New setup. Where to start?
Sep 25, 2018, 06:38 AM
#18
Newbie
Thread Starter
Florida has AutoX groups all over. I am in SE FL, I run with Equipe Rapide, Porsche Club and Street Racing Made Safe down here. There is also Gulf Coast Auto Crossers on the west coast, FIRM up north, and plenty of others too. Facebook seems to be the best place for finding out about the next events, for me at least. Welcome!
Sep 25, 2018, 06:52 AM
#19
Newbie
Thread Starter
Understeer out of corners is partially your front diff and possibly driver induced. Rolling into throttle smoother and earlier seems to make quite a bit of difference on the cars attitude on corner exit. Difference between RS and wavetrac is the wavetrac wont break and destroy your t-case. 1way clutch is better, but torsen is ok. Will cause high steering angle push off throttle. Clutch will be open off throttle and lock up better on throttle. Its not an insignificant improvement over the torsen but unfortunately the Mfactory 1way isnt available right now and the cusco is >2k.
I have leads on the following front diffs. Which would you recommend?
RS - Pros: cheapest by far; Cons: might explode? (even at my power level <400/400?)
Quaife - Pros: local deal available, lifetime transferrable warranty; Cons: ??
Wavetrac - Pros: readily available BNIB; Cons: ??
MFactory 1.0 - Pros: one of the best from what I have read ; Cons: more $$, International shipping, and plate wear
MFactory helical - any info on this? didn't know they made this
I am non-ACD, I believe that matters, not quite sure how tho.
Sep 25, 2018, 07:52 AM
#20
100% would pick Mfactory 1.0 from that list. I had both Wavetrac and MFactory, tried both, sold Wavetrac.
100% would never put a OEM front LSD on a 400hp/tq car. That's more than enough to break it and the damage it'll do will far exceed the difference in a getting a stronger diff now. If you look on TRE's IG page, he has pictures of die penetration tests showing the crack propagation area.
100% would never put a OEM front LSD on a 400hp/tq car. That's more than enough to break it and the damage it'll do will far exceed the difference in a getting a stronger diff now. If you look on TRE's IG page, he has pictures of die penetration tests showing the crack propagation area.
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SilviaVsSupra (Sep 25, 2018)
Sep 25, 2018, 08:30 AM
#22
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Thread Starter
Sep 26, 2018, 06:04 AM
#24
Newbie
Thread Starter
Sep 26, 2018, 02:59 PM
#25
Sep 27, 2018, 04:39 AM
#26
Newbie
Thread Starter
yep, that’s it. October 14th
Long as it doesn’t rain, again, it will be a fun event.
Sep 28, 2018, 09:12 AM
#27
Newbie
Thread Starter
My plan is to make small tweaks to get the rear more active. Next event is on a flat go-kart course, so a better baseline course as piper971 mentioned.
Going to stiffen the rear tire carcasses with more psi's, maximus damperingus, remove the extra camber, maybe try a bar adjustment if I still cant get the rear to move.
After that weekend I'm pulling the rear diff to do the 12 plate. Front probably wont happen for a little while =(
Was wondering if a little rear-toe-out would help the rear end want to come out a bit more as well. Can anybody comment on that?
Currently the toe is 0* F&R and have no oversteer unless I trail brake really hard, transitions are great, and no tripod! So its pretty close to amazing, rear is just a bit too planted.
Going to stiffen the rear tire carcasses with more psi's, maximus damperingus, remove the extra camber, maybe try a bar adjustment if I still cant get the rear to move.
After that weekend I'm pulling the rear diff to do the 12 plate. Front probably wont happen for a little while =(
Was wondering if a little rear-toe-out would help the rear end want to come out a bit more as well. Can anybody comment on that?
Currently the toe is 0* F&R and have no oversteer unless I trail brake really hard, transitions are great, and no tripod! So its pretty close to amazing, rear is just a bit too planted.
Sep 28, 2018, 10:38 AM
#28
Evolved Member
My plan is to make small tweaks to get the rear more active. Next event is on a flat go-kart course, so a better baseline course as piper971 mentioned.
Going to stiffen the rear tire carcasses with more psi's, maximus damperingus, remove the extra camber, maybe try a bar adjustment if I still cant get the rear to move.
