Stance vs Buddy Club
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Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: North Dallas, TX
Stance vs Buddy Club
Hey guys. I was curious about seeing who all is either running the stance super sport(+) or Buddy club coilovers. Ive searched the threads for reviews but everyones different so I decided to ask the guys in the DFW area. Have you had any issues with either or? Anyone not please with ride quality etc or just have any good info to share. I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
These are both "pick your color" coilovers like BC, Megan, KSport, etc. If you're not willing to spend $2k+ on a set of coilovers you're better off with a quality set of lowering springs.
Stance and FortuneAuto are better than your run of the mill coilovers, but they're still not as good as "real" brands. After my friend's experience with Stance, my opinion remains the same.
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: North Dallas, TX
Well eventually when I get my rpf1s I would like to lower the car and springs just dont see to be low enough for what I plan to have the car look like so I want to do coilovers. I dont track the car and if I were it would be very very little so its more of just lowering it.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Well eventually when I get my rpf1s I would like to lower the car and springs just dont see to be low enough for what I plan to have the car look like so I want to do coilovers. I dont track the car and if I were it would be very very little so its more of just lowering it.
There are a specific reason Swift, GTWorx, Eibach do not lower more with springs.
If you wanted look, why even ask the experts? Spend the least you can. Ruin the car. Enjoy the look.
If just lowering the car...get Eibachs or Swifts.
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From: Dallas / Fort Worth
Whiteline roll center correction kit and bump steer correction kit for the evo help correct this geometry for a lowered car.
If you're just going to roll around on the streets and not throw it around turns, it's probably not an issue. It's just when you want to turn -- the camber might go positive in the front as it loads up (this is typical for a McPherson strut) and the rear tire will try to steer out or in (I forget which) as it loads up.
Want to see why lowering the front suspension too much is bad? Watch the video. Once the lower control arm outer edge goes up beyond horizontal, camber begins to REDUCE the further up the wheel travels. So make a turn and the tire loads up, bye bye camber and you plow like you're planting a corn field --
The way to counter act this is to put in a LARGE amount of static negative camber and work very hard to prevent the front from loading up too much (stiff sway and stiff springs) so you don't lose too much camber when turning.
In the vein of sub $2000 coilovers, it is a matter of pick your poison. Would you rather get punched or kicked? On cheap coil overs, the dampening is extremely progressive meaning the faster the movement the harder the resistance so turns and transitions are smooth but hitting bumps will feel like a beating no matter which springs you run.
I think that about sums it up wouldn't you say, Goofygrin?
Top dollar suspension, like the AST single and double adjustable inverted systems, have digressive valving. This means the faster the transition, like bumps and potholes, and the shock releases faster with a specialized internal valve of sorts so you get the performance of a coilover when you want it but the softness of a stock feeling suspension when you hit a bump. That's what you pay the big bucks for. Up to $5000.
OK Way more information that what you wanted to know I'm sure -- but it's all very relevant and very important.
I split the difference and run KW Variant 3. I think they are very good for the price and ride very well. Also handle pretty good too and have plenty of adjustments.
Last edited by Evo_Someday; Aug 18, 2012 at 09:45 PM.
for just rolling around the street with a "not curb scraping" drop then a set of springs will give him the best ride.
The cheaper coilovers (including mine, but it was on purpose for the track) will give you a harsher/annoying ride.
Jeremy (evo_someday) hit all the points (although it's damping not dampening).
The cheaper coilovers (including mine, but it was on purpose for the track) will give you a harsher/annoying ride.
Jeremy (evo_someday) hit all the points (although it's damping not dampening).
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
I know you already know this, smike, but I'll mention it for the OP.
Whiteline roll center correction kit and bump steer correction kit for the evo help correct this geometry for a lowered car.
If you're just going to roll around on the streets and not throw it around turns, it's probably not an issue. It's just when you want to turn -- the camber might go positive in the front as it loads up (this is typical for a McPherson strut) and the rear tire will try to steer out or in (I forget which) as it loads up.
Want to see why lowering the front suspension too much is bad? Watch the video. Once the lower control arm outer edge goes up beyond horizontal, camber begins to REDUCE the further up the wheel travels. So make a turn and the tire loads up, bye bye camber and you plow like you're planting a corn field -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2D0BHUm2BI
The way to counter act this is to put in a LARGE amount of static negative camber and work very hard to prevent the front from loading up too much (stiff sway and stiff springs) so you don't lose too much camber when turning.
