38 lbs of weight savings! I like the free stuff. LOL

Dave

 

Knocked out a bunch of stuff on the car today:

-removed all 4 windows & door panels
-purchased tinted lexan
-traced windows only to discover my jig-saw has gone missing
-removed dash
-removed heater box & fan
-removed radiator
-test fit IC in higher location (sitting on top of the radiator support)

Will be back at it tomorrow and will try to snap some pics. Also likely to head down to my buddies shop in hopes of test fitting some new control arms to the other rally project. Busy busy!

Dave

 

very cool car, it's nice to see evo's still getting prepped for rally. seems that subaru's are crowding that scene all the time. good luck this year

 

Anybody know of any coolant flow diagrams for the 4g63 out there? 30 minutes of searching and I'm coming up blank.

Trying to figure out how I want to re-do piping for this rear mounted radiator and knowing which directions the water is flowing and when would be helpful. Thinking about shortening the pipe that comes around from the back of the block so it goes directly to the radiator (instead of wrapping around towards the front and meeting up with the water housing on the side of the block, then doing a 180 and heading back to the firewall).

Edit: Since I'm sure someone will ask - I'm not as concerned about not having a t-stat because with the radiator in the back they won't get as much normal airflow when cruising down the road. I'll have thermostat controlled fans, so when the car is cold the coolant will be flowing, but there won't be much air going over the radiator core. Once it heats up, the fans will kick in to try and keep everything cool. Also, with the extra length of the system, I'm guessing that there'll be enough of a restriction that coolant won't be able to flow too quickly...though I've heard convincing arguments that other than cavitation issues, coolant moving quickly isn't a bad thing.

Dave

 

One of the reasons subarus are so popular is that Subaru of America offers contingency money for racing them. So, you finish well in a newer subaru and you go home with a check. Other nice thing about the subies is the parts interchangeablilty, so you can start with a 1993 chassis and drop an STi motor in it when you're ready for some extra power.

Of course if you want extra power...the Evo's the way to go.

Dave

 

You can get some contingency money up in Canada