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Feeler: 1997 Eclipse GSX
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Glastonbury, CT / Boston, MA
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Feeler: 1997 Eclipse GSX
I think its about that time, I'm about to be graduating from college and starting a full time job. I am still having problems with the car and its becoming very time consuming and expensive. I am looking to cut my losses and start saving up for an evo X.
I am the 3rd owner on this car, and the car was almost completely stock when I got it minus the suspension and a blow off valve.
Almost everything I have purchased for the car was bought BRAND NEW, turbo, fmic, ic piping, intake, etc. I have receipts online for almost everything through ExtremePSI. My friend and I have hundreds of work hours into this car and I would really like to see it go to someone who will appreciate it. We spent hours 2 summers ago just repairing rust spots and making it a lot better.
Here are the details:
Engine:
6 bolt swap
92 NT pistons (9.0:1 compression)/1g rods
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
OEM MLS headgasket
1g head
BC 272/272 Cams
Unorthodox Racing Crank Pulley
90 Oil Filter Housing
B&M Oil Cooler w/ SS lines
Exhaust/Turbo
Evo III Big 16g Turbo
Evo III Manifold tapped for EGT
JM Fab SS Heat Shield
Punishment Racing o2 Housing w/ External Dump
Tial 38mm WG
Hallman MBC
Apexi Downpipe
Vibrant 3" High Flow Cat
Vibrant 3" Resonator
Custom 3" Cat back w/ Magnaflow 3" muffler
Intake
Dejon Tool Intake w/ K&N filter
Dejon Tool UICP
Custom 2.5" IC piping to FMIC
Greddy Type-RS BOV
Extreme PSI J Pipe
ETS 25x10x3.0" Race FMIC (980CFM/650hp)
Fuel
Evo VIII 560cc Injectors
Aeromotive AFPR w/ SS lines to rail and from filter to rail
Walboro 255LPH w/ pump rewire
Cooling
Punishment Racing Aluminum Radiator
2 12" Slim fans wired into stock harness
Mishimoto 1.3bar Radiator cap
Drivetrain
Fidanza 3.2 Clutch
Fidanza Flywheel
B&M Short Shifter
Brass Shifter Bushings in Engine
LSD rear end (came out of a 95 GSX with 140,000miles)
Electrical
DSMLink v2
AEM Wideband tapped into rear o2
Prosport Boost Gauge
Prosport EGT Gauge
Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge
Suspension/Brakes/Exterior
Tokico Strut/Spring Combo
Drilled/Slotted rotors w/ ceramic pads
Stock 17" Wheels
Yokohama AVS ES100 225/45R17 Summer Tires (75% Tread)
Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50 215/45R17 Winter Tires (99% Tread, no more than 100 miles on them) - needs a set of 17's though.
8000k HIDs
Fluids
10w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil in Engine (broken in with Valvoline 10w-30 until 1500 miles)
75w-90 Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil in the Transfer Case/Rear Diff
Redline MT-90 in the Tranny
I'm probably forgetting a lot of other things, I have so many extra parts as well that I can throw in too. Extra manifolds, o2 housings, drive shaft, doors, etc.
Pictures:
If you need anymore pictures my photo bucket album has hundreds and some videos.
The engine runs pretty good, it needs to be tuned further but it was tuned enough for me to get around to and from Boston several times. I was able to get 25mpg during these trips. It's very smooth and pretty quiet on the highway.
The head was just recently machined to fix a burnt valve, compression is around 170psi across all 4 cylinders. All the timing components were new when assembling the motor.
A/C was just recharged and blows ice cold
There are a few problems with the car right now, it needs to be tuned more so its smoother through the RPM's. The main problem right now is when the car warms up it becomes very hard to put into gear in first. It seems as if 2nd and 3rd are very notchy when shifting when its warm. This just started happening lately.
There is a problem when we initially did the swap where the car will not start by completely turning the key. We could not figure out the problem so I wired in a push start. The push start only works with the key in the ignition in the on position.
The car's paint looked like crap when I got it so I did a temporary solution with rustoleum, it looks good from far way but in some spots it doesn't up close. The rear passengers wheel's paint is chipping but I can fix that before the sale.
I wanted to convert the interior from gray to black and painted the interior plastics with duplicolor vinyl paint. It all looks pretty good but I didn't completely finish, I can finish that too before any sale.
The power steering pump is leaking a bit and probably should be replaced as it makes the belt squeal when the car is cold. I can replace that as well.
I don't care what people have to say about the price, I have way too much money and time invested in this car to take any more of a loss.
