Anyone using these? Haven’t read about them anywhere yet.

https://professionalawesome.com/prod...-camber-locks/

Interesting. For the Motons at least, they come with brackets that you can swap out depending on how much camber you want at the hub vs the camber plate, which also has the effect of limiting the ability of the bolt to slip.




Do the Ohlins, JRZ, MCS, etc have similar setups?

Not necessary for the evo because the camber bolt has two settings and it can't slip. This is intended for other mac strut cars where the camber adjustment is a dynamic range and is controlled by spinning the eccentric.

I have seen this on most racing setups for the evo.. like Reiger, Sachs Racing.. etc..

Just to re-post this video and remind people, there is a lot of slop in the fit of the eccentric bolt to the hub and the bolt to the strut. Some struts have more clearance than others, but there is typically at least a degree difference pushing in/pulling out of the hub for a given eccentric position on the Evo.

i just got new ones and they were TIGHT. i think these are a wear item

That video that Dallas posted is a great reminder. The factory bolts are not a wear item if them are flipped properly. You dont twist them in the hole but rather remove and install the other side if you do so please. Some struts have larger slots but even like my Ohlins for example the slot doesnt seem that large but still a good amount of play right there. And that is something that even when tight I can see shifting. with those offset spacers it can't shift. Cool concept IMO.

Yeah, I recently thought my front wheel bearings were going because my front wheel rocked a bit when on a lift. But then I realized that it was my Ohlins coilover rocking slightly. I re-tightened the ride height set screws on the coilovers and retorqued the strut bolts, but it made no difference and both right and left sides have the same slight play.

i didnt even know you physically could twist it in the hole

What has play? Like similiar to the video Dallas posted? Bc if so that is just to illustrate the slop in the holes and once tightened up there should be zero play there. The secret to max camber is to pry outward at bottom to pull the bottom of the wheel outward when tightening those bolts.
Im not sure you can without damaging anything but point remains that the bolts should be pulled out vs spun. In general when removing a fastener it's best practice to hold the bolt head and zip off the nut but in this case even more so or else you risk damaging the eccentric. I've had mine out sooooo many times over the years and I still rock the factory bolts there so I'd say no if done properly they really arent a wear item.

yea idk i can't change with it in the strut at all. always hold it with the 19mm on the other side when i tighten and untighten, and tolerances on the ohlins are very tight

The ohlin clearances are looser than the OEM Bilsteins, but if you didnt hold the bolt so it stays in the 90 or 270deg position, the wedging of the eccentric portion on the bolt will change max camber by a not insignificant value.

My method when tightening these bolts is to use a jack with a block of wood under the rotor to bias everything to max negative camber. Tighten the bolt snug but not torqued. Put the wheel on and pry it back within that slop range to get exactly minimum tire to strut clearance (If thats an issue for you from say trying to fit max tire), pull the wheel, torque the strut/hub nuts.

Depending on what Ive wanted for for camber or tire clearance Ive had the bolt in both direction and at all the extremes within the slop.

And what I mean by the slop range vs bolt flip. In my current setup my car may have a range of 3-4deg camber with bolt one way, and 2-3 deg the other way.