I have completed installing Buschur Stages 1-3 on my 2006 EVO IX MR and sure enough, I get BOV flutter in higher gears when I ease off the gas after building low amounts of boost (under 5psi). This is particularly annoying when following traffic up hills or trying to cruise on a highway. You can learn to 'drive around' this problem by releasing the gas pedal quickly or avoiding even the slightest boost, but this is not a good solution long term. The car can sometimes 'buck' fairly violently so it's something I plan on fixing. After fixing all my boost leaks, I'm actually not worried about boost leaking past the BOV at full boost, this I can deal with, it's the low boost flutter that I can't live with.

I have read that people see this occurring even with many different types of after-market BOV's, adjustable valves (and sometimes even stock setups - but I'm dubious about this). Has anyone had this problem and really fixed it?

After reading this thread - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=245601 I would like to try and find a shop that can weld a nipple on my LICP. I don't want to screw in an adapter and have it blow out, and I don't have the experience to weld myself.

Does anyone know of a shop in the local (Redmond, WA) area that could perform this modification for me?

Thanks,

Andy.

 

Why not just tap the DV directly into the turbo outlet nipple?

 

An aftermarket LICP, like Burshur's doesn't have a nipple on the turbo outlet, you split the wastegate AND the BOV from the line that originally only connected to the BOV.

 

Tapeworn,

What a great topic you posted. I ran into the same issue on my Eclipse GSX 2-3 weeks ago. I installed a brand new Evo III turbo which amaizingly did not come with a feeding nipple on the LICP nor on the compressor side.
The 2G installation kit lacked of nipple on the LICP(J pipe ) as well.

I figured that I could tap the vacuum/boost line to the same line that feed the BOV. So I did that and the boost was very very erratic. It was so bad that it made me recheck all the lines and even dissambled the MBC.

I gave up and went to a fabrication shop to custom built a nipple. This nipple cpletely stabilized my boost to a steady output. I am very very happy that I took the LICP to have it weld a nipple, not only it fix my problem but I also located the nipple in the most acceesible spot posible.


I will post a picture tomorrow.

Carlos

 

Thanks Carlos, good to hear this solution worked for you. I figure it can't do any harm at all, it can only help, so I want to try it, if I can find someone to do the welding.

In my case I have a Greddy boost controller that should not be cycling it's boost control valve until at least 15psi, so I don't see how it being t'ed off the BOV vacuum line affects flutter at low PSI's. If you have a manual boost control bleed valve, then I can understand having a 'leak' in the same line as the BOV may cause these problems.

Andy

 

I know WorldOne has a shop in Redmond. Maybe Speedware?

 

pina motorsports in kent would be able to do it

 

Even a muffler shop could do the job. Just drill a hole, put in the nipple, take it down to the local muffler shop, and get it welded.

 

great topic...i am having the same problem and just thought it was because i was an idiot because i could "drive around it" at times". Now that I have seen this I am very interested in wrxtoevo's pic. Please post when u get a chance. Also tapeworm (great name btw) if you decide to do this let me know if it works as well for you as wrxtoevo

Thanks guys

 

WorldOne was in Seattle...now they are in Kent. Speedware is indeed in redmond...but some members on the board have had bad experiences with their work.

 

There are a couple of things you could try. If you want to stick with the LICP fix, it depends on wheter your LICP is aluminum or steel. Most places (e.g. muffler shop) will be able to weld steel for you, not everybody is equipped to weld aluminum. However, there are "cold weld" solutions if you want to DIY. You can use JB Weld for both materials, or "weld" aluminum with a propane torch and this stuff:
http://durafix.com/

Another way to eliminate BOV flutter is to use an electronic trigger valve for the BOV, or replace the BOV with an electronic controlled one altogether:
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2181/article.html
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2188/article.html

 

Get one off these and install it on the first coupler. I have used it and it works great.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

 

Great suggestions guys. I really like the electronic BOV controller - it would be great if they made this as a ready made kit. I can't find the book that contains the project on Amazon though, but the logic and idea are sound.

I like the Quick Tap as well - If I get desperate and can't find anyone to weld a nipple I may give that a go.

Another person suggested swapping the nice stock IX metal BOV for a crappy 1st Gen plastic BOV (Bushur sells them for $140). Apparently these mount to the UICP much better and eliminate the flutter. Strangely enough there are a number of pictures on Bushur's site that show these valves in use on their own cars, so they may not recommend this fix, but they use it themselves!

I'm first going to remove the bov from the car and test it with a hand vacuum pump, I still don't understand why it's opening at high load / slight throttle openings - maybe it's dirty, bent or broken....

Andy.

 

I too have been having the low boost flutter.

I have a 1gen bov crushed by dejol tool and have their leak stop kit as well. I got lots of flutter with the mbc line connected to the bov source.

I drilled and tapped a fitting on the uicp (to make the line as short as possible, and easier to access than the licp) and this completly fixed my problem.

So if you dont want to mess with the licp, you could simply just drill and tap a fitting to the uicp and your set. You dont have to worry about welding the fitting on, but for piece of mind you could put some jb weld on it...

 

too bad! My Dad plan to Buy TIG weld machine Ac/Dc next month.. for my Hot rod and custom works business..