Hey guys still have a few things for sale

HKS 272 CAMSHAFTS
GT3076R TURBO KIT(OR TURBO ONLY)
FIC 850cc INJECTORS
SBR FMIC GARRETT CORE 24X12X3.5

The turbo kit consist's of HAFE Stainless Steel Cast manifold, Garrett ball bearing turbo with a .63 turbine housing, HAFE Stainless Steel Cast O2 housing, Tial 44mm wastegate with both dump and recirculation pipe, 4inch intake with pipe/filter/ and a 4inch maf adapter to allow use of the stock maf sensor. And stainless oil feed line with filter , and oil return line.

The nice thing about this kit is the fact that it will bolt to either the stock downpipe or any downpipe that bolts to factory location , which is almost every downpipe

The Camshafts had made a +28 whp on a before and after with the stock turbo.
The GT30R had gone 11.1's @ 125 mph. It has only seen up to 28psi.

The GT30R turbo is a very good street turbo, hitting 20psi @ 4100 rpm with much more topend pull. I think there is probably another 4-5 mph to be had out of this setup if it was tuned with C16

 

anyone know any trick to get the plastic screws out of the bottom of the bumper? they just keep turning and wont come out?

 

those are pop-it style fasteners, right?

i have a pocket knife with a thin blade that i usually use to kind of jimmy in there and pop the inside pieces out if it won't just uncrew like normal.

 

yeah with a phillips head screw

 

If you work on your car on a regular basis. Just discard the undertray. All it ends up being is in your way all the time. But if you really dont work on it or race it alot then needing to get it off again might not be so often. If you daily drive your Evo then you may want to keep it on if not I say Hell with it

 

Get new pop rivets and yank out the old with whatever works. Pliers, flat blades. I do hope you got t bolt clamps.

 

yes, do not put any pressure on the pop-it just turn it, you will get the feel for it over time, but if you dont put any pressure on it it should come out enough for you to grap it and pull it. It becomes easy overtime........but Im like you I work on it aaallll the time, i just removed the tray....lol I might sell it not sure.


SJ

 

well got a good bit through the install of the injen intake/intercooler piping set. Got the whole upper section and drivers side lower pieces connected. Got the intake pipe connected to the turbo, but the is no way the HKS BOV is going to fit between the intake and intercooler pipe. Damn I wish i had the MR DV now. I gotta track one down fast. Does anyone know if the EVO 8 DV and the 9 DV are dimensionally the same?

 

better watch out with those hks bovs...been seeing alot of problems with those...

 

The 8 and 9 BOV are the same dimensions.

The 8 BOV being a far inferior plastic piece.

 

I have a "special" tool I use that has a very sharp point at the end and I just jamb it underneath the screw head and pry down then use the screw driver and they come right out. I have it down to a science anymore, don't it quite a few times

I also keep new ones around so that if any are to bad I throw them away and pop in a new one...

I don't recommend ditching the undertray......it is very functional and worth having. Other than keeping your engine bay cleaner and stuff from bouncing up in. It also serves as a means to keep the air directed into the intercooler and radiator which is important. Once you get the hang of taking the plastic p.o.s fasteners out its not that bad - I can have mine off in a matter of minutes (takes me longer to get the car up in the air )

 

Man that sucks the IX dv hasn't shown yet? If you can get a VIII plastic pos dv for the time being you will be fine with it (temporarily of course)

If you don't come up with something by Sunday Evening - call me. I have a 1G dv with an adapter that will bolt into place and that will get you by. I used it on my 04 when i got it because the stock plastic one is junk I will be out of town till Sunday but can bring it back with me if you end up needing it.

 

Hey guys i got a quick question. So im going to hopefully change my oil this weekend and while i was at it, i was going to do a boost leak test. Not that i think anything is wrong, just cuz i will be bored... So anyways, some people recommend using an air pump that you plug into your cig lighter, or an air compressor. Well, i have no electric pump but i do have access to a compressor only bad thing is it is an industrial compressor. Question is this - at what psi should i be looking to test with? 30psi? I can probably put 30 psi into the system in the blink of an eye so im going to try to gauge at what point i will be ok. How long should i keep the pipes preasureized for?

 

Thanks trav..I will give it another week ..I am going to order the rexpeed front lip and replace it while the bumper is off. The lip on there now is beat to hell and half of the brackets that hold it on are missing. The whole left side was falling off.

 

A boost leak test is good to do......I do one every so often and usually i find a leak or 2 every time i do one. I always leak test it to 30psi, it will drop drastically to 25 and then start slowing down. As its dropping count how many seconds per psi its dropping. This is after you fix any audible leaks you will find.....so get your pump, when you hit 30 psi on your boost gauge shut it down and go under the hood and start listening. Wiggle pipes, etc and if everything is clear do a test again and count down how many seconds per psi it drops. If you get no audible hissing and the boost isn't dropping dramatically then your good to go.

My car loses 1 psi about every 4 seconds from 25-20 and then gets even slower, which is superb.