2020 STU Discussion
Competed in STU at the Mid Divisionals this past weekend. The fun thing was, we ran EXACT copies of last years Nationals courses. This was confirmed by multiple people there as the cone paint marks were still there from that event.
I recently added the Ciro Design adjustable endlink brackets for the front bar. I love these things as adjustments are simple. I do feel like this has helped with keeping the inner rear tire from not lifting even remotely close to what it did on my previous car/setup. I know it's not really a massive deal to lift on entry, but it was interesting to see all 4 tires stay almost planted.
Day 1 I had a bunch of under-steer powering out of turns, so I dialed the front bar down. Day two went much better and I could get the car to rotate on entry and on exit.
I did have a co-driver for the event. Both days he absolutely destroyed me in the slaloms. I lost approximately 1.1 seconds to him from about 4 slalom areas over the two courses. I just haven't had enough time in the car to realistically feel completely comfortable to how it's going to hook through the slaloms especially. There was video of me, showing that i was WAY off the cones, so that's something I need to work on. Plus I'm still trying to dial in the JRZ's. I feel I may have been running too low of compression, as I had a similar feeling on the old Reinharte 3 ways when I was on low compression settings.
Here's a slow mo of how bad one of my slaloms looked...
Short slow-mo vid
I recently added the Ciro Design adjustable endlink brackets for the front bar. I love these things as adjustments are simple. I do feel like this has helped with keeping the inner rear tire from not lifting even remotely close to what it did on my previous car/setup. I know it's not really a massive deal to lift on entry, but it was interesting to see all 4 tires stay almost planted.
Day 1 I had a bunch of under-steer powering out of turns, so I dialed the front bar down. Day two went much better and I could get the car to rotate on entry and on exit.
I did have a co-driver for the event. Both days he absolutely destroyed me in the slaloms. I lost approximately 1.1 seconds to him from about 4 slalom areas over the two courses. I just haven't had enough time in the car to realistically feel completely comfortable to how it's going to hook through the slaloms especially. There was video of me, showing that i was WAY off the cones, so that's something I need to work on. Plus I'm still trying to dial in the JRZ's. I feel I may have been running too low of compression, as I had a similar feeling on the old Reinharte 3 ways when I was on low compression settings.
Here's a slow mo of how bad one of my slaloms looked...
Short slow-mo vid
Last edited by LV///R; Aug 11, 2020 at 05:57 AM.
Back to manual or DCCT choice for Evo X, I don't think I agree completely with the above. One thing I do agree for sure is that launching it is way too hard and it is not a good choice for Pro Solo because of that one. But, for Solo 2, I think auto trainy has more advantages compared to the labor intensive multi operation process that 5 speed brings! There is even an extra pedal that you have to use there!! 
Joking aside, I have had some of the issues with trainy not wanting to shift out of the corners, but that is the case only for the automatic mode. It happens only when you have a bit faster and longer corner with a decent straight section that follows. Basically, thanks to going faster through the corner with throttle being open longer, it thinks/wants to shift to 3rd (even though it should not) and due to all the extra load that was built, it sees a bit too much torque and says nope, not this time. But all of that is enough to not be worth the risk at an important event, like Nationals with only 3 runs. Manual mode takes complete care of that and it is not an issue.
But, when running in auto mode, it does go to 3rd way more time than one would expect. I usually see 3 to 4 times that to happen, and it is all benefiting your run. The best part is that it is all so seamless and you barely can notice it while running - watching the video of your run shows those details.
Still, since on most courses, I would keep it in manual, all these auto shift have no benefits. But, you can still easily shift up and down then needed without affecting your car at all and for those spots that want you to go 65 mph or so, it is a great help. Gearing is also a bit lower than 5 speed, so you get a bit more umph out of that - not much, but still some.
It does have tendency to overheat here and there, but lots of times that is caused by slightly pressing on the brake pedal during the runs. Left foot brake-rs need to be more aware of that. Two drivers don't help this either, but cooler is right there and spraying it between the runs helps for sure.
