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You *should* be able to fit the 285/30 legally. It's shorter than the 265/35, which would definitely help with a lot of the trouble Doug went through with the front.
You *should* be able to fit the 285/30 legally. It's shorter than the 265/35, which would definitely help with a lot of the trouble Doug went through with the front.
I agree Richard, but it certainly wouldn't be easy
I've worked on rolling my fenders the past couple days and the Fender Finisher I mentioned earlier... sucks. Granted I got a cheap, generic one from FleaBay so YMMV with a real-deal Eastwood-branded one but I can't imagine they're massively different in construction-- maybe and hopefully Eastwood uses better, stronger materials to make theirs.
Either way, the tool itself bent before the fender lip did. I could bring it back to shape with a big pliers but it would just bend again on next use. On top of that, and probably common to any brand, since it requires putting the tool on the inside and outside of the fender, it chipped the paint on the outside of the fender.
I had much better success with the old school fender roller. To maintain the stock fender profile, I pushed on the outside of the fender with my hand (as in I stood up and applied as much body weight as possible), following where the roller was on the inside. I figure this not only helped maintain the outer fender profile but also focused/ added pressure on the fender lip, helping it bend.
I also used PDR tools like these which to massage small, focused areas-- worked quite well.
My tires finally showed up, and my SuperPro offset bushing arrives next week. Time to get serious about fitting these 265s.
Originally Posted by 4wd4me
Fitting the rear[INDENT]We were able to clear the trailing arm by about 3mm using a Ciro Design 2.2mm spacer. This may not be enough clearance, depending on tire skirm. So far so good though (test drive around the neighborhood). 2-3mm spacers do not require extended wheel studs, anymore though, and you absolutely should swap them out
Are you still feeling good about the 2mm spacer in the rear? I need to order either the 2mm or 3mm spacers from CDR. Actually I should probably just buy a pair of each because they're cheap enough.
It went pretty well right up until we ruptured a brake line.
Tasha went out first and immediately got 2nd top (scratch) time of the day up to that point. I followed up and bested her on my 2nd run out, but ultimately Dietz (course designer) snagged it for the morning session (they changed the course for the afternoon). Pretty happy with the results.. terrible terrible course\site though, so all in all I can't say much other than that.
Remove the clips connecting the fender liner to the area near the sideskirt and push it back into the fender\door. Zip-tie the **** out of the end of the sidekirt to pull it back away from the tire as far as possible.
The 18x10 +38 RPF1’s require about a 17mm spacer to clear the Brembos, We’re running Ciro Design’s 18.75mm spacer and have about 2 extra mm clearance (5mm~ total) to the caliper. (Expert opinions suggest 3mm~ of clearance, for heat\expansion). That said, with the 17mm spacer we had about 1mm clear to the spring perch, this is with a narrower 60mm spring configuration (on JRZs). So, if you wanted to run less spacer you might want to run a shorter spring combination. Or in our case, we’d remove our tender spring and run a longer main spring… or you could run crash\camber bolts to pull it outward, then max out your camber plates to get the –camber back. Also, we’re not running as much caster as is possible from the Ciro Design camber plates, if you have those and you’ve maxed them out, you will likely have even more issue with the fender\sideskirt.
[INDENT]There’s a tab at about 2-o’clock from top-center that is for the fender liner to attach to, I pushed it in\up and out of the way using my fingers. We jammed the liner underneath it.
Sorry to revert back to this but my wheels are still on order (have been since February) so I can't do any of my own test fitting yet but I'm trying to be as ready as possible for when I do get them.
Did you (or anyone in this thread) roll the front fenders at all? The lip is so small that it seems like it'd only gain a millimeter or two, and I've seen too many horror stories about cracking the paint on the front fenders, so I only want to do it if necessary.
From: Why do they always call the Evo the Dark Side?
Originally Posted by 4wd4me
It went pretty well right up until we ruptured a brake line.
Tasha went out first and immediately got 2nd top (scratch) time of the day up to that point. I followed up and bested her on my 2nd run out, but ultimately Dietz (course designer) snagged it for the morning session (they changed the course for the afternoon). Pretty happy with the results.. terrible terrible course\site though, so all in all I can't say much other than that.
Cliff's notes - you are pretty sure the bushings are going to be necessary to fit the big wheels, right?
FWIW, I am almost certainly starting the year on 255s. I was weighing whether to even switch off 245's given the expense (it is kind of shocking how much more the 265s are over the 255s), and then I found a local selling a 40-run set of 255-40-17s for $300 and I decided that was a sign I'll probably do the bushings this year and keep my eyes open for a used set of 18x10s as the year goes on.
Are you still feeling good about the 2mm spacer in the rear?
2mm didn't entirely work out. Passenger side rubbed\polished the trailer arm, driver's side was ok. We added another 2mm (4mm~ total, might be 5mm) and they seem to still clear the fender lip ok, so we'll run that for a bit and see what happens.
Cliff's notes - you are pretty sure the bushings are going to be necessary to fit the big wheels, right?
I still haven't driven on my 18x10 + 265 setup because I'm waiting on rear spacers to arrive, but from my static experimentation in the garage: I would guess the offset bushing is necessary if you've added any caster with your top plates. It may be a different story with OEM caster settings, but I wasn't about to undo my whole alignment to test it out.
Originally Posted by Butt Dyno
FWIW, I am almost certainly starting the year on 255s. I was weighing whether to even switch off 245's given the expense (it is kind of shocking how much more the 265s are over the 255s), and then I found a local selling a 40-run set of 255-40-17s for $300 and I decided that was a sign I'll probably do the bushings this year and keep my eyes open for a used set of 18x10s as the year goes on.
The marginal cost of 265s vs 255s was kind of painful, so I really hope that the extra cost, weight, and work are worth it. On the plus side, this whole painful exercise of spending lots of money to go marginally faster is a good reminder of why I shouldn't make the jump to ASP or SM.
FWIW: It was slightly cheaper for me to get the 265 RE-71Rs from my local Costco than through TireRack. Minus the rebate but plus local taxes I got all four for $995, which is still almost $300 more than I would have paid for the 255s.
I still have some usable life left in my 245 setup from last year. If I don't burn through it at local events before I get the 265 setup figured out, I'd like to try a back-to-back 245 vs 265 test at a local event.
I'll probably do the bushings this year and keep my eyes open for a used set of 18x10s as the year goes on.