After that weekend I'm pulling the rear diff to do the 12 plate. Front probably wont happen for a little while =(
Was wondering if a little rear-toe-out would help the rear end want to come out a bit more as well. Can anybody comment on that?
Currently the toe is 0* F&R and have no oversteer unless I trail brake really hard, transitions are great, and no tripod! So its pretty close to amazing, rear is just a bit too planted.
Going to stiffen the rear tire carcasses with more psi's, maximus damperingus, remove the extra camber, maybe try a bar adjustment if I still cant get the rear to move.
After that weekend I'm pulling the rear diff to do the 12 plate. Front probably wont happen for a little while =(
Was wondering if a little rear-toe-out would help the rear end want to come out a bit more as well. Can anybody comment on that?
Currently the toe is 0* F&R and have no oversteer unless I trail brake really hard, transitions are great, and no tripod! So its pretty close to amazing, rear is just a bit too planted.
Perhaps, a bit of extra rebound in the rear would give you the effect you are trying to get without creating anything strange.
Nov 21, 2018, 07:58 AM
#29
Newbie
Thread Starter
Updates:
I added the Weir 12 plate rear LSD, got the opposite of what I was looking for. Car had even more understeer bc the diff was too locked for me to turn-in, and then understeered on the way out too (I think this last part is at least partially due to the amount of rear tire grip and the lack of front LSD).
Got some suggestions here that the diff slide plates may be backwards, causing it to lock fully on decel and only partially on accel. So I swapped back to street tires and am currently trying to verify what it is doing, still not 100% sure since I cant really unleash this thing on the streets. It does oversteer a bit more out of turns now but not like I was expecting. Trying to find a big lot to do circles in. If anyone can tell me an easy way to further verify its engagement is or is not correct, before breaking open the diff to visually check, that would be great.
I also am coming to terms that the c71 slicks is too much for the rest of the setup, so I am going back to a street tire. Plan is a 275/40/17 Toyo R888R, since it is either that or the NT01 and from what I've gathered, the 888r does slightly better at autoX. (car sees mostly autox and maybe 1 or 2 track days per year)
Still trying make the front LSD happen too. Open front diff is a huge bag of suck. Not sure which is my best option yet either. I see now how delicate the balance of part selection and LSD actions, can make on the car.
Open to all feedback.
I added the Weir 12 plate rear LSD, got the opposite of what I was looking for. Car had even more understeer bc the diff was too locked for me to turn-in, and then understeered on the way out too (I think this last part is at least partially due to the amount of rear tire grip and the lack of front LSD).
Got some suggestions here that the diff slide plates may be backwards, causing it to lock fully on decel and only partially on accel. So I swapped back to street tires and am currently trying to verify what it is doing, still not 100% sure since I cant really unleash this thing on the streets. It does oversteer a bit more out of turns now but not like I was expecting. Trying to find a big lot to do circles in. If anyone can tell me an easy way to further verify its engagement is or is not correct, before breaking open the diff to visually check, that would be great.
I also am coming to terms that the c71 slicks is too much for the rest of the setup, so I am going back to a street tire. Plan is a 275/40/17 Toyo R888R, since it is either that or the NT01 and from what I've gathered, the 888r does slightly better at autoX. (car sees mostly autox and maybe 1 or 2 track days per year)
Still trying make the front LSD happen too. Open front diff is a huge bag of suck. Not sure which is my best option yet either. I see now how delicate the balance of part selection and LSD actions, can make on the car.
Open to all feedback.
Nov 26, 2018, 08:23 AM
#30
Newbie
Thread Starter
Ended up with a set of 255 Sport Cup 2's
Expecting to raise tire pressures and decrease camber just a bit, can anybody confirm?
I'm still thinking, based on how little oversteer I can produce, the rear diff plates are probably backwards, so I am going to get in there first chance I get. Still have my fingers crossed for a holiday deal on a front LSD as well.
Expecting to raise tire pressures and decrease camber just a bit, can anybody confirm?
I'm still thinking, based on how little oversteer I can produce, the rear diff plates are probably backwards, so I am going to get in there first chance I get. Still have my fingers crossed for a holiday deal on a front LSD as well.