I am looking for $6000 FIRM, you can take pretty much whatever extra I have in my garage in related parts. I'd strongly prefer not to part it out but in a few months if I have to I may.
Any questions let me know.
I am the 3rd owner on this car, and the car was almost completely stock when I got it minus the suspension and a blow off valve.
Almost everything I have purchased for the car was bought BRAND NEW, turbo, fmic, ic piping, intake, etc. I have receipts online for almost everything through ExtremePSI. My friend and I have hundreds of work hours into this car and I would really like to see it go to someone who will appreciate it. We spent hours 2 summers ago just repairing rust spots and making it a lot better.
Here are the details:
Engine:
6 bolt swap
92 NT pistons (9.0:1 compression)/1g rods
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
OEM MLS headgasket
1g head
BC 272/272 Cams
Unorthodox Racing Crank Pulley
90 Oil Filter Housing
B&M Oil Cooler w/ SS lines
Exhaust/Turbo
Evo III Big 16g Turbo
Evo III Manifold tapped for EGT
JM Fab SS Heat Shield
Punishment Racing o2 Housing w/ External Dump
Tial 38mm WG
Hallman MBC
Apexi Downpipe
Vibrant 3" High Flow Cat
Vibrant 3" Resonator
Custom 3" Cat back w/ Magnaflow 3" muffler
Intake
Dejon Tool Intake w/ K&N filter
Dejon Tool UICP
Custom 2.5" IC piping to FMIC
Greddy Type-RS BOV
Extreme PSI J Pipe
ETS 25x10x3.0" Race FMIC (980CFM/650hp)
Fuel
Evo VIII 560cc Injectors
Aeromotive AFPR w/ SS lines to rail and from filter to rail
Walboro 255LPH w/ pump rewire
Cooling
Punishment Racing Aluminum Radiator
2 12" Slim fans wired into stock harness
Mishimoto 1.3bar Radiator cap
Drivetrain
Fidanza 3.2 Clutch
Fidanza Flywheel
B&M Short Shifter
Brass Shifter Bushings in Engine
LSD rear end (came out of a 95 GSX with 140,000miles)
Electrical
DSMLink v2
AEM Wideband tapped into rear o2
Prosport Boost Gauge
Prosport EGT Gauge
Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge
Suspension/Brakes/Exterior
Tokico Strut/Spring Combo
Drilled/Slotted rotors w/ ceramic pads
Stock 17" Wheels
Yokohama AVS ES100 225/45R17 Summer Tires (75% Tread)
Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50 215/45R17 Winter Tires (99% Tread, no more than 100 miles on them) - needs a set of 17's though.
8000k HIDs
Fluids
10w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil in Engine (broken in with Valvoline 10w-30 until 1500 miles)
75w-90 Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil in the Transfer Case/Rear Diff
Redline MT-90 in the Tranny
I'm probably forgetting a lot of other things, I have so many extra parts as well that I can throw in too. Extra manifolds, o2 housings, drive shaft, doors, etc.
Pictures:
If you need anymore pictures my photo bucket album has hundreds and some videos.
The engine runs pretty good, it needs to be tuned further but it was tuned enough for me to get around to and from Boston several times. I was able to get 25mpg during these trips. It's very smooth and pretty quiet on the highway.
The head was just recently machined to fix a burnt valve, compression is around 170psi across all 4 cylinders. All the timing components were new when assembling the motor.
A/C was just recharged and blows ice cold
There are a few problems with the car right now, it needs to be tuned more so its smoother through the RPM's. The main problem right now is when the car warms up it becomes very hard to put into gear in first. It seems as if 2nd and 3rd are very notchy when shifting when its warm. This just started happening lately.
There is a problem when we initially did the swap where the car will not start by completely turning the key. We could not figure out the problem so I wired in a push start. The push start only works with the key in the ignition in the on position.
The car's paint looked like crap when I got it so I did a temporary solution with rustoleum, it looks good from far way but in some spots it doesn't up close. The rear passengers wheel's paint is chipping but I can fix that before the sale.
I wanted to convert the interior from gray to black and painted the interior plastics with duplicolor vinyl paint. It all looks pretty good but I didn't completely finish, I can finish that too before any sale.
The power steering pump is leaking a bit and probably should be replaced as it makes the belt squeal when the car is cold. I can replace that as well.
I don't care what people have to say about the price, I have way too much money and time invested in this car to take any more of a loss.
I am looking for $6000 FIRM, you can take pretty much whatever extra I have in my garage in related parts. I'd strongly prefer not to part it out but in a few months if I have to I may.
Any questions let me know.
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bosox28
For Sale - Wheels / Tires
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Jan 27, 2009 05:22 PM