So, at the end if it, if I would have a choice to choose, I would still go for 6 speed one!

Joking aside, I have had some of the issues with trainy not wanting to shift out of the corners, but that is the case only for the automatic mode. It happens only when you have a bit faster and longer corner with a decent straight section that follows. Basically, thanks to going faster through the corner with throttle being open longer, it thinks/wants to shift to 3rd (even though it should not) and due to all the extra load that was built, it sees a bit too much torque and says nope, not this time. But all of that is enough to not be worth the risk at an important event, like Nationals with only 3 runs. Manual mode takes complete care of that and it is not an issue.
But, when running in auto mode, it does go to 3rd way more time than one would expect. I usually see 3 to 4 times that to happen, and it is all benefiting your run. The best part is that it is all so seamless and you barely can notice it while running - watching the video of your run shows those details.
Still, since on most courses, I would keep it in manual, all these auto shift have no benefits. But, you can still easily shift up and down then needed without affecting your car at all and for those spots that want you to go 65 mph or so, it is a great help. Gearing is also a bit lower than 5 speed, so you get a bit more umph out of that - not much, but still some.
It does have tendency to overheat here and there, but lots of times that is caused by slightly pressing on the brake pedal during the runs. Left foot brake-rs need to be more aware of that. Two drivers don't help this either, but cooler is right there and spraying it between the runs helps for sure.
So, at the end if it, if I would have a choice to choose, I would still go for 6 speed one!
Competed in STU at the Mid Divisionals this past weekend. The fun thing was, we ran EXACT copies of last years Nationals courses. This was confirmed by multiple people there as the cone paint marks were still there from that event.
I recently added the Ciro Design adjustable endlink brackets for the front bar. I love these things as adjustments are simple. I do feel like this has helped with keeping the inner rear tire from not lifting even remotely close to what it did on my previous car/setup. I know it's not really a massive deal to lift on entry, but it was interesting to see all 4 tires stay almost planted.
Day 1 I had a bunch of under-steer powering out of turns, so I dialed the front bar down. Day two went much better and I could get the car to rotate on entry and on exit.
I did have a co-driver for the event. Both days he absolutely destroyed me in the slaloms. I lost approximately 1.1 seconds to him from about 4 slalom areas over the two courses. I just haven't had enough time in the car to realistically feel completely comfortable to how it's going to hook through the slaloms especially. There was video of me, showing that i was WAY off the cones, so that's something I need to work on. Plus I'm still trying to dial in the JRZ's. I feel I may have been running too low of compression, as I had a similar feeling on the old Reinharte 3 ways when I was on low compression settings.
Here's a slow mo of how bad one of my slaloms looked...
Short slow-mo vid
I recently added the Ciro Design adjustable endlink brackets for the front bar. I love these things as adjustments are simple. I do feel like this has helped with keeping the inner rear tire from not lifting even remotely close to what it did on my previous car/setup. I know it's not really a massive deal to lift on entry, but it was interesting to see all 4 tires stay almost planted.
Day 1 I had a bunch of under-steer powering out of turns, so I dialed the front bar down. Day two went much better and I could get the car to rotate on entry and on exit.
I did have a co-driver for the event. Both days he absolutely destroyed me in the slaloms. I lost approximately 1.1 seconds to him from about 4 slalom areas over the two courses. I just haven't had enough time in the car to realistically feel completely comfortable to how it's going to hook through the slaloms especially. There was video of me, showing that i was WAY off the cones, so that's something I need to work on. Plus I'm still trying to dial in the JRZ's. I feel I may have been running too low of compression, as I had a similar feeling on the old Reinharte 3 ways when I was on low compression settings.
Here's a slow mo of how bad one of my slaloms looked...
Short slow-mo vid
Yes, the endlinks too, so up to 150% stiffness from what I recall.
