Bilstein HD / GTWorx -> Ohlins or AST?
It may not be a great measure since it's not for new, but I believe the upgrade is about $1,000 between parts and labor. I'm getting it done with a rebuild on my 5200's which reduces cost a bit since they'll already be working on them .
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If you know what you want, then PSI straight-up said they'd revalve new-from-them Ohlins to customer spec for no additional cost. It wasn't even clear that you had to buy springs from them, but they aren't going to swap the springs. You get everything in the kit (8k & 10k springs).
Revalving used dampers, which they consider anything that's been installed on a car, requires a rebuild too and is around $250-300 a corner. To these ends I'm kinda curious what the difference is between the lauded Gerrard-spec dampers and current OTS valving. Time has passed and presumably Ohlins updates their spec from time to time? Also worth noting is that you could do quite a few revalves and rebuilds for the ATS upgrade cost.
Even if you're going pretty hard race, it still seems like the Ohlins are the choice for the money. Pro-race is always another level as demonstrated by robevos awesomeness. One just needs to figure out where they really operate...
Revalving used dampers, which they consider anything that's been installed on a car, requires a rebuild too and is around $250-300 a corner. To these ends I'm kinda curious what the difference is between the lauded Gerrard-spec dampers and current OTS valving. Time has passed and presumably Ohlins updates their spec from time to time? Also worth noting is that you could do quite a few revalves and rebuilds for the ATS upgrade cost.
Even if you're going pretty hard race, it still seems like the Ohlins are the choice for the money. Pro-race is always another level as demonstrated by robevos awesomeness. One just needs to figure out where they really operate...
It seems like almost everyone gets caught in the same ohlins orbit.... They are recognized as the best bang for the buck for 90% of the people on the forum but those of use spending $3000 probably want something more suited to track duty. Once you start running wide sticky race tires even the 10k fronts are too soft. Without a revalve this leaves you with two options: 12k/10k which isn't optimum but is within the valving range or 12k/12k which puts you outside of their recommended settings.
That is my entire complaint really ..... Ohlins ship with 10k/8k valving but how many people to you hear buying softer springs? None. If they would have shipped with 10k/12k pretty much everyone would have been happy. You would still have the option to run 8k/10k, 10k/10k, 12k/12k or 12k/14k. It would just make more sense to sell them that way.
As for buying them from a race shop such as works... they don't revalve them they simply swapped the springs around. No different than what I can do in 15 minutes at home.
Therefore I wouldn't recommend them for someone that plans to be on track with sticky tires unless you want to revalve the rears right from the get go. Getting them revalved to 12k would allow you to run the above mentioned rates.
That is my entire complaint really ..... Ohlins ship with 10k/8k valving but how many people to you hear buying softer springs? None. If they would have shipped with 10k/12k pretty much everyone would have been happy. You would still have the option to run 8k/10k, 10k/10k, 12k/12k or 12k/14k. It would just make more sense to sell them that way.
As for buying them from a race shop such as works... they don't revalve them they simply swapped the springs around. No different than what I can do in 15 minutes at home.
Therefore I wouldn't recommend them for someone that plans to be on track with sticky tires unless you want to revalve the rears right from the get go. Getting them revalved to 12k would allow you to run the above mentioned rates.
Last edited by Nimpoc; Feb 22, 2014 at 10:11 PM. Reason: mo info
If you know what you want, then PSI straight-up said they'd revalve new-from-them Ohlins to customer spec for no additional cost. It wasn't even clear that you had to buy springs from them, but they aren't going to swap the springs. You get everything in the kit (8k & 10k springs).
Revalving used dampers, which they consider anything that's been installed on a car, requires a rebuild too and is around $250-300 a corner. To these ends I'm kinda curious what the difference is between the lauded Gerrard-spec dampers and current OTS valving. Time has passed and presumably Ohlins updates their spec from time to time? Also worth noting is that you could do quite a few revalves and rebuilds for the ATS upgrade cost.
Even if you're going pretty hard race, it still seems like the Ohlins are the choice for the money. Pro-race is always another level as demonstrated by robevos awesomeness. One just needs to figure out where they really operate...
Revalving used dampers, which they consider anything that's been installed on a car, requires a rebuild too and is around $250-300 a corner. To these ends I'm kinda curious what the difference is between the lauded Gerrard-spec dampers and current OTS valving. Time has passed and presumably Ohlins updates their spec from time to time? Also worth noting is that you could do quite a few revalves and rebuilds for the ATS upgrade cost.
Even if you're going pretty hard race, it still seems like the Ohlins are the choice for the money. Pro-race is always another level as demonstrated by robevos awesomeness. One just needs to figure out where they really operate...
What exactly was the deal with the Gerrard-spec Ohlins? Was the valving really anything exotic, or was it just slightly tweaked for different spring rates?
The Ohlins and AST 5100 both seem like solid choices. Dallas J mentioned that the AST setup has quite a bit more travel than the Ohlins as a result of not having the fancy body length adjustment that the Ohlins setup uses. I like the idea of having extra droop travel available to keep all four wheels down more frequently.
Does anyone know the stroke of the Ohlins vs the AST 5100 setup by chance?
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