Auto X wheels
#1
Auto X wheels
I'm looking into getting a set of wheels for auto x next year for a set of A6s. I'm looking at 275s. RPF1s are looking pretty good for bang for the buck. From what I can see the 17x9.5 is 2 lbs lighter than the 18x9.5.
Is the two lbs worth having the bigger tire?
The tires are the same weight. So it just comes down to the wheel.
What are the advantages of running 18s vs 17s? I know the tires and wheels a slightly cheaper for 17s.
Is the two lbs worth having the bigger tire?
The tires are the same weight. So it just comes down to the wheel.
What are the advantages of running 18s vs 17s? I know the tires and wheels a slightly cheaper for 17s.
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I'm looking into getting a set of wheels for auto x next year for a set of A6s. I'm looking at 275s. RPF1s are looking pretty good for bang for the buck. From what I can see the 17x9.5 is 2 lbs lighter than the 18x9.5.
Is the two lbs worth having the bigger tire?
The tires are the same weight. So it just comes down to the wheel.
What are the advantages of running 18s vs 17s? I know the tires and wheels a slightly cheaper for 17s.
Is the two lbs worth having the bigger tire?
The tires are the same weight. So it just comes down to the wheel.
What are the advantages of running 18s vs 17s? I know the tires and wheels a slightly cheaper for 17s.
#3
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285.30.18 seems to be the only accepted size that all nationally competitive Evos run, as far as I know. All of the local guys in my region also run this setup. I also just pruchased this setup. For quite some time, 18x9.5 are generally the minimum. Some guys I've researched have put in more work to fit 18x10. However, as of late, I'm reading alot of people running a stagger width, with 18x10 front and 18x9.5 rear, and maintaing the 285.30 tires. Good Luck!
Last edited by chu; Nov 14, 2011 at 02:08 PM.
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after running a 17x9 buddy club rims for years I am switching to an 18" rim.
why? the weight savings do not match the difference in performance from the gearing advantage you get running a 285/30/18 vs a 275/40/17.
According to tirerack, a kumo v710 in a 275 is about 25.4" diameter while the 285 is 24.8"
The fitment for 17" tires is pretty easy, at most you need to mildly roll the rear fenders. Just make sure that your offset is +35mm and just about any tire available should fit
The 18"'s are a PIA. I need to run a staggered offset. I am trying a 18x10.5 in front, with a 18x10 + spacer in back. I know people who run these rims with the same offsets, so it should work, but I need to install longer wheel studs, and roll the rear fenders quite aggressively for it to work, and then there is the alignment..
but as others have said, all the nationally competitive Evo are running similar setups these days. I have been autox'ing my evo since I bought it new in '04 and 18"s are the way to go.
why? the weight savings do not match the difference in performance from the gearing advantage you get running a 285/30/18 vs a 275/40/17.
According to tirerack, a kumo v710 in a 275 is about 25.4" diameter while the 285 is 24.8"
The fitment for 17" tires is pretty easy, at most you need to mildly roll the rear fenders. Just make sure that your offset is +35mm and just about any tire available should fit
The 18"'s are a PIA. I need to run a staggered offset. I am trying a 18x10.5 in front, with a 18x10 + spacer in back. I know people who run these rims with the same offsets, so it should work, but I need to install longer wheel studs, and roll the rear fenders quite aggressively for it to work, and then there is the alignment..
but as others have said, all the nationally competitive Evo are running similar setups these days. I have been autox'ing my evo since I bought it new in '04 and 18"s are the way to go.
#5
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My 18" setup is actually easier to fit than the 275/40/17 setup I used to have, mainly because the 285/30/18s are significantly shorter.
I'd start with a minimum of 18x9.5 and it's probably easier to just run the same offset all around (with spacers up front) so you can rotate tires easier. Right now I'm running staggered, with 18x11s up front and 18x10s in the rear.
I'd start with a minimum of 18x9.5 and it's probably easier to just run the same offset all around (with spacers up front) so you can rotate tires easier. Right now I'm running staggered, with 18x11s up front and 18x10s in the rear.
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Question... So when you are referring to running 9.5" wheels is this with the car being lowered?
If so what offset do you need to run to clear on the front and back wheels for an 18x9.5?
When running a 10" to 10.5" wheel, are they actually tucked in the wheels wells or sticking out?
Thanks,
JJ
If so what offset do you need to run to clear on the front and back wheels for an 18x9.5?
When running a 10" to 10.5" wheel, are they actually tucked in the wheels wells or sticking out?
Thanks,
JJ
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Question... So when you are referring to running 9.5" wheels is this with the car being lowered?
If so what offset do you need to run to clear on the front and back wheels for an 18x9.5?
When running a 10" to 10.5" wheel, are they actually tucked in the wheels wells or sticking out?
Thanks,
JJ
If so what offset do you need to run to clear on the front and back wheels for an 18x9.5?
When running a 10" to 10.5" wheel, are they actually tucked in the wheels wells or sticking out?
Thanks,
JJ
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psushoe,
Thanks for the information, I have been reading through some of the competition threads to get a good idea of what everyone is running.
What wheels are you running? By the looks of the picture they kind of resemble the Enkei wheels. Also, are you running +38 wheel for the front then using the a 20 mm spacer?
