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Don't think rod bolts are worth the time?

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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 07:17 PM
  #16  
EvoDan2004's Avatar
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From: New Jersey
what are shops charging to install just rob bolts and what is the steps they need to take to do it right.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 08:30 PM
  #17  
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im unsure, but you should be able to install the rod bolts with the car in the air and doing each rod one at a time by turning the engine by hand.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 09:49 PM
  #18  
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From: Butt**** Nowhere
dropping the oil pan.... and moving everthing else out of the way..pretty self explanatory... just need to know proper torquing sequence and lbs
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 10:52 PM
  #19  
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Would someone put up the proper torque sequences and torque rates?

Thanks,
Josh
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 12:00 AM
  #20  
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From: Emerica
Originally Posted by hopper
im unsure, but you should be able to install the rod bolts with the car in the air and doing each rod one at a time by turning the engine by hand.
Agreed

Originally Posted by mitsuorder
Would someone put up the proper torque sequences and torque rates?
I believe you would want to follow the rod bolt manufacturer specification on this and not the stock amount indicated in the service manual.

Stock specification as listed below

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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 06:11 PM
  #21  
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You have to get the rods reconditoned when you put in the ARP rod bolts. You cant just put the new rod bolts in the factory rods and go, you will spin rod bearings. When you press in the ARP rod bolts in the rods it will cause them to get out of spec. I picked up a new set of stock pistons, con rods, rod bearings, and rings from someone that took them out of a new shortblock for a $100. I put ARP con rod bolts in the rods this is how I now this. I also use the ARP main stud kit . So my bottem end has a stock rotating assembly with ARP fasteners. My short term goal is to run mid 10's...
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