what spring rate for track?
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From: Central PA
what spring rate for track?
i'm setting up my car for NASA TTA this year. i haven't driven an evo for about 3 years, so i'm not sure what spring rates are optimal for track. the car i purchased has Ohlins S/T and i want to send them out for rebuilt but i need to decide what spring rates i want to run first to get them revalve for the springs. current springs on them are 450 all the way around.
basic setup:
- 3200 lbs vehicle weight
- hoosier R6 255
- oem sway bars
- Ohlins S/T
frequent track visited: NJMP, Pocono, Summit Point, Watkin Glen
the car will be street driven to and from track and that's about it.
i'm thinking the minimum would be 10k/12k (front/rear) and the max i would go would be 12k/14k
i know competitive racers probably doesn't want to give out their specs but any suggestions would be appreciated? thanks,
basic setup:
- 3200 lbs vehicle weight
- hoosier R6 255
- oem sway bars
- Ohlins S/T
frequent track visited: NJMP, Pocono, Summit Point, Watkin Glen
the car will be street driven to and from track and that's about it.
i'm thinking the minimum would be 10k/12k (front/rear) and the max i would go would be 12k/14k
i know competitive racers probably doesn't want to give out their specs but any suggestions would be appreciated? thanks,
Last edited by honda-guy; Feb 22, 2011 at 06:40 AM.
It all depends. If you're on the stock sways, you might wanna go a little higher as they won't be helping out as much. But if you're on stock aero and wanna street drive it, don't get crazy.
Something between 8/9 and 14/16 is what I'd recommend for anyone. You've got Ohlins, so you should have some good valving - not all valving or build quality is created equally obviously. Not sure if you can soften them up for the street much? That's what I did when I did the DD / weekend track car thing with mine.
Figure out where your abilities slot you, what types of tracks you run, how much you want to compromise ride quality vs track performance, etc.
G/L!
Something between 8/9 and 14/16 is what I'd recommend for anyone. You've got Ohlins, so you should have some good valving - not all valving or build quality is created equally obviously. Not sure if you can soften them up for the street much? That's what I did when I did the DD / weekend track car thing with mine.
Figure out where your abilities slot you, what types of tracks you run, how much you want to compromise ride quality vs track performance, etc.
G/L!
Last edited by boomn29; Feb 22, 2011 at 08:36 AM.
Pretty sound advice above, there's also a whole thread about this here: Choosing coilover spring rates
Charlie North (Function First Motorsports) has built and set the suspension on my NASA Super Touring Evo 8. It corners flat with out lifting the inside rear tire. Moton Club Sports are used with Charlies custom made aluminum suspension bushings and mounts. Yes, suspension travel is key. Instead of lowering the car onto the suspension Charlie built custom side skirts to lower the body and retained stock suspension height. Spring rates, weights, and specs are top secret. The car is very light up front with Charlies custom aluminum motor mounts and removal and relocation of the wiring harness.

A lot also has to how you enter a corner under braking. I can horse the steering and make the car understeer or be smooth in setting the car into the corner and rotate it by lifting off throttle.

A lot also has to how you enter a corner under braking. I can horse the steering and make the car understeer or be smooth in setting the car into the corner and rotate it by lifting off throttle.
I have 10k/12k ohlin DFV's and I honestly don't think it's much worse than when I had bilstein's and swift spec-Rs (which also weren't bad). the ride's a bit more harsh now that I'm on 18's, but it wasn't bad at all when I had 17's.
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