I have been racing auto x for the past couple years and haven't really done much with the suspension. I know that most of you guys have setup secrets and I don't expect for you guys to spill the beans. I am just looking for some beginner pointers.
Right now my suspension is AST 4100 with 11kf 12kr with a whiteline RSB. I'm not the best drive by any means and I just leave the suspension the same for all the events. If any input on what some changes will do that would be appreciated. This year I will be coming off street tires and running Rcomps which I know will make a difference.

 

I think it's probably more important for you to do test-n-tune days prior to the start fo the season, play with the varying dampening/rebound adjustments, keep track for how it feels, and go from there.

 

^^^ Agreed, optimize what you have first and then figure out where to go from there.

I can suggest one change I would consider though before you optimize what you have, allow the suspension to work the best it can. If they are legal in your class, I'd add the Whiteline RCK and Positive Steering Kit to the front end as they make an appreciable difference on the bumpsteer characteristics of the car. I haven't verified it yet, but based on what I saw on the front end, I would bet their rear bump steering correction kit also works well. The one last bushing that gets excellent reviews on is the rear trailing arm bushing, the stock one is mushy and will allow the tire to wander under power.

The R-comps are going to generate a decent amount more body roll as well so you'll need to compensate in the alignment accordingly. Again though, it's something you'll have to play with to figure out what works on your setup.

 

I guess I'm not sure what changes to make when I do a TnT. That's what info I am looking for.

I already have the AMS trailing arm bushings, but I will look into the RCK.
last season on street tires I ran -3.5 front camber and -2. rear. I think I am about maxed out for the rear on the factory adjustments.

 

You can get a fair bit more camber in the rear with the stock setup, not that you need it. I've gotten close to 3 degrees. Right now I'm in the mid 2's

 

Honestly.... I've tried running full hard and full soft ... never really noticed much of a difference. I have my best luck simply keeping the front hard the rear soft and then playing with tire pressures alone.

 

The AST's are pretty nice coilovers. Vorshlag has a basic guide to initial setup of AST coilovers on this page:

http://www.vorshlag.com/articles.php

I think 03whitegsr is talking about the Perrin PSRS or Whiteline equivilent. I have the PSRS with offest to add caster. I also have the Cirodesign Caster-Camber plates. The PSRS replaces a big sloppy bushing in the front suspension. And these cars like caster. Caster=dynamic camber (More you turn the wheel the more camber you get).

In general replacing the OEM bushings with whitelines and things like the PSRS, tighten up the car, make it respond quicker to inputs, help transient response (really noticable on quick transitions) all at the cost of increased noise and NVH all around.

 

There is some good info in this recent thread.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...k-right-p.html

 

That's what info I was looking for to get me started. I will look into the Perrin unit. I wish I had waited to get my vorshlag plate so I could get the ones that add camber.

 

Most all of the Coilover top plates let you adjust Camber. The Ciro-Designs also let you adjust caster. I think the Vorshlag plates have caster adjustment also?

 

That's what I meant to say. The only ones that were out when I got mine just had camber adjustment. The new ones have added caster but are not adjustable.

 

Welll the caster adjustment on the Ciro units is very limited, just enough to make sure you match left to right basically.

 

The vorshlag plates are easier to install and adjust then the cirro plates. The cirro plates use a bolt and a nut to hold the plates to the tower. Terrible design IMO as you have to take the shock out to make adjustments to the caster. They should have used studs in the plate like everyone else.

 

Hey Kevin,

Thanks for the feedback.

- AFAIK most other adjustable caster plates don't use studs pressed into the main plate. They need to use an additional steel floater part to hold the studs.
- The caster can be adjusted on the Ciro plates in about 2 min per side, once the car is jacked up. No need to remove the coil-over strut. I can post a vid if needed.
- Allows use of our trailer spacer kit, which raises the front of the 2", to clear the Evo's long nose when going up ramps. This eliminates the need to reset your spring perches.
- It may be that coil-overs are easier to install than stock struts with our design.

PM me if I can help with anything.

Rick

 

JIC, works, cusco, vorshlag, ground control all use studs. the ground control plates use the steel plate below the main plate, but that allows fully adjustable caster without having to remove the shock.

every other set of coilovers installs the exact same way as the stock struts (with the exception of external reservoir shocks).