Hey guy,

So here is what I am looking to do. I want to make a guide of everything that can be removed from the engine bay on a race car and still have it race-able.

What I'm not looking for, is a debate on what SHOULD be done an what shouldn't. For example, I know some autocrossers remove their oil cooler. For them it is no issue, for people running track it might.
I'm not looking for a discussion. Just what people have removed, a how-to if they have one, or rough about of labor to do so. That way people can make their own choices on what to do.


REMOVED
- all of the ABS plumbing/distribution block. (some people remove ABS, some people ADD ABS, go figure!)
- firewall padding in the engine bay if you have a non-RS
- power steering pump/lines,etc. (no way this would be driveable for AX, may be ok for road course, def. OK for drags)
-Headlamps (drilled and bolts c/f covers to the front bumper as replacement)
-Crash bar (no replacement needed, 4 bolts after pulling bumper)
-Horns (couple bolts after bumper is removed)
-A/C system Complete (condenser/dryer requires the radiator moved, a/c compressor drops out the bottom with 4 bolts and disconnecting lines, lines wiggle out and unbolt from one solid location, Evap core requires complete dash removal to access)
-EGR and Solenoids (EGR block-off from MAP was $16, remove intake and strut brace. Solenoids are on the front side of the engine under the intake, vacuum lines bolted to back of manifold removed)
-Exhaust manifold heat shield (zip-tied o2 sensor wire to P/S hard line to keep it from sitting on the manifold and melting)
-Heater core (requires dash removal and re-routing heater hoses back to block)
-Hood latch and hinges (drilled and mounted 4 pins in the core support and cowl)
-Cross braces and hardware
-Remove oil cooler
-Balance shaft and belts delete

REPLACED
- lighter trans-mount crossmember (AMS or Buschur)
- small/thin radiator
- tube/fin rather than bar/plate intercooler
- lightweight tubular exhaust manifold (there are several that save ~5 pounds vs the cast iron unit.
- 02 housing/downpipe
- lighter crank, clutch
- various nuts/bolts replaced w/ aluminum and titanium
-Full ACD delete with bracket (swapped to a non-ACD transfer case and remove all lines and pump/bracket)
-Small Odyssey 680 with stock battery tray cut to half size
-Raditor fan (Hardwired condenser fan to a switch for needed cooling since the condenser fan only weights 3.5lbs and the radiator fan weighs 8lbs)
-Super light weight flywheel
-7.25" Clutch
-Aluminum engine mounts
-AMS cross-member
-Hallow FSB
-6" coilover springs
-Coilover suspension
-2-piece rotors
-Aftermarket short intake (removal of large air box)
-Battery relocated to rear



I'll update the first post as people post things.

Thanks!
-Mike

 

can i ask you something? why did you removed the ACD ?
Anyway, i would remove the complete brake system and replace it with a pedal box. I mean no brake booster etc.

 

Is there a how-to? Rough guide or idea of labor involved? I assume with ABS you would need the engine out to remove everything?

I'll PM on you on the ACD question. Trying to keep the thread clean.

 

REMOVED
- all of the ABS plumbing/distribution block. (some people remove ABS, some people ADD ABS, go figure!)
- firewall padding in the engine bay if you have a non-RS
- power steering pump/lines,etc. (no way this would be driveable for AX, may be ok for road course, def. OK for drags)

REPLACED
- lighter trans-mount crossmember (AMS or Buschur)
- small/thin radiator
- tube/fin rather than bar/plate intercooler
- lightweight tubular exhaust manifold (there are several that save ~5 pounds vs the cast iron unit.
- 02 housing/downpipe
- lighter crank, clutch
- various nuts/bolts replaced w/ aluminum and titanium

These are things that "could" be done. Most of them I have done.

 

Do actually need an intercooler in 1the minutes runs at low gears?

 

you know you didnt have to hard wire a switch in..... if u just leave the condensor fan plugged into its normal plug and remove the normal rad fan it still kicks the fan on when it reaches the normal temp for the fan to kick on

 

Does a turbo generate heat?

 

If one is running E85 or E98 I would say NO. The cooling properties and inherent octane rating of that fuel should be sufficient. I'm not trying it, though.

 

If you're running your turbo in the sweet spot of the compressor map... You'd need to have your tune setup to pull gobs of timing when the IAT's skyrocket. Or add a 5th injector in your IC piping... This idea is only feasible with very low compression engines... the higher the static compression the more this turns into outright suicide/ extreme ignition retard...which leads to no power lol.

 

Lol....

That is really a wise guy question
or i bet mine does more then yours, and i do run longer races and still we all fine eith a stock fmic....

So i do not think for less then a 2minutes runs really would have a big benefits vs the weight loss with all the fmic parts removed. + the engine will get more free flow air+ more room + simplier engine bay etc. Everithing which is important in racing

Etc...

Rob

 

I bet mine runs higher IAT's because I run turbos off the compressor map. 42psi on a FP Red, 32psi on the stock 9 turbo, and 36psi on the HKS7460. When I get my 7670 running... it'll be at 42psi and follow the TSL to redline.

You compressor map shows what % of the air is compressed versus the amount that is heated to generate the pressure. The turbo's will in a best case scenario be 75% efficient. If you're running your stock turbo @ 20psi... you're probably closer to 60%. (that means you're making a lot of heat... ~200def F compressor outlet temps.)

I don't suppose you understand the relationship between your static compression ratio and adiabatic heating?

what the solution is... you have to run soo little boost that you're not longer making nearly 400whp with a stock 9 turbo, but far closer to 300 on ethanol.

If you cannot control your IAT's pre-combustion chamber, you're going to have a very low knock threshold.

Your intercooler is NOT something that you want to skimp on.

 

OP, I'm sure you have seen the weight reduction thread, I know its almost 60 pages but there is a lot of good info in it...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/in...have-done.html

 

he runs auto X. Which he never leaves 3rd gear i suppose. Also doenst rub over 2 minutes and where i was so far they do not even step over a minute mark...
You acting like there was not turbo before they invented the IC. Sure makes less hp ( but not a 100WHP less, that is just simply not true, not even close) but really it does matter in the first 1-2 maybe low third, in the first minute and most of the time only minute.. ??

I do not have to understand those fancy things. i do however understand the set ups what racers do . KISS rule and loose everything you dont necessary need. Now he lost more stuff already what i would do , just because the race he does.
I cant see a need for hes set up and race the IC at all. But everybody makes they own set up , that makes us finishes at difference places besides driving.

Also, about our debate
Just add for a fun to this debate , i run ALS. I make 14 psi at idle when its on.
You have a nice set up, but still will not over heat my set up. ALS rocks in that compartment, hands down.

End of the day he runs what he wants, I suggested the no IC set up , since for that time and race i cant see the purpose of it.

Rob

 

You can ignorantly and arrogantly suggest not running an IC, but before you go spouting off on the internet about it, you should at least understand the fundamentals of an ICE.

Better yet... go do it on you own car and prove your point. HA!

 

you are right