In the vein of sub $2000 coilovers, it is a matter of pick your poison. Would you rather get punched or kicked? On cheap coil overs, the dampening is extremely progressive meaning the faster the movement the harder the resistance so turns and transitions are smooth but hitting bumps will feel like a beating no matter which springs you run.
I think that about sums it up wouldn't you say, Goofygrin?
Top dollar suspension, like the AST single and double adjustable inverted systems, have digressive valving. This means the faster the transition, like bumps and potholes, and the shock releases faster with a specialized internal valve of sorts so you get the performance of a coilover when you want it but the softness of a stock feeling suspension when you hit a bump. That's what you pay the big bucks for. Up to $5000.
OK Way more information that what you wanted to know I'm sure -- but it's all very relevant and very important.
I split the difference and run KW Variant 3. I think they are very good for the price and ride very well. Also handle pretty good too and have plenty of adjustments.
Whiteline roll center correction kit and bump steer correction kit for the evo help correct this geometry for a lowered car.
If you're just going to roll around on the streets and not throw it around turns, it's probably not an issue. It's just when you want to turn -- the camber might go positive in the front as it loads up (this is typical for a McPherson strut) and the rear tire will try to steer out or in (I forget which) as it loads up.
Want to see why lowering the front suspension too much is bad? Watch the video. Once the lower control arm outer edge goes up beyond horizontal, camber begins to REDUCE the further up the wheel travels. So make a turn and the tire loads up, bye bye camber and you plow like you're planting a corn field -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2D0BHUm2BI
The way to counter act this is to put in a LARGE amount of static negative camber and work very hard to prevent the front from loading up too much (stiff sway and stiff springs) so you don't lose too much camber when turning.
In the vein of sub $2000 coilovers, it is a matter of pick your poison. Would you rather get punched or kicked? On cheap coil overs, the dampening is extremely progressive meaning the faster the movement the harder the resistance so turns and transitions are smooth but hitting bumps will feel like a beating no matter which springs you run.
I think that about sums it up wouldn't you say, Goofygrin?
Top dollar suspension, like the AST single and double adjustable inverted systems, have digressive valving. This means the faster the transition, like bumps and potholes, and the shock releases faster with a specialized internal valve of sorts so you get the performance of a coilover when you want it but the softness of a stock feeling suspension when you hit a bump. That's what you pay the big bucks for. Up to $5000.
OK Way more information that what you wanted to know I'm sure -- but it's all very relevant and very important.
I split the difference and run KW Variant 3. I think they are very good for the price and ride very well. Also handle pretty good too and have plenty of adjustments.
I got cheap coilovers so I guess I ruined my car.
I added BC coilovers because I asked people that had them. All were positive info, and got lucky on a cheap set. I don't auto cross, or enjoy the potential of the evo to the fullest. I enjoy it on the streets, and love how it looks and most important rides. The car isn't slammed, but like mentioned above, I'm doing it to remove the 4x4 wheel gap. If this car was a track car, then yes, I would of gone a different route.
I added big heavy wheels on my evo too so lets see some bashing there.
OP asked about 2 different coilovers. Info provided was educating, but off subject. OP even stated it was just to remove wheel gap.
I do agree with everybody on here thou. There is just a different type of cookie for everybody and their purpose.
I added BC coilovers because I asked people that had them. All were positive info, and got lucky on a cheap set. I don't auto cross, or enjoy the potential of the evo to the fullest. I enjoy it on the streets, and love how it looks and most important rides. The car isn't slammed, but like mentioned above, I'm doing it to remove the 4x4 wheel gap. If this car was a track car, then yes, I would of gone a different route.
I added big heavy wheels on my evo too so lets see some bashing there.
OP asked about 2 different coilovers. Info provided was educating, but off subject. OP even stated it was just to remove wheel gap.
I do agree with everybody on here thou. There is just a different type of cookie for everybody and their purpose.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Cheap coil overs on a $30-40k rally/tarmac built car.
Anyone else see whats wrong with that?
And I'd argue you are no where near the potential of the Evos handling on that setup. It rides stiffer, that does not inherently mean it handles better.
Could have removed the "4x4" gap with proper springs at take into account motion ratio, strut stroke and valving, and roll center.
Anyone else see whats wrong with that?
And I'd argue you are no where near the potential of the Evos handling on that setup. It rides stiffer, that does not inherently mean it handles better.
Could have removed the "4x4" gap with proper springs at take into account motion ratio, strut stroke and valving, and roll center.