Maybe take the time to look at JIC, very nice, low cost. But im biased

 

JIC I believe have a very short travel range, which is a problem up here in the NW. Our roads are pretty damn rough, especially where I-5 goes thru Seattle, the seismic joints can give a good 6" of suspension travel just commuting.

 

I think you'll be happy with either KW V3's, or Ohlins. It is nice to see DTM run the Stance stuff, but they have few other data points.

 

Very timely discussion as suspension is next on my list of things to do.

Like GTisRule, my evo is driven daily and tracked. I want to lower the car a bit to get the CG down, reduce body roll, and tighten up the dynamic behavior. I am very wary of stiffer springs/shocks that increase the front too much leading to gross understeer. The stock car is decent and I don't want to mess it up.

jid2@[BINARY}, I'll take you up on the offer of a ride when you get your car put back together!

 

ZZYZX IMHO seems to be good coilovers - it takes into account the two most important part in a coilover - the damper, and the coils.

Those Koni dampers are more than capable of anything you can throw at them (just look at how many people actually use them), Easy rebuildability. Moreover, he pairs them up with high quality springs (Swifts, or Hypercoils)

Which part are you worried about? the welding on the ears? The camber adjustment setup? The needle bearings?

In regards to the needle bearings, those are much tougher than what some of the other coilover manufacturers (cough Tein - cough - they use that crap plastic bearing that wears down easily) give you with their product.

Are you worried about the strut body not being made of stainless steel? (Considering you live in Washington and snow sucks - might be valid)

Or are you worried about the camber mechansim? IMO, that camber mechanism is much more secure than what most people do (use camber bolts). There's no vertical play with that setup, the bolt is the same size heightwise as the slots. Camber bolts are usually smaller in diamater than the slots in the struts / coilovers. I've noticed that if you don't get them gorilla tight, they have the habit of shifting when you run over that pothole.

Worried about the welding on the ears?

Only thing I don't like about those coilovers is the fact that it's not available now, and the pricing is too high for street coils.

Might want to chime in on this thread - maybe somebody will build us a coilover that we want

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=365631

You guys are like me, OHLINS are overkill for our needs (along with the Variant 3's). I'd rather spend the $$$ saved on better tires, brakes and etc which improves the car overall performance.

 

The intro level of the Zzyzx use a hollow tube with the koni insert which is very similar to VW setups that I'm extremely familiar with. I have full adjustable Koni's on the GTI, and they are absolutely beautiful. BUT, using front inserts, the top 'bolt' for a lack of a better term on the VW's are notorious for loosening up while driving causing the strut to rattle up and down inside the tube. The 'advanced' Zzyzx look really good actually, I just would like camber plates versus the top bolt adjustment for the shear fact of simplicity to adjust camber at the track. Adjusting the factory camber bolt is extremely difficult to get them even (left to right side), when using a cam bolt to an alignment mark on the bolt head. Not to mention they have a tendency to wander when you tighten them, not to mention as you did, the pothole wander from the camber bolts shifting. Zzyzx also anadized housings which as long as you don't scratch them shouldn't rust.

All in all, the camber adjustment more than anything would be the only reason I'd look elsewhere for coilovers. In 2.5 years when the car's paid for, it's going to be a track only car, so I only want to invest once in coilovers, hence why I lean toward the KWv3's. I'd never get my money out of the Flag-L's, they're definately out of the question unless a set fell into my lap.

 

Thanks, I undertstand what you mean. I'm eyeing those coilovers and will ask around what mechanisms he has in place to prevent the end caps from loosening. It would have been cool if the top cap was welded in place (obviously, with a hole on said cap for for the shaft to go through, so that you only have to worry about the bottom cap)

 

oh yeah Washington dont use Salt on road like east coast to get rust..

Jason.. maybe u should text me and ill give u ride in my Evo with KW V3 and see how u feel

 

It turns out those Gerrard spec Ohlins were based on the flag series, so they're 2 way adjustable. I sent them paypal last night considering they're 1/2 the retail price for new... I just couldn't pass that up, I'd be dumb....

 

nice! good choose jason! I bet u will love ur ohlin!

 

Ohlins installed and street aligned today, car is definitely more bouncy, but I need more seat time still.... No weight shift on gas or braking hard now too... Weight transfer's gonna be soooo much better on corner transitions..

 

I have Endura-Tech coilovers on my Evo. I have had them on for over two years now without any issues or rust. I autocross/drag race/hill climb on mine and love them. I can turn them down a little for a very comfortable DD ride, or turn them up for racing. I would highly recommend them. If you contact them ask for Justin.
http://www.endura-tech.com/


Edit. Posted that and just noticed you bought coilovers already.

 

I have Ohlins Flag-L Coilovers with less than 7K miles on them for sale for $2000 plus shipping and paypal fees. PM me if anyone is interested !

 

Don't get JIC anything. They crack a lot from different forums I'm on.

I say Robispec KW3.