EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

After taking some time off from tracking my Evo, I'm getting back into it and am finding that my driving is significantly impaired without the 6 point harnesses and race seats that I used to have in the car before removing my roll bar (back to stock interior now, except for a CG Lock). Biggest issue is that I find I can't upshift in busy sections of the track (or even steady state bumpy turns) because I need both hands on the wheel to stay upright in the seat, so I get to the top of a gear and just maintain speed until the moment the car changes directions and I get a reprieve from the G forces. I also find that my visual perspective of the track is tilted about 45 degrees in the hardest turns, which messes with my ability to look down the track. I've tried using my knee to brace myself in place, but it's not enough. Other than the CG Lock, is there anything else I can safely do? Would a torso belt around the seat be a bad idea in case of rollover? I don't want to use a harness bar for safety reasons and running a fixed back race seat isn't going to work with the stock belt (plus the same roll over concern without a roll bar). Is my only safe alternative to put a roll bar in the car again? It seems like it. Perhaps a dumb question but I can't be the only one who has struggled with this.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Pretty much back to the containment seat. You could get away without the rest, but as you said in your exp having the rest makes all the difference like the seat itself, so you're just arguing with yourself at the end of the day .

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

In my street car, I always pre-tension the belt so its tight around my waist & the lock is activated

Maybe doing that in combination w/the CG lock will help

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Unfortunately I don't think you have many options so Im probably going to say what you've already come to the conclusion of.

Essentially you have stock setup. Next best thing is the CG lock. Then you can look into some 4 points with the stock seats but youre limited when it comes to good 4 points. The only ones I'd recommend is the Schroth 4pt with the ASM. I have a set of those and use a harness bar but I only auto-x so Im not concerned about rollovers honestly. I forget which exact model I have but they need to be mounted with a roll bar or harness bar. I believe Schroth does have a 4pt with ASM that somehow bolts into the backseat area. That may be your best bet actually not that I think about it.

Next you've got 5 and 6 points but youre gunna need a new seat for the sub belts and then as you mentioned at the very least a roll bar since the seats dont collapse which puts you back to where you were prior.

So basically I think you already know where you stand. the 4 points with no harness bar might be your best bet but if you go 4pt only get the Schroth's well, I think Takata makes a set too since theyre the same company. But don't just get any old 4 points bc generally 4 points are dangerous.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

When I street my EvO I run the Schroth ASM w/the Auto control system. Best aggressive street / trackday harness around

ReaperX

iTrader: (5)

You need to be very honest with yourself in assessing what you need at your driving level. From what you posted it seems to me that it would be silly to run anything less than a roll bar and 5-point harness on the track. If you have gotten fast enough to have to go through what you are experiencing with having to brace yourself you need to be planted and secure in the seat. You won't get any faster if you have to hold yourself in. You are also at great risk if you have an incident at speed on track.

My last event of the season just a week ago showed me I need to up my equipment for next season. I have a 4pt rollbar, entry level bucket seat, and 5 pt harness. That was good enough for the Evo IX Bilsteins/Spec R combo. Now that I am on coilovers I had a great deal of trouble holding myself in the seat, and I strapped in uncomfortably tight. My avg Cornering G's were north of 1.1G with the highest being 1.28G. Now I am looking at a full containment seat for next year so I can concentrate on driving rather than struggle to stay still in the seat.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

Thanks for all the comments. I've been mulling this over and I think I am going to go with a welded roll bar. I don't really want to make this car into a race car, but my main use of it is track and autocross, so I think it makes sense. Besides, I still have my seats and harnesses, so they will bolt right in. Then I can use my Hans as well.

In a way, I think I already knew the answer to my own question, but you all helped me confirm it is the only logical way to go forward. I'm not as fast as many of the veterans on here, but I think I'm plenty fast to be dangerous. See you out there. Thanks.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

1.2? Pfffft

ReaperX

iTrader: (5)

You forget I have your data......you don't pull much more with aero and hoosiers.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

If you call that POS replica front bumper aero. However 1.6-1.7 on some of my replies here when I had clear traffic or was chasing, forget which posts though. Sometimes breaching 2 on braking into 10a at like 8/10's. My seat/hans/cage went in before I started doing TT though so to the OP glad to see you choose it.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

At least consider an AP bar? You can always have that boxed in & welded. Most of us have plated the hoop feet for added strength. You can run what ever harness system you choose

See the sticky above to give you some ideas

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

I don't think a prefab bar is right for me. I had a custom welded roll bar in this car before and one of the reasons I cut it out was because it didn't fit me 100% correctly (main hoop too far forward, especially for street driving, and harness bar too low) and I didn't fully trust the worksmanship. I got my previous bar almost free because I was sponsored by the now defunct shop at the time. This time, I'm going to a well-regarded local road race cage builder who has built two other bars for me (not this car) where I was 100% satisfied. By having this bar in exactly the right spot for me with the harness bar at the right level and boxed mounts that I trust, I'm confident I'll be happy (and safer).

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

After getting a quote and thinking about it more, I'm having second thoughts about the welded roll bar approach, mostly because of how much it would hurt the resale value of the car when I decide to move on. Checking out the AP thread now.

Has anyone seen an instance where an Evo 8/9 had a hard roll-over wreck with an AP bar, to see how it held up?

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Rich

The AP bar is stout, using 1.750 x .120 DOM steel. Follow the detail in the sticky thread & make up the sub pan plates under the feet

I use their race roll bar / part no. 60952

Joe

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

Probably a ***** to ship, but I'm thinking about parting out my track stuff and have an ap race bar in the car at the moment.