Just looking for input from those in the know..... Any new parts ... From brake pads to wings that we average people should know about? I'd like to make my car more capable by adding grip and reducing weight without gutting or fabricating.

My current config:
Ohlin DFV RT coilovers
Raybestos ST47 pads
Hoosier A6 tires
Wedsport tc105n 17x9.5 +32
Mini battery
I,E, FMIC, E85, INJ, EF2 turbo

Now I'm open to changing the above list of parts but more interested in reducing weight or increasing downforce with over the counter parts.

Recomendations needed on replacement seats, wing and splitter. Heck I'd even consider new rim and tire combo if it makes sense. Just looking for things I may not have considered or may have even heard about. I'm not building for any particular class just want to keep it streetable and capable on track.

 

Well I would say add some aero to the front to increase grip but how much do you daily drive your car ?

 

In the summer.... Daily.

Need input on bolt on parts .... For example what rear wing is better than stock and bolts into the stock location.

What seats weigh less than stock and bolt right in?

What splitter is functional but easy enough to remove after an event?

 

^ are those all the parts u have on the car now?

 

I've only seen the APR or Kognition wings be used on track Evos. I think both, but especially the Kognition, needs to be balance out with a fornt splitter. Heard from a few the understeer is bad if not balanced out.

Seats depends on your need for certifications and budget. I use a Buddy Club seat, and I think it the lightest uncertified seat for the price. There's no bolt-in seat. You must buy rails and sliders as necessary.

There's not splitter on the market other than the APR, and I heard its pretty flimpsy. Most guys I know custom make their own using alumilite.

I would look into replacing bushings, and possibly adding caster plates to you setup.

Good Luck.

 

Get a rear diffuser or at least the flat rear tray from Buschur. Reduces drag and helps reduce lift. Front panel is also a necessity to reduce drag and cool the tranny down properly

There isnt much on effective front splitters that 'bolt on' easily and will withstand any real down force generated. As mentioned many people make them from alumlite. Ground clearance is going to be an issue on DD.

One thing that wont cost much is to fine tune the rake on the car using using your Ohlins. Having it about 1-2 inch lower in the front will move the low pressure point to just under the front under tray panel. It will also make the rear flat under tray more effective kinda like a long tunnel with a venturi effect at the front. This allows the stock rear wing to be more effective as well.

You have not listed anything on the sway bar setup but with your suspension a front bar is well worth it with an appropriate rear bar to fine tune the handling

Hope this helps

 

Have you done the front bushings on the rear trailing arms? If not you are having major rear toe changes under accell and braking. Really doesn't even change NVH either.

I really like the way my car turns in with added Caster. BUT, I used the Perrin PSRS, which eliminates that big bushing on the lower front suspension arm, and replaces it with an aluminum puck and ball joint. And once you start down that road you quickly end up with something you don't want to drive on the road.

Any of the True one piece competition seats are quite a bit lighter than the stock front seats. Sparco Evo series, Racetech, etc. Install with a simple bolt in mount with the aluminum side plates and you can save several pounds. But you loose seat adjustment.

 

I have the whiteline RCK but that's it for now. The car dances a bit under braking but nothing too serious. I also have a perrin rear sway bar that I prefer set to full stiff.

If commercial splitters are less than ideal I guess I'll pass on the wing upgrade. I'll test rake adjustments and look into some bushing replacements. I'd like to hear more about bushing upgrade recommendations actually. Some one post some pics!

 

The Energy Suspension master bushing kit is nice and cost effective. I still have to finish installing everything. If you ge tthe kit, just aovid installing the donut bushing on the front LCA.

 

You're running A6's but you're not competing?

That sounds.. expensive.

 

I have RS3 tires for DD.... nt01 for hpde ... And a set of A6 for high speed autos or time attack events. I don't attend that many events each year so it's not as bad as it probably is for most.

 

Nice tire choices! I can second, the Kognition wing provides heavy downforce even at minimum AoA, so it will need at least a token effort up front. I currently run the APR splitter and canards, but its frame mounted in like 20 places so its about as rigid as it can be for CFRP. I will be replacing it with alumalite like all the cool kids.

What kinds of sways are you running and at what settings? What differential setup do you have? One of the largest changes I found was running the Weir Performance 12-plate rear diff, so I can actually get power-on oversteer. It's a pretty cheap upgrade for a noticeable benefit. I fought understeer all last season, and its gotten progressively better with the new setup.

 

Two things:

Minor: look into the new Rival, or zII tires.

Major: REAR DIFF did not see it mentioned, whether you do a Shep or a TRE locking rear diff... it is a HUGE change, which will make you rethink the rest of the setup once completed. I would consider a 1.5way LSD setup, to help calm the car under high speed braking on track.

 

Haha, beat you too it Bassicfun! Totally agree though, it completely changes the car.

 

When you installed the rear diff mod... What needed adjustment? Alignment? What did you have to rethink?