Pulling the trigger - Getting into NASA for 2013 - Help me spend $6k!
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Falls Church, VA
very cool thread, subscribed.
i've got a question about tracking your daily... are there any nuts that show up with some kind of minimal air tool kit in their trunk to EASILY swap out their brakes, etc, at the track?
Please don't hate on the lazy guy, knowing myself, I'll likely only do it if it's relatively quick and easy.
i've got a question about tracking your daily... are there any nuts that show up with some kind of minimal air tool kit in their trunk to EASILY swap out their brakes, etc, at the track?
Please don't hate on the lazy guy, knowing myself, I'll likely only do it if it's relatively quick and easy.
i've got a question about tracking your daily... are there any nuts that show up with some kind of minimal air tool kit in their trunk to EASILY swap out their brakes, etc, at the track?
Please don't hate on the lazy guy, knowing myself, I'll likely only do it if it's relatively quick and easy.
2. im the only idiot WITHOUT an electric impact lol
I bring an cordless impact screw driver with 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch socket adapter for wheel removal and odd and ends. If you plan on tracking often, its a good idea to get a separate tool box for track use.
For DAS recommendations, i say start with something inexpensive. If you really get into this someday and need something more you can sell it or keep it, either way you wont be out much money. There are all sorts of products out there so look around. AIM has 2 new inexpensive products, AIM Solo and Solo DL. A bunch of Socal guys got in on a group buy about a year ago, and so far ive heard its a great package for the price.
I have SD conversion and love it. the car is smoother than some of the oem MAF setup that i driven in on track. i've been in at least 3 Evos with MAF that has part throttle issues on track (non stock turbo but still have recirc bov). Everyone who has been in my car says my SD is as smooth as stock.
I'd echo some of what's said here, but add a few things:
- It will take you some time to work through the HPDE ranks. This is a good thing - consider it a long-term racing school. Just be prepared for that.
- Do not be in too much of a hurry to "graduate" from HPDE 1 and 2. I've never ridden with a NASA instructor that I didn't learn a lot from, and there really is no substitute for in-car instruction. Take advantage of this as much as you can, you will be a better racer in the end.
- If doing an event at a new track, sign up for HPDE 1 the first time even after you have been cleared further. You will learn a lot about the line and track specifically from a NASA instructor. Good habit to get into, even if you just do it for the first few sessions.
- Get good street tires (RS-3 or Star Specs are fantastic for this) on track rims and stick with those until at least HPDE 3. Once you learn to be fast on street tires, you will be killer on r-comps. Race compounds hide too many mistakes when you are learning and you can groove some seriously bad car control habits slapping on the slicks too early in your education.
- You need race brakes, period. Couple of options - have separate rotors and pads for the track, or you can save some time by checking out Carbotech brake pads. All of their compounds are rotor-compatible with each other, so you can run Carbotech street pads and race pads on the same rotors. Say, Bobcats for the street and XP10's for the track would get you started. It's stupid fast to change the pads on our cars, so no excuse not to do it.
- There is one book I'd recommend if you are just starting out - Ultimate Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley. It's available via Kindle as well. You will learn a TON about vehicle and corner dynamics. Do your homework!
- Don't be in a big hurry to mod the hell out of things, especially power adders. Learn to corner first, and learn consistency. Focus initial money on track consumables like brakes, and reliability mods. Then, you'll see what the car needs as you learn. It's not the same for everyone - there is never one single "magic mods" list for everyone. As it evolves, let YOUR driving style dictate your future mods.
- I'd leave off with the message of seat time - the best racing mod of all is adjusting the nut behind the wheel. On your first track weekend when you get passed by a Miata, you will understand. A great driver is fast as all hell in a slow car, and absolutely unstoppable in a fast car. So never, and I repeat NEVER, let saving for a mod cost you track time - track time is always worth more.
Hope some of that helps - see you at the track!
- It will take you some time to work through the HPDE ranks. This is a good thing - consider it a long-term racing school. Just be prepared for that.
- Do not be in too much of a hurry to "graduate" from HPDE 1 and 2. I've never ridden with a NASA instructor that I didn't learn a lot from, and there really is no substitute for in-car instruction. Take advantage of this as much as you can, you will be a better racer in the end.
