arent they like $4-5k a set? thats a level above what we seem to be discussing.

 

I see.

KW V3s?

 

I use the JRZ RS (two way independent two tube shock), and like them a lot. They are likely overkill for STU autox, but being able to call JRZ for support any day of the week at any time (includes weekends) is a very nice benefit. I think if you call JRZ and ask them about the RS-1 (monotube, 1-way, dependent adjustable rebound and compression), with camber plates and springs, they will end up being close in price to what Ohlins and AST's are.

Good luck!

-Ryan

 

This is the reason that you buy suspension from a dealer that deals with racing EVO's. If you buy Ohlins from Works, Robispec, Etc you get the proper spring and valving done for you the first time.

 

Why you guys don't specify what you need?
Every car has a different set up. Example different sway bars weight etc. When you order a coil over set up for your car at least writ does down. Or consult with someone what would be a safe bet for you. And that way you doesn't ending up with bad set up or spring which is useless for you.
Just saying.

 

^ because custom valved shocks cost more money than off the shelf coilovers.

 

+1

Guilty.

My track budget has to cover quite a few things including consumables, so I have to go with off the shelf KW V3s with higher rate springs.

At some point I'll contact GTWORX to get a set of Ohlins R&T with valve matched springs.

 

I don't see pricing for them anywhere but AST 5100's with the optional Double Digressive Pistons should offer better ride quality (especially with softer adjustment settings) than with standard pistons. I'm sure if you call AST USA they can give you more info and a quote.

More info on DDP:

AST's extremely digressive "DDP" piston was developed for GRAND-AM racing and gives drivers and race engineers the best of both worlds. Drivers love the low speed damping response and body control, while race engineers love the “blow off” (the knee point digression, shown in the dyno plot below), with a tapering off of the rebound forces at high shaft velocities. An unintended benefit of this piston was exceptional ride quality at high bypass settings (softer rebound knob adjustment).



When the rebound adjustment is set to soft, the damper curve looks similar to an OEM street shock profile. When the rebound adjustment is set to firmer settings, the damper curve looks like a race shock. The most critical portion of the dyno plot area is affected the most - the portion at low shaft speeds. So much in racing happens at 0-3 inches per second shaft velocities, and that's where these pistons really step up the damping forces, when adjusted firmer. The graph of shock dyno plots for typical compression and rebound curves from the 4150 are shown above. The changes are from adjustments to the rebound knob every two clicks (of twelve), and you can see the digressive nature of the plot. Basically, the super-digressive curve for the rebound that these new DDP pistons can achieve makes for a “Jekyll and Hyde” shock - one that offers a soft street ride and firm race car track performance in ONE shock - all with the turn of a knob.

 

The KW's are solid but have you considered something 2nd hand? There are a couple sets of AST5100's currently that are pretty well priced

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...or-plates.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...coilovers.html

Just missed a set of AST4100's that I saw a couple weeks ago as well. Unless your against used I'd try and stake it out a lil longer and see what pops up...

 

hm.. but at least you guys buying them for they purpose, and not for bling in the car, example for a car show or a parking lot... That's way maybe in a long run worth every penny.
After a while you add up all the try and errors and headaches - spending, you might be ending up a less headache when you pay more for them when you get them. So saving some penny or ending up spending a same. But being MUCH happier from the begin with, and focusing other improvements with a car. Or driving , since you dont change you set up , you can get used to it faster and being more competitive faster etc.

So dont be like me. I had many suspension idea and try to go around spend a lot on suspension. What i ended up buying anyway. The problem is i had may bad races - experience, and spending a LOT for nothing. Same time preventing myself to learn my car behavior...
Power is easy to learn, suspension is the hard one. So if you start with a good - customized set up , you are already head of the game. To adding 100 etc hp is easy (thanks god for the evo) and also easy to get used to it.

Just my two cent.

Rob

 

I picked up these KW V3s second hand, actually.

While we're talking about it, does anyone know if the helper springs should be on top or bottom? The installation manual from KW shows the helper springs on the bottom, but a google image search shows them on the top, bottom and both like how I have them in the above picture.

I decided on KW because so many people seem to have great success with them and I haven't heard too much about AST.

 

I prefer the helpers on the bottom cause the body will give support for any sideloading which you may see using stock top hats (non-articulating upper spring mount). Though that does make the helper/assist spring un-sprung weight, its less than 1lb.

 

Sweet looks like they're in great shape Also glad to see you've got what appears to be a proper rate in the rear. What rates do you have there? Im guessing you stuck with the 9k on the front and the swifts are 10 or 11k?

 

9k/11k on street tires for the time being. Looking into r-comps once I get used to the new set-up this season.

KW V3s
Polyurethane bushings all around
Perrin PSRS
F/R sway bars - Tanabe 25.4mm (F)/Progress 25mm (R)
F/R Perrin end links
Cusco Front Sway Bar Adjustment Bracket

Going to have to re-learn the car this year.

 

Good stuff, I'm sorta in the same boat as you. I out on my Ohlins as well as a bunch of bushing at the end of the season last year so I only got two races **cough** autocrosses in

Have you installed the Perrin PSRS yet? I've got it sitting on my work bench and would like to figure out which spacer to use and whether it goes on the top or bottom...I dont really want to notch my frame. I'll PM you if needbeit as to not derail this thread