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Evolution Dynamics Pikes Peak Build

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Old Jul 4, 2012, 01:47 PM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by jerdeitzel
I have run a single layer alumilte splitter for 2 seasons now.( that looks just like this^) Ran it at Mt Washington hillclimb and have also used it at some of the fastest tracks in the US. It is plenty strong enough for a spliiter and you don't even need wires in the front to support it! I crashed with it on an was just stunned at how durable it was. It saved my car!

As far as wear and tear. The front edge will grind down a bit if you hit a lot of pavement but nothing that I'd unexpected.

My whole splitter/ air dam/ connection frame weights less the an APR splitter by itself. By a lot!

Might i suggest some air duct to help cool the transfer case and trans
I saw this exact splitter for sale a few years back. I'm using the pictures from the for sale thread to make mine lol.

As far as weight, my splitter under tray is about the same size as Evolution Dynamics and the piece of cut out alumalite weighted just under 8 lbs.
Old Jul 4, 2012, 01:55 PM
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^ Interesting stuff! Makes me wonder if I'm a dumbass for building stuff out of composites. :-/

Biggest difference I see is that the ones pictured don't stick out quite as far as some of the other ones which would certainly cut down on the need for super strength. However, I'm wondering if that's more based on the rules you guys have to work with.

Dave
Old Jul 4, 2012, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by EVOizmm
Go to a sign shop and ask for the alumilite edging. you'll save your ankles. ask me how i know.
I was going to use some edge trim that I used for the insides of my doors, but if the is something specific to alumalite I'll check it out! Thanks.

Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
The problem I saw with alumalite is that its not bi directional. I'm worried that it'd be weak in one direction or another. 10 mm would be the best but it still has a weak direction? I made a laminate of two pieces for my splitter. It just doesnt come wide enough though.
It's pretty strong and the splitter is supported in the correct direction. I don't think the directional core will be an issue.

Originally Posted by mouseIX
I was worried about that too, but I pulled the trigger and bought some. Stuff is super strong and plenty of people have used it for splitter material.

Good luck with the peak, I was the one who commented on your FB page about the Alumalite
Thanks man!

Originally Posted by DaveK
How does the alumilite stand up to getting zapped against the ground? My old splitter had some pretty good battle scars from hitting the pavement in the hair pin section up on the hill.

I had thought about using the alumilite for the flat bottom on my car as well, but ended up going another route b/c it seemed like the alumilite would need lots of attachment points to keep it from flexing. Looks like you've addressed that well with the splitter attachment points and I'm assuming you'll probably run some sort of support wires out to the front edge?

Being weight consious, have you guys given thought to the weight penalty of the flat panels and increased aero efficiency vs. just leaving it off? Any idea what the alumilite will end up weighing for the splitter/flat bottom/rear section? With the extra time now, I'll try to get weights posted up of my stuff once its done for comparison.

Dave

Interestingly, as jerdeitzel pointed out, this whole thing is lighter then the apr splitter I took off. It's also stiffer then the apr splitter.

For the rest of the undertray, on the formula sae cars I built, the undertray by itself made more downforce then the front and rear wing combined. As long as I can keep it low enough without dragging I'm confident it will be worth the weight addition.

I have yet to weigh the car though, but I'll weigh it and weigh the splitter and undertray once it's complete. The car has had a bunch of safety stuff added to it so I think it might be a little heavier then it was for NASA.

Originally Posted by jerdeitzel
I have run a single layer alumilte splitter for 2 seasons now.( that looks just like this^) Ran it at Mt Washington hillclimb and have also used it at some of the fastest tracks in the US. It is plenty strong enough for a spliiter and you don't even need wires in the front to support it! I crashed with it on an was just stunned at how durable it was. It saved my car!

As far as wear and tear. The front edge will grind down a bit if you hit a lot of pavement but nothing that I'd unexpected.

My whole splitter/ air dam/ connection frame weights less the an APR splitter by itself. By a lot!