- If doing an event at a new track, sign up for HPDE 1 the first time even after you have been cleared further. You will learn a lot about the line and track specifically from a NASA instructor. Good habit to get into, even if you just do it for the first few sessions.
- Get good street tires (RS-3 or Star Specs are fantastic for this) on track rims and stick with those until at least HPDE 3. Once you learn to be fast on street tires, you will be killer on r-comps. Race compounds hide too many mistakes when you are learning and you can groove some seriously bad car control habits slapping on the slicks too early in your education.
- You need race brakes, period. Couple of options - have separate rotors and pads for the track, or you can save some time by checking out Carbotech brake pads. All of their compounds are rotor-compatible with each other, so you can run Carbotech street pads and race pads on the same rotors. Say, Bobcats for the street and XP10's for the track would get you started. It's stupid fast to change the pads on our cars, so no excuse not to do it.
- There is one book I'd recommend if you are just starting out - Ultimate Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley. It's available via Kindle as well. You will learn a TON about vehicle and corner dynamics. Do your homework!
- Don't be in a big hurry to mod the hell out of things, especially power adders. Learn to corner first, and learn consistency. Focus initial money on track consumables like brakes, and reliability mods. Then, you'll see what the car needs as you learn. It's not the same for everyone - there is never one single "magic mods" list for everyone. As it evolves, let YOUR driving style dictate your future mods.
- I'd leave off with the message of seat time - the best racing mod of all is adjusting the nut behind the wheel. On your first track weekend when you get passed by a Miata, you will understand. A great driver is fast as all hell in a slow car, and absolutely unstoppable in a fast car. So never, and I repeat NEVER, let saving for a mod cost you track time - track time is always worth more.
Hope some of that helps - see you at the track!
I would love to compare more common track intel.
I.E. - will 4 point harnesses be ok or will I have to go 5+?
What tow hooks are available to those of us who have no crash beams?
Im getting more and more pumped for this!
I want to spend $1k+ this month. Brake rotors and pads, cordless impact wrench, harness, RCK kit, bushings, and a DAS seems like a good start, no?
Last edited by prowakeskater; Nov 2, 2012 at 04:33 PM.
thats no good. SCCA is sounding more attractive. What is the stipulation exactly? you must have a roll cage to have a harness? if you dont you must have a normal fastener?
I run a crushed oem DV, holds 30psi no problems, and I run SD as well. SD is seriously so much smoother and better than MAF, I don't even like driving MAF cars anymore.
Brakes are #1 priority as stated here, I murdered a set of dtc60's at 350whp, granted I may have been a little less than excellent with braking control, as I was used to driving my Miata that stops on a dime.
Brakes are #1 priority as stated here, I murdered a set of dtc60's at 350whp, granted I may have been a little less than excellent with braking control, as I was used to driving my Miata that stops on a dime.
NASA does not allow 4-pt harnesses period. OEM seatbelt or 5-pt.
If that's what Joe Grande told you, I guess its okay. 2 years ago when I attended my first NASA HPDE event, I was told in tech I couldn't use the harness on track. I've used the stock belts since then, but sometimes I will sneak in the lap portion only, and wear my stock belts over that.
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Milwaukee, WI
A harness bar and harnesses are fine for NASA HPDE and Time Trials. Not W2W though, need a cage for that.
However - no 4-pointers. Nothing without a submarine strap. 5, 6, 7 are all fine. Not a big deal really. If you intend to be serious about this, you will want race seats, and they will be tapped for these harnesses in any case. This should not dissuade you -NASA takes safety seriously, and that is encouraging
And yes, changing out rotors and pads at the track is what you should do. Not that we all do...(shhhhh...)
However - no 4-pointers. Nothing without a submarine strap. 5, 6, 7 are all fine. Not a big deal really. If you intend to be serious about this, you will want race seats, and they will be tapped for these harnesses in any case. This should not dissuade you -NASA takes safety seriously, and that is encouraging
And yes, changing out rotors and pads at the track is what you should do. Not that we all do...(shhhhh...)
Depends on the setup I suppose. During the whole summer I dd'ed on PF01's and my DBA4000's. Cold performance was perfectly acceptable and on-track performance for track days and TA was great as well.
