psushoe

iTrader: (8)

I'd be careful with toe plates on the rear of the car. If you make a lot of changes, you can end up with a funky thrust angle and cause the car to behave differently when turning left or right. If you are careful about it, a few adjustments might not be bad. In the end, string box it to make sure it's all lined up.

As for rear toe, I've never tried more than 1/16" toe in for the rear. It was stable enough for me on power to not want to go any more. For toe out, I found I could make the car behave more to my liking on turn in, but as soon as it was time to put power down the car was all over the place. As mentioned above, it comes down to driver preference and total spring/bar setup where you will be happy. For me, if I can't be throttle on digging out of a corner I'm not a happy camper, even if the entry was a little faster.

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

corner exit behavior is very much determined by rear toe. while it does have an effect on mid corner balance there are other things that can adjust mid corner balance with out changing corner exit behavior. I personally like having the car setup such that i can floor it out of every corner and not have to lift and as a result we're running a lot of toe in. I wouldn't consider our setup very normal though.

I run an alignment very similar to the OP on my street evo and I like it. Stock shocks/springs with a 24mm rear bar and restacked stock diff.

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

If you keep the adjusters symmetric (camber and toe) it will have minimal thrust angle with out having to string it.

psushoe

iTrader: (8)

I would say mine isn't normal, either. I've found optimal rear toe changes based on tire width and available power to grip levels. If you have enough power to easily overwhelm the tires, more rear toe in is needed to be able to drive through it. If you are underpowered for the grip and the tires never slip, stability is less of an issue with some toe out. One of the many things I've learned playing with 315s vs 285s, and we're still messing with the setup

psushoe

iTrader: (8)

I guess that's true, although I like to spend 4hrs on an alignment

Bassicfun

iTrader: (10)

I went from a 27mm to a 24mm, still have the 27mm around if you want to try that.

SS RX7 r2

iTrader: (1)

We have low cost 2mm spacers if you want to get 17mm clearance.

Rick

Live4Redline

iTrader: (2)

^ PM's sent and thx.

Live4Redline

iTrader: (2)

NASA Mid Atlantic Autocross #3 (21 APRIL 2013)

Was a fast course that other then having a tight box that only a miata could fit through, the special treatment of an additional +3 to +8 timed runs a certain group of people at the event got, and a timing guy on heat two that didn't relay to me the correct time for any of my runs, it could have been better. I'm just glad I could get the job done in my legit six runs and walk away with 1st place in class and fastest run in a car that didn't include the R-Class Karts. =)




The best part was my parents stopping by and checking out what I do on my weekends. I offered my pops a ride on my first run and my mom volunteered instead. Its a pretty funny video that I should have up some time tomorrow.

ratt_finkel

Always fun to bring family out! I took my 88 yr old gpa for a ride in my C6Z06 at a site that had a bunch of elevation changes and undulations... sketchy surface too. I'm shocked he didn't have a cardiac event LOL!

Run looked good man. I always preferred the roof cam for the best perspective. The side cam is nice for checking cone clearances. But you only get one side.

The helmet cam is kinda cool I guess. Shows if you are looking ahead. But it's hard to see much else since you move around so much. Internal cams are really best for hand placment and can still show head moment and line placement.

But anyway, that run looked really good man! I didn't see any major boggles from the side cam. I noticed your line started to get a little off toward the end. But the rest you were right on them. Looks like you smoothed your driving up quite a bit. Lots of people forget that the evo is very forgiving to aggressive driving and minor mistakes. You can get away with a lot in these cars. But ultimately you will go faster by being smooth.

Did you change anything on the car? I'd love to see a link to your results. Also, that shutdown chute looked awfully sketchy to me...

Live4Redline

iTrader: (2)

^ Thanks, I appreciate the feed back.

Ya, I need to upload the vid of my mom still, its rather funny. I'll see if I can get it up tonight.

