Nope, R&T's were for sure before DFV's!.

I have been around here for a loooong time! I was buying suspension when the DFV"s just came out.

So let me get this straight. You bought your stuff setup from Robispec that is Gerrard spec? Why on earth are you questioning that you have the right spring rates then? Both of those guys use to be on the forums and all that info has been talked about over the past 10 years. If they never divulged exact numbers there are many that found out what then were. FWIW, There have also been threads by the fastest EVO"s over the years that have told every single part they have on the car.

 

Looks like there is a little confusion going on here so I'll jump in and save the day

Two different acronyms

R&T- Road & Track
DFV- Dual Flow Valve

The original Ohlins were simply the Road & Track. The newer models are still Road & Track's but they are also called the DFV's because, yes you guessed it, they incorporate the Dual Flow Valve technology.

See below
http://www.ohlinsusa.com/road-track-tech

 

Exactly, they called them DFV's only, when they were still making R&T's at the same time.

 

also, almost positive gerard specs never came with ohlins springs, only hypercos.

 

Yeah, they are Gerrard spec purchased from Robispec (Used). My suspension is definitely not stiff enough for R-comps and how I drive the car. At my last event my rear tires were around 125F, and I could not get them hotter to save my life. The car has massive body roll to the point of picking up both inside tires on high speed turns.



The fronts are definitely Ohlins, they're labelled as such in the picture on the previous page. The rears match in color, but both sides have no markings.

My question has nothing to do with whether they're actually Gerrard spec or not, I believe Robispec for selling me as advertised, and even being rebuilt by Performance Shock was able to definitely identify the valving was not stock when they were rebuilt last year.
My question remains, what would be the spring rates on the rear of the car? I'm trying to locate a shop locally with a spring rate tool to finally put this to bed.

 

pull em out and wipe em off, they may be marked somewhere. hyperco's arent marked very well i found. might be easier to just get a set you know the rate of. gerard spec valving can handle in the 14-16k range per paul himself.

 

If you are picking up both inside tires at the same time, then increasing the springrates will only help by decreasing lateral grip.

 

but again i feel like its what i stated in the other thread. if hes lifting both inside due to lack of roll resistance, shouldnt he be able to add spring rate to a certain point before it just starts decreasing the lateral grip?

 

Roll resistance does not prevent weight transfer; it only keep the chassis parallel to weight distribution.

 

this will sound like a dumb response to that since im probably missing something as usual but...

if he keeps it more parallel shouldnt the inside tire keep more contact with the ground?

 

Parallel to weight distribution, not the ground.

Think about it this way: the ultimate in stiff suspension is a gokart, which doesn't have any suspension at all. When weight transfer reaches a certain point, the inside wheels come off the ground. Can't make it any stiffer, but it still happens.

 

Looking at that picture, your car doesn't seem to be that bad regarding to the lifting of the inside wheels. Front one is a bit higher than the rear, but it should be since you seem to be on throttle and accelerating. Inside rear is also partially unloaded, but it doesn't seem to be that close for taking off. It might be that you have some worst cases of lifting than this one, which prompted you to bring it up here, but the one that you posted is not that bad to me.

Now, you do have lots of unknown on the springs and shocks and that would be pretty unsettling to me! If you are there to chase every last bit of time that is out there, you better know what you are running. Springs are cheap and getting something similar to what you have will give you an opportunity for a quick and simple test, which will give you lots of good info.

I would also like to know what dampening characteristic your shocks/struts actually have and it might be useful to send those to someone to dyno them. This is not that crucial at this point (more a nice to know), but from all of the stuff the one thing that is missing the most is how your car feels.

You have to have some clues about what your car is doing at the different phases of the turn and what is to be improved on your car if anything. That conversation would bring you much more benefit, but you need to get things there first.

Good luck!

 

You don't state if your car has diff mods, eg ACD tune, restacked rear or 12-plate - all of them will make the rear tires work more.

 

It will reduce inertia from the weight transfer though.

Performance shock sent me a shock dyno charte when they were rebuilt, but I don't really know enough about suspsension to mean anything to me. I'm a highschool graduate without that college smarts!

I have tons and tons of knowlege and experience with what the car's doing, entering, mid point, and leaving the corners! Just to put it into text would be a book! lol

I definitely agree about the 'unknown' spring thing, hence why I'm looking into changing things up. Luckily, they're cheap and easy to experiement with. I just have a lot of time into the current setup now that I need to just man up and change. I bought the car new in 06, and drove it to work for 6 years, hence the soft springs.

Car has an ACD reflash, but no work on the rear diff.

 

i'm pretty surprised to hear you're getting power oversteer without ever having touched the rear diff.. can't all be from just the acd tune