Autocrossers: how do you keep your front lip attached?
Apr 3, 2013, 07:19 AM
#16
ive thought about making an aluminum undertray that goes back a couple feet. if that attached to the lip then back to some supports the lip would take much less of the hit. i actually have a cardboard cut out in my office i just need to take the time to draw it up in cad and cut it out.
Apr 3, 2013, 08:45 AM
#17
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first thing is to not hit cones, especially in the cold!!
Other than that, running the OEM undertray with ALL the attachment points in place, along with them being tied into the OEM fender liners, is a big help. There are MANY attachments points, but connecting everything together like this makes the bumper & lip much stronger in an impact. Also, its a PITA, but use the OEM type plastic fasteners instead of zip-ties to attach everything. Zip-ties are too strong and will actually rip the plastic on impact instead of the fastener just breaking.
In the off season I would always remove my bumper/lip and use 2-stage plastic epoxy to reattach any of the plastic pieces where the lip and bumper attached to each other that came loose.
Other than that, running the OEM undertray with ALL the attachment points in place, along with them being tied into the OEM fender liners, is a big help. There are MANY attachments points, but connecting everything together like this makes the bumper & lip much stronger in an impact. Also, its a PITA, but use the OEM type plastic fasteners instead of zip-ties to attach everything. Zip-ties are too strong and will actually rip the plastic on impact instead of the fastener just breaking.
In the off season I would always remove my bumper/lip and use 2-stage plastic epoxy to reattach any of the plastic pieces where the lip and bumper attached to each other that came loose.
Apr 3, 2013, 12:24 PM
#18
Thought #1: Set up the car with more oversteer, loose in the rear... then at least you should NOT hit cones with the FRONT of the car. 
Thought #2: agreed with AlwaysinBoost above... I bought a bag of 500 plastic fasteners, just like the OEM ones, but these were in bulk non-oem... dirt cheap, I'll say $10-12 if I remember right. (google is your friend). I ensured that all the undertray bits and pieces are there, perfect as they should be.
Thought #2: agreed with AlwaysinBoost above... I bought a bag of 500 plastic fasteners, just like the OEM ones, but these were in bulk non-oem... dirt cheap, I'll say $10-12 if I remember right. (google is your friend). I ensured that all the undertray bits and pieces are there, perfect as they should be.
Apr 3, 2013, 03:52 PM
#22
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Takes cone marks off with one wipe.
Apr 3, 2013, 06:59 PM
#24
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My lip is quite officially toast.
I fear that if I don't have some sort of armor on there, I'm just gonna end up in the same place in another year or two.
Has anyone had any success here?
I'm considering epoxy, or maybe drilling holes in the lip+bumper and using small nuts+bolts to keep them together... I dunno. I just want to fix this once and for all if it's possible.
Thanks
John
I fear that if I don't have some sort of armor on there, I'm just gonna end up in the same place in another year or two.
Has anyone had any success here?
I'm considering epoxy, or maybe drilling holes in the lip+bumper and using small nuts+bolts to keep them together... I dunno. I just want to fix this once and for all if it's possible.
Thanks
John
I replaced my lip with a bayson R Motorsport front lip and you can follow the rest of the task on my blog.
front lip install
the "fixed" front lip was actually quite strong, almost strong enough to support my weight.
Last edited by chrisw; Oct 1, 2014 at 11:24 AM.
Apr 4, 2013, 05:05 AM
#27
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for removing cone marks there is a product made by Mothers called R3 that works amazingly. I use this all the time to remove tire/rubber from my track car. I've tried a lot of different products, but the mothers stuff is the easiest to use by far.