As for the camera's, I've been watching wheel and tire clearances for the most part but as that's not seeming to be an issue anymore with the suspension adjustments I may look at other options. I may even look into a more solid in car mount. Your right at first it helped to see where I was looking but I don't have any issues looking ahead and never really have so it would be better to look at the whole in cab picture.

As for the run, it felt good and I was happy with it. I ran two seconds faster on a previous run which would have been fine but instead of clipping the one magic cone and making thing of it, I clipped two so that ruined the fun. I did have better end sections, but I was still testing the waters with what I could get away with in that part of the course. As for the run off... it was crap and I seriously did more braking off the clock trying to not hit the stands then on it. What was even beter was the timing guy standing six feet from the finish timing lights, I over shot him a few times and he refused to walk over and give me my time slips. You would think he would learn after awhile but no. By far not the best event they've hosted but the results made it worth it.

I've learned a great deal as a driver, as a mechanic and as a tuner since I started AutoX'ing and its just been a blast.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Cool. I race NASA MW/GL in the Camaro-Mustang Challenge. And I am the HPDE 3/4 Group Leader.

I think you're overwhelming the traction circle of the tires in those boxes. I would try scrubbing a little more speed coming in and slow my hands down more (weight transfer). A sway bar set will help resist sway more as well. But I start with driver inputs most of the time.

Live4Redline

iTrader: (2)

So we had a Mother's Day Race yesterday. I finished 1st place in class, 3rd in raw, and seventh in pax. Could have done a little better but the heat was long and the tires were cooling off a great deal between runs. As a result as the runs went on I lowered the tire pressures a little too much and times got consecutively slower.

I'll post some pics and vid later today hopefully.


Do have a few issues I wanted to bring up though.

#1, I have some sort of binding that results in a loud pop while on the course and some times after my run and on the paddock. I have needle bearings to help with spring rotation on the front coils but I'm not sure what's causing it. It's usually while the wheel is turning with acceleration. It's rather loud and reverberates through the car. I'm gonna review the videos and see if I can find an example of it. It's been going on the last couple of races and I'm tired of ignoring it. Not sure if its a spring pop, an axle pop, or maybe a sway bar issue

#2, is the wheel lift issue again. I got a section of video I'm gonna post up of me trying to break my rear diff. Wheel must be off the ground as I accelerate through the corner because the resulting sound is that of nightmares. Felt as if the inside rear was off the ground and the outside was hoping side ways while spinning. Can't be good for the drive train and slowing down and keeping it tight only added two seconds to the clock. I'll get some videos up later.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Really common problem with most evo's approaching higher spring rates and sticky tires. I mostly fixed it with less rear inside lift (More rear droop, stiffer front springs, softer front bar) and more rebound.

Live4Redline

iTrader: (2)

A day late but here's video of Sundays Mothers Day Race.

I finished 1st Place in class, 3rd place in Raw of the non e-mod's, and 7th pax. I was on my way for FTD but there was a lot of wait time before the runs where i was loosing a lot of heat in the tires and I goofed up and lowered the tire pressures beyond what was favorable and couldn't get the car back on pace afterwards.

2013 VMSC AutoX #3 - 12 May 2013


I had a couple issues like I mentioned in the previous post with the addition of a few others. It was a very technical course that some how managed to keep the pace up for the entirety. Was a lot of fun but I definitely could have done better.


I am going to make a couple changes thanks to some helpful advise and see how it does. The plan is to move up to a 14/14 spring rate, add some rear sway bar and get the cusco front bracket so that i can reduce the factory front sway bar a bit. On top of that, Terry at FA is gonna pro rate my needle bearings for the new closed bearing assembly he recently released which should help the spring pop when it binds up. We also talked about adding some more grouping to the rear struts so that i can get a little more travel if the other adjustments to the car are not enough to get the results I'm looking for.

I have a set of modified "doubled up" helper springs that came off one of the track BMW's at the shop. Would there be any benefit to running a doubled up helper spring in the rear? As far as droop is concerned? I did some measurements and I currently have 1.562" of rear droop.