Might i suggest some air duct to help cool the transfer case and trans
We will be doing some duct work, already have the brake ducts made, and will being doing some for the wheel wells. I have to have some of the underside exposed for the exhaust cause. I know it will melt the plastic core if I enclose it.
Old Jul 4, 2012, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinD
We will be doing some duct work, already have the brake ducts made, and will being doing some for the wheel wells. I have to have some of the underside exposed for the exhaust cause. I know it will melt the plastic core if I enclose it.
FWIW I purchased some Reflect-a-gold off Amazon.com for almost 50% off last week, direct from DEI. I'm going to see how it holds up instead of wrapping my exhaust.
Old Jul 4, 2012, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mouseIX
FWIW I purchased some Reflect-a-gold off Amazon.com for almost 50% off last week, direct from DEI. I'm going to see how it holds up instead of wrapping my exhaust.
I have almost an entire roll of it on the car already. My exhaust comes close to the fuel cell in the back so the side of the cell is covered in it. Also have the oil pan covered in it, radiator and valve cover also have some on it. I also got the dei hose insulation and have all the water and oil lines to the turbo covered. Turbo blanket and ceramic coating on the turbo. Didn't stop the down pipe from melting a hole in the lower Ic pipe coupler both times out though even with the reflect a gold stuff! We solved that by making it one piece.
Old Jul 4, 2012, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveK
^ Interesting stuff! Makes me wonder if I'm a dumbass for building stuff out of composites. :-/

Biggest difference I see is that the ones pictured don't stick out quite as far as some of the other ones which would certainly cut down on the need for super strength. However, I'm wondering if that's more based on the rules you guys have to work with.

Dave
Mine was built back in the redline time attack days and it couldn't be more then 4" from the air dam. I can't really give any advice on how far a splitter "should" stick out. That seems to be a personal thing. Let's just say that I can't even imagine how much my splitter would rub the ground if it stuck out any further.

Leading edge tape works well and is amazing at giving it some protection against the ground. Yes, from tape! Lol

Last edited by jerdeitzel; Jul 4, 2012 at 02:37 PM.
Old Jul 4, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Mine is 8 inches and doesnt hit anything. held up really good so far. The further the splitter sticks out, the more effective it becomes. The idea is to get as much air forced over top of the car creating a high pressure above. Then getting air to move nice and quick under the car for a low pressure.



Full build: http://blog.365racing.net/2012/04/02...plitter-part2/

Last edited by EVOizmm; Jul 4, 2012 at 08:16 PM.
Old Jul 4, 2012, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by EVOizmm
Mine is 8 inches and doesnt hit anything. held up really good so far. The further the splitter sticks out, the more effective it becomes. The idea is to get as much air forced over top of the car creating a high pressure above. Then getting air to move nice and quick under the car for a low pressure.

. . . .
Something like that

So how far does your Aero guy say is too far before stall starts taking away from your effectiveness??

How does the air moving lets say 5M under the car move more quickly than the same air that has to move lets say 8M up and over the car and end up at the same point behind the car?

The numbers above are just units to relate the point - not actual measured results.
Old Jul 5, 2012, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
Something like that

So how far does your Aero guy say is too far before stall starts taking away from your effectiveness??

How does the air moving lets say 5M under the car move more quickly than the same air that has to move lets say 8M up and over the car and end up at the same point behind the car?

The numbers above are just units to relate the point - not actual measured results.
by making a full flat underbelly, you will decrease any turbulence. this will keep the air moving nice and fast under the car thus making a low pressure. the air above the car needs to travel a further distance.

not sure how far would become to far, but probably wouldnt want a 2 foot long splitter. not to mention the very long support rods needed.
Old Jul 5, 2012, 07:12 AM
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I have never seen any solid data of length vs height. My splitter sits 3" off the ground, which is lower then yours Andy. I would imagine Voltex did some testing and their splitter sure isn't sticking out all that far. Again, it seems to be a personal preference. Us club racers all have theory's we roll with. Lol
Old Jul 5, 2012, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by jerdeitzel
I would imagine Voltex did some testing and their splitter sure isn't sticking out all that far.
Remember that the aero has to balance out front to rear. Their rear wing doesn't make as much downforce as some others on the market. Also keep in mind that the Japanese time attack cars are all about being minimalistic...fly weight, not a ton of power...so huge aggressive drag inducing aero isn't an option.

Dave
Old Jul 5, 2012, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by EVOizmm
by making a full flat underbelly, you will decrease any turbulence. this will keep the air moving nice and fast under the car thus making a low pressure. the air above the car needs to travel a further distance.
. . .
So if the air above the car has to move a longer distance in the same amount of time as the air under the car . . . which one is moving faster??
Old Jul 5, 2012, 06:48 PM
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Ok I'm really curious

Faster air has lower pressure. But how does limiting airflow come into context? The pressure differential is what creates lift or downforce but what happens when you stall the bottom side?

Last edited by 211Ratsbud; Jul 5, 2012 at 11:02 PM.
Old Jul 6, 2012, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
So if the air above the car has to move a longer distance in the same amount of time as the air under the car . . . which one is moving faster??
the air above the car has to move faster.

Old Jul 6, 2012, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
Ok I'm really curious

Faster air has lower pressure. But how does limiting airflow come into context? The pressure differential is what creates lift or downforce but what happens when you stall the bottom side?
you crash.


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