After getting tired of how tiring ($$$) the GTR gets for replacing parts after taking it out, I've just scooped up another 03 VIII. (haven't had one since 05-ish)

That being said, I'm looking to build specifically for AX and possibly start some entry level TT. I'm planning on just throwing in an English Racing "street" crate, since I don't plan for big power at all. (GTR is great for that )
I was curious if anyone here has any experience with the using a 2.4L LR, vs any of the other 2.x options. Also is the PT 2622 still a good option as well, or there a better option for the application? If the answer is still FP Green these days I wouldn't argue with that either LOL.

TYIA for any advice you can provide.

 

Would be great to have another Evo AutoXing in the Oregon region.

As for motor options, the 2.2l (2.4l block, 94mm crank) is still the most dominate combo. Ive tried 2.0 (obviously), 2.4l (DSM days), 2.3l (100mm crank took that out), and now 2.2l (Now in its 6th year in the car).

If I were to put together my ideal combo, i would be the 2.2l with 4.53 (OEM) or 4.31 final drive.

Alternatively, a 2.4l with 4.31 or 4.11 would be great too. Just need to pick how far you want to rev the motor and pick something in the mid 70s for top speed in 2nd for the tire you decide to run.

For turbo, spool is king. Any moment waiting for boost is 100x worse for time than falloff up top. I run the Blouch 1.0xtr which is the old BBK Full with a BB center. Green is an option as well but not with the high flow options as those hurt spool too much. FWIW, my blouch is like 8 years old now.

 

Awesome, this is exactly what I wanted to hear! I know turbos have come a looooong way since my original evo, so I wasn't sure what's "king" of quick spool these days. I friend of mine just mentioned the blouch dom 3xtr the other day, so it's great that we were on the right track.

The main reason I was looking at the 2.4LR was because I'm slightly disabled after a motorcycle accident and shifting is getting much harder with age, so my thought process was if i can keep the rpms higher less need to shift. But if the 2.2 is good enough that's fine for me too, since I plan to also throw in an xshift sequential to help me out a bit.

Do you do actual sanctioned AX with SCCA or anything? So far I've been joining a friend at the Porsche owners club in the south lot, and it's extremely fun, but I want to get into much much more competitive scene.

Edit: literally just saw your signature, gratz on those podiums/champs!!

 

Yep, randomly today I realized this year is my 20th year Autocrossing. I run with Oregon SCCA and am Chief of Tech. I do all the Packwood tours and try to travel to a few of the closer Tours (Crows, Vegas, or Lincoln) each year. For competition, Oregon Region has most of more competitive people. But for bulk runs some of the smaller clubs will just lap all day long.

I personally hate the distraction of shifting at events, but ~74-76mph is usually plenty. Occasionally you hit rev limiter but its short lived.

The 3.0 is going to be way to big for AutoX. The 2.0 is borderline with a stroker but will get you into the mid 500s for HP. The 1.0 is a spool monster but taps out around 500whp. More than enough to break parts if you look through my IG (https://www.instagram.com/ssb_design/)

 

Holy 20yrs!!! Wow that's quite the accomplishment! Congrats on that as well!

With the 2.2 at 4.31 FD what gear are you in when you're tapping ~75, 3rd?

Yeah I looked at them after he mentioned it and came to basically the same conclusion haha, not the right one for the job. Also I suppose since I have an actual project car now I should reactive my instagram especially seeing how I'd actually like to become less of a recluse and get to know more people in AX and TT.

 

Alright, I just had a quick look at your instagram and website, and we're definitely going to need to talk shop. your fabs are AMAZING. What are the odds that the first person to reply to the thread is local, and is the real deal, wow.

 

I like the 2.2l. Mine are 4g63 based.

a 2.4 would be fun to try but I’ve been hesitant to commit.

Dallas is the real deal. His parts transform the car.

 

Racecars get 2.2L. The 94mm crank keeps things happier.

And FP green on a 2.2 will rip at autocross with the right cams.

 

based on my research it does seem like every serious/legit race car runs the 2.2

 

A 2.0 long rod is probably the best if you can build something that will shift at high RPM and keeps oil pressure.

But I wouldnt hesitate to run a 2.4l with 4.31 or 4.11 gears because the trans really likes shifting below 8k better than above 8k.

 

The long rod doesn't help anything. Stock 4g63 rod ratio is already better than any B or K series Honda.

 

That's fair. There is merit in the 2.4 block at least being attainable for cheap as a starting point. Well, for those of us with pick n pulls.

Ive been eyeing some basic engine machining tools for my CNCs to build a poor mans 2.4 for a project. Been struggling to find exact weights of motors, but the 4G is pretty dang light. Comparable to modern aluminum blocks. A 4G mated to a CD009 for swap in RWD applications could be pretty nice.

 

Yes, for a stroker I agree. The 94mm crank with 156mm rods in the 64 block is a great combo.

However, we have revved the 94/150 in a 63 block to 9500 without any issues as well. The 64 block is nice because it's still a lot cheaper to replace. And the bit of extra displacement never hurts from the larger bore.

 

Is that 9500 in a drag/street application or track though? Personally I worry more about sustained time on the rev limiter because AutoX. But of course that comes to building for your application.

For a track car, I was just looking at on of my charts and a 2.4l with a 4500-7500 rpm power band would be pretty good with stock gearing.
1st - 27-45
2nd - 39 - 65
3rd - 52 - 87
4th - 69 - 115
5th - 99 - 165

Plenty of RPM to spin a high flowing turbo, plenty of gear overlap, and the torque with the 2.4 to lug down to 4k if needed. The 3-4 speed range is really good too.

 

94/150 has a better rod ratio than a 2.4LR (1.6 vs 1.56). I wouldn't spin any road course 4g past 8500-9000. Mostly because likely not running a large enough turbo for it to matter anyways. And the 1.6 rod ratio is still better than or close to the aforementioned Hondas (b18 1.58, K20 1.62, k24 1.54). I think you're discounting the stresses a drag engine sees (7500rpm launch, 45psi+ boost), and maybe missing that the clearances the engine are assembled at, and the stroke selected (for the engine's use and expected output) play a far larger role in reliability/longevity than the rod ratio in the available combinations we have. Especially when all the rod rations for a 94mm combo are within 3.5% of each other in the 1.6-1.66 range (left out 159mm rod because those are hard to get).