Super easy to adjust. Literally need a couple 14mm wrenches and it literally takes seconds.
awesome. going to try to get this done today, to the 4th setting, one towards stiffer. do you feel the difference?
At this past weekends events, we started the day with the Ciro brackets on full stiff just to see if that alone would take much of it away. It did. The car understeered at the limits so for day 2 we adjusted it to the 3rd holes instead. Feels way more neutral with a hint of rotation on entry and exit at this setting for our setup. It SEEMS to have helped prevent the inside rear tire from lifting too!
Absolutely did I feel the difference. Prior to it installed, the evo was actually quite loose for my liking. So...
At this past weekends events, we started the day with the Ciro brackets on full stiff just to see if that alone would take much of it away. It did. The car understeered at the limits so for day 2 we adjusted it to the 3rd holes instead. Feels way more neutral with a hint of rotation on entry and exit at this setting for our setup. It SEEMS to have helped prevent the inside rear tire from lifting too!
At this past weekends events, we started the day with the Ciro brackets on full stiff just to see if that alone would take much of it away. It did. The car understeered at the limits so for day 2 we adjusted it to the 3rd holes instead. Feels way more neutral with a hint of rotation on entry and exit at this setting for our setup. It SEEMS to have helped prevent the inside rear tire from lifting too!
I believe the 2nd hole is: http://cirodesignracing.com/suspension/
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 154
From: Why do they always call the Evo the Dark Side?
Based on the town hall it looks like the make-STU-awesome proposal is going to be pushed to at-soonest 2022 implementation.
I wrote a letter
I wrote a letter
Request: Hi, I missed the town hall but caught up on RRAX afterwards.
In my opinion, the proposal should be applied to the 2021 season.
* Delaying it means that people are going to wait to buy new cars, or to refresh their build for the new rules. It would mean another year where the class will likely not grow to include new competitors. The fact that changes are not just maybe-coming, but definitely-coming, means folks might sit things out entirely.
* People might have to spend money on in-between solutions. For instance, buying smaller wheels / tires than you would have if the proposal had gone through. Or if someone's clutch/diff dies, and they have to choose between keeping the car legal for 2021 vs spending that money on making the car more competitive/reliable in 2022.
* People have had plenty of warning that this is coming.
* I assume part of the rationale is not wanting to force existing competitors, who may have had a bad year in one way or another, to upgrade their existing STU cars in order to stay competitive. 1) I don't think any of the mods besides maybe wheels and tires are so game changing that they'd be required to stay competitive, 2) people are probably going to need to buy new wheels and tires at the start of the year anyway.
I'm mostly worried that the uncertainty is going to hurt participation and dig a bigger competitive hole that the class then has to dig out of in 2022.
Thank you,
In my opinion, the proposal should be applied to the 2021 season.
* Delaying it means that people are going to wait to buy new cars, or to refresh their build for the new rules. It would mean another year where the class will likely not grow to include new competitors. The fact that changes are not just maybe-coming, but definitely-coming, means folks might sit things out entirely.
* People might have to spend money on in-between solutions. For instance, buying smaller wheels / tires than you would have if the proposal had gone through. Or if someone's clutch/diff dies, and they have to choose between keeping the car legal for 2021 vs spending that money on making the car more competitive/reliable in 2022.
* People have had plenty of warning that this is coming.
* I assume part of the rationale is not wanting to force existing competitors, who may have had a bad year in one way or another, to upgrade their existing STU cars in order to stay competitive. 1) I don't think any of the mods besides maybe wheels and tires are so game changing that they'd be required to stay competitive, 2) people are probably going to need to buy new wheels and tires at the start of the year anyway.
I'm mostly worried that the uncertainty is going to hurt participation and dig a bigger competitive hole that the class then has to dig out of in 2022.
Thank you,
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 154
From: Why do they always call the Evo the Dark Side?