Also, can you run a carbon fiber hood in SM? When I am reading the rules it sounds like it is legal, but wanted to make sure that is correct.
So you replaced your Brembo's with Stoptech calipers and rotors? Any performance added to the switch?
Thanks for answering my questions, I appreciate it. I have done searches, but never seem to get the direct answer that I am looking for.
Cheers,
JJ
Thanks for the information, I have been reading through some of the competition threads to get a good idea of what everyone is running.
What wheels are you running? By the looks of the picture they kind of resemble the Enkei wheels. Also, are you running +38 wheel for the front then using the a 20 mm spacer?
Also, can you run a carbon fiber hood in SM? When I am reading the rules it sounds like it is legal, but wanted to make sure that is correct.
So you replaced your Brembo's with Stoptech calipers and rotors? Any performance added to the switch?
Thanks for answering my questions, I appreciate it. I have done searches, but never seem to get the direct answer that I am looking for.
Cheers,
JJ
#10
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psushoe,
Thanks for the information, I have been reading through some of the competition threads to get a good idea of what everyone is running.
What wheels are you running? By the looks of the picture they kind of resemble the Enkei wheels. Also, are you running +38 wheel for the front then using the a 20 mm spacer?
Also, can you run a carbon fiber hood in SM? When I am reading the rules it sounds like it is legal, but wanted to make sure that is correct.
So you replaced your Brembo's with Stoptech calipers and rotors? Any performance added to the switch?
Thanks for answering my questions, I appreciate it. I have done searches, but never seem to get the direct answer that I am looking for.
Cheers,
JJ
Thanks for the information, I have been reading through some of the competition threads to get a good idea of what everyone is running.
What wheels are you running? By the looks of the picture they kind of resemble the Enkei wheels. Also, are you running +38 wheel for the front then using the a 20 mm spacer?
Also, can you run a carbon fiber hood in SM? When I am reading the rules it sounds like it is legal, but wanted to make sure that is correct.
So you replaced your Brembo's with Stoptech calipers and rotors? Any performance added to the switch?
Thanks for answering my questions, I appreciate it. I have done searches, but never seem to get the direct answer that I am looking for.
Cheers,
JJ
You can run a cf hood in SM, but to me it's not worth the $. If there's a lighter one on the market, it's not much lighter. Maybe if you gut one to the shell only it would be some weight savings, but money is better spent elsewhere, imo.
The brakes a total upgrade over stock. Bigger diameter, lighter. They aren't really needed for autox duty, but my car was a former track warrior.
#11
Question... So when you are referring to running 9.5" wheels is this with the car being lowered?
If so what offset do you need to run to clear on the front and back wheels for an 18x9.5?
When running a 10" to 10.5" wheel, are they actually tucked in the wheels wells or sticking out?
Thanks,
JJ
If so what offset do you need to run to clear on the front and back wheels for an 18x9.5?
When running a 10" to 10.5" wheel, are they actually tucked in the wheels wells or sticking out?
Thanks,
JJ
Honestly, I don't think you are giving up anything running the 9.5's.
Here's a pic of a normal roll in the rear
http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/2011...6/#prev-button
And then a pic of my tortured rear, lol
http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/2011...8/#prev-button
Last edited by ratt_finkel; Jan 5, 2012 at 10:02 PM.
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I think most people do at least a minor fender roll to even run the 9.5's. I had to do serious work to get the 10.5's to fit in the back. But I'm also running a much higher offset +15 all the way around. They fit great in the front. And could actually come in about 1/2 an inch.
Honestly, I don't think you are giving up anything running the 9.5's.
Here's a pic of a normal roll in the rear
http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/2011...6/#prev-button
And then a pic of my tortured rear, lol
http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/2011...8/#prev-button
Honestly, I don't think you are giving up anything running the 9.5's.
Here's a pic of a normal roll in the rear
http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/2011...6/#prev-button
And then a pic of my tortured rear, lol
http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/2011...8/#prev-button
I have 18x9.75 wheels w/+20 on it now and I am still getting some rub on the 245/40/18's. After looking at the tire heights between the two the 285 A6 is almost 3/4" shorter than the 245.
Thanks,
JJ
Last edited by Lethal_427; Jan 6, 2012 at 06:19 AM.
#13
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I'm not sure of drop vs. stock, but my car currently sits with about a two finger gap up front and less than 1 finger gap in rear between the tire and top of wheel well. Due to the suspension geometry on the evo, you need to keep the front higher than the rear to reduce overload of the outside front tire and lifting of the inside rear.
It may look odd to some, but if anyone ever asks why the front of your car is higher than the back, you can always respond "because racecar"
It may look odd to some, but if anyone ever asks why the front of your car is higher than the back, you can always respond "because racecar"
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I'm not sure of drop vs. stock, but my car currently sits with about a two finger gap up front and less than 1 finger gap in rear between the tire and top of wheel well. Due to the suspension geometry on the evo, you need to keep the front higher than the rear to reduce overload of the outside front tire and lifting of the inside rear.
It may look odd to some, but if anyone ever asks why the front of your car is higher than the back, you can always respond "because racecar"
It may look odd to some, but if anyone ever asks why the front of your car is higher than the back, you can always respond "because racecar"
What kind of shocks do you run? I currently am running the Ohlin coilovers, so changing ride height should not be a problem.
Thanks,
